Swollen Ford Lug nuts

[MHarryE]

YouTube videos - Rainman Ray is an auto mechanic who has had these come into his shop several times, every brand you can think of. The nuts are usually stripped away by owners having tried to remove. He always ends up having to drill out the studs to thread diameter, then break off the remaining nut, press out the studs and replace. When I saw the guys from Big Bang Theory confront a frozen lug nut on a van, I didn't think it was possible to get them stuck this bad but apparently people run into it. Reading through this thread, heating appears to be the easiest if penetrating oil won't work. So the guy's were not out of line using thermite to heat the nut but unfortunately burned up their van. That sucks.

 

[Kschwennsen]

all else fails, nut splitter.

 

[LD1]

Find a friend with an induction tool. You could always buy one, but they are around $400. Mine is a “Bolt Buster”. You wrap the insulated wire coils around the nut or bolt and push the button and within about 30 seconds it heats the bolt red hot. To double the effect spray brake cleaner on the red hot bolt or nut to rapidly cool it down. Usually that breaks any corrosion bond. The bolts or nuts are of course toasted after that and go in the scrap metal pile because any tempering is gone.

I restore antique tractors. It works every time it’s tried

Good method....but Id avoid brake clean. Or make sure its non-chlorinated

 

[bobrossi]

Anyone else deal with this! Holy swollen nut batman!!! I have a 2014 F-150 and my buddy and I went to do a rear brake job today. Out of the 12 rear nuts, we could only remove 6. That's with trying PB blaster, using a 1200 ft/lb pneumatic impact wrench, 20V Dewalt impact wrench and (3) 1/2" breaker bars with 3' cheater bar (broke all three breaker bars), and trying a micro butane torch. WTF??? We still never removed both rear tires. If I was on the side of the road with a flat and ran into this issue, I probably would have set fire to the dang thing. WOW! I can't believe the level of effort we've made and still not succeeded. Has anyone else gone through this? What was the solution? I'm about to drill all the studs and snap them off, then replace them.

I also had this happen on my 2013 F-150. Did everything you did. Had 2 I could not get off. I was only trying to rotate the tires, so I took it to my tire dealer and watched in the window, expecting to laugh when he couldn’t get them off either, BUT his impact took them right off. I have a 3/4” pneumatic that couldn’t them off yet his 1/2” took them right off. No idea why but maybe your tire guy can loosen them for you for a small fee.

 

[Smitty62]

Long ago, back in the 1970's, we had same issue deep in the woods on a hunting trip. Luckily we had a 4-way lug wrench and a camp axe. With pressure on the 4-way someone else hit the opposite side of it and after much effort we got them off and flat tire changed. Basically same way that this was resolved only different tools used. Also because of that I always put never seize on the lugs to avoid future problems.

 

[Haasman]

I will often try to just "slightly" tighten a lug nut before trying to remove them. Seems to work well.

 

[sixdogs]

I recall my owner's manuals over the years telling me not to lube threads on wheel studs. Suppose anti-seize would get the same protection?

 

[Haasman]

i believe the "no lube threads on wheel nut studs" was from false readings when torquing.

 

[Gord Baker]

The problem is not so much the threads but the corrosive bond of the lug nut cover (SS) to the Alloy wheel.
If you can, buy a Deep Impact quality six sided socket 1/2mm larger than required size and use it on a 3/4" Air Impact gun like they use at Truck repair places. I put never~seize™ on the tapered portion of the wheel where the lug nut seats when I change them.
If the wrench is slipping use a serious carbide tipped Hole saw to nip off the end of the SS cover of the nut, then chisel the cover off.

 

[Gord Baker]

I recall my owner's manuals over the years telling me not to lube threads on wheel studs. Suppose anti-seize would get the same protection?

Never lube the threads. They are not the problem.

 

[Chewwy]

Early 70 Mopars. Passenger side. Theory is, Rotation of tire on that side would cause big nuts to loosen.

Also included Mopars from the 50s and 60s. Never worked on any older than that but have heard Chrysler started this in the 30s.

 

[Chewwy]

I also had this happen on my 2013 F-150. Did everything you did. Had 2 I could not get off. I was only trying to rotate the tires, so I took it to my tire dealer and watched in the window, expecting to laugh when he couldn’t get them off either, BUT his impact took them right off. I have a 3/4” pneumatic that couldn’t them off yet his 1/2” took them right off. No idea why but maybe your tire guy can loosen them for you for a small fee.

The air pressure supplied to the impact tool has a significant affect on its cabability. Likely the tire dealers impact tool was operating at greater pressure.

 

[RandyT]

Good method....but Id avoid brake clean. Or make sure its non-chlorinated

Definitely want to avoid brake cleaner. The chlorinated stuff will cause some nasty stuff to happen, and I use the non-chlorinated stuff for engine starter. So in the case of brake cleaner you are are either using something that will form phosgene gas, or is flammable around heat sources.

 

[LittleBill21]

The air pressure supplied to the impact tool has a significant affect on its cabability. Likely the tire dealers impact tool was operating at greater pressure.

actually the air volume means a ton more then air pressure. you can do 200 psi through a straw, still won't loosen a barbie doll car wheel.

 

[coast40]

Other than Deep Creek, the next solution without breaking the lug off with the nut is using an angle grinder. It's a little chore, but careful cutting will get the nut off enough to split it in half exposing the threads. When I get 'close enough' a screw driver to pry the nut apart works.

Yes, I've owned Dodge's like this. Those cheap lug nut chrome covers trap in moisture on the steel nut that is totally untreated, thus it swells with rust inside. Deep Creep works when it can get into that tight area and soaks into that rust. It's a gamble every time I come across this event.

There are a few companies that offer SOLID replacements. Those may not be fully chromed, but they are polished and treated. Better than the 2 piece OE versions.

I went with McGard nuts to replace the stainless wrapped nuts on my Dodge. I got tired of nuts getting stuck in the socket. USA made and practically guaranteed not to rust.

 

[Farmer495]

As mentioned, two issues:

1) The cheapo two piece lug nuts have the chrome cover swell and normal socket won't fit. Use bigger socket/half size, you can also knock the chrome off and expose the smaller nut inside.

I replaced all my lug nuts with one piece ones......

2) The lug nut is not seized on the threads, the steel lug nut is fused to the aluminum rim, soak with penetrating oil then hit with impact might do it. I always put lube on the mating surfaces. I change rims twice a year.

 

[panamaguy]

Anyone else deal with this! Holy swollen nut batman!!! I have a 2014 F-150 and my buddy and I went to do a rear brake job today. Out of the 12 rear nuts, we could only remove 6. That's with trying PB blaster, using a 1200 ft/lb pneumatic impact wrench, 20V Dewalt impact wrench and (3) 1/2" breaker bars with 3' cheater bar (broke all three breaker bars), and trying a micro butane torch. WTF??? We still never removed both rear tires. If I was on the side of the road with a flat and ran into this issue, I probably would have set fire to the dang thing. WOW! I can't believe the level of effort we've made and still not succeeded. Has anyone else gone through this? What was the solution? I'm about to drill all the studs and snap them off, then replace them.

Have not read all the replies but the small torch is not your friend. You need a big one that is fast at heating the lug nut before the stud gets hot. With a small one the time to heat is too long and the stud is absorbing the heat also thus expanding. A friend with a Ford noticed that on his and ordered a set of nuts off Amazon so he would never have that problem in the future. A screw up by Ford. Maybe you folks up north will be lucky enough to get the Ranger with the diesel like we get 4 or 5 cylinder. Most go for the 5 with a 6 speed auto and 30 mpg. Beautiful truck with tons of power

 

[check]

I recently had to try and help a newish Ram and a Jeep owner on the side of the road trying to get their swollen lug nuts off to change a tire. So it's not just Ford's.

My friend just got uncoated steel replacement nuts for his F150 and that's what I'll do if I keep mine past warranty.

That’s what I did on my 2016 F150.

 

[Mcdust]

Apparently, this is a known issue, and a class action lawsuit was filed against Ford. Man, this is ridiculous trying to remove these blooming things! Apparently, they're 2-part lug nuts with a steel nut and aluminum over wrap. The aluminum swells and galls against the alloy rim. Good grief man, what a PITA! Drilling is looking like my only option.

I learned my lesson years ago.

whenever I change tires (ie: summer to winter tires), I spray a liberal amount of WD40 on both the hub and studs (lug nut threads) before putting the tire back on. Never had any problems since.

breaker bar works though in situations like this; just tap/hit the breaker bar with a 10 lb sledge hammer to break the bond. Usually works.

I have an '04 Dakota with factory alloys and chromed steel lug nuts, always hand tightened to 80lbs and never had a problem. A friend got me a new set of summer tires and for the first time the nuts would not come off. we got the biggest guy there to go at the breaker bar with a 3 foot cheeter and he was able to get them, with a bang. I think the bang would have been the bar breaking if it weren't snap-on the way it was bending. 3 weeks later a snow was forecast so I went to mount the plow rims and tires figuring they'd gun right off. Some did but a few were stuck again and required breaker and cheater. It couldn't be corrosion in 3 weeks. My two mechanic friends and us shade tree guys were stumped so I put the steel winter rims on and ordered new factory lug nuts for the spring. ( i took a nut to the grinder and they are not wrapped) I think the faces of the nuts are binding to the rim but why now after years of trouble free use?
Baffled in Mass.

 

[gsganzer]

I have an '04 Dakota with factory alloys and chromed steel lug nuts, always hand tightened to 80lbs and never had a problem. A friend got me a new set of summer tires and for the first time the nuts would not come off. we got the biggest guy there to go at the breaker bar with a 3 foot cheeter and he was able to get them, with a bang. I think the bang would have been the bar breaking if it weren't snap-on the way it was bending. 3 weeks later a snow was forecast so I went to mount the plow rims and tires figuring they'd gun right off. Some did but a few were stuck again and required breaker and cheater. It couldn't be corrosion in 3 weeks. My two mechanic friends and us shade tree guys were stumped so I put the steel winter rims on and ordered new factory lug nuts for the spring. ( i took a nut to the grinder and they are not wrapped) I think the faces of the nuts are binding to the rim but why now after years of trouble free use?
Baffled in Mass.

It isn't corrosion. Best I can tell is it's galling between the rim and the nut. It might be that after a few times of putting the rims on, you work through the anodized layer of the rim and then you're subject to galling. That's why I think the best thing to do might be to put neverseize on the nut face where it contacts the rim.