Tires Swapping Rear Tires Side to Side

[tinsnip]

Greetings and happy holidays!

I'm about to increase the spread on the rear tires of my 4120 (adding chains). I'm pretty clear on most of the process to jack, block, stabilize the tractor prior to removing the wheels. But here's my dumb question: What's the best method for getting the wheel off of the lugs? and; once the two tires have been switched to the opposite sides: what's the best method for getting the wheels up on the lugs again?

I'm thinking about trying to use a long pry bar under the tire to both lift it off the lugs and then put it back on. What are the chances that will work? I will have someone with me to help stabilize the tires. They're R4s, loaded and pretty heavy.

Any thoughts on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Tim

 

[brin]

If you have a hand cart dolly...with a long handle you could roll the tire over and onto the dolly and while your helper stabalized the tire you would pull back on the handle and lift it up and roll the dolly forward to match it up and set it on lug bolts..I have used a hand cart for leverage like that before..

Another thing you could do ...if you have a floor jack on wheels you could roll the tire over to it next to the side of the tractor you want to put the tire on and use a ramp of scrap wood - roll the tire up on the wheeled floor jack and move it over to the lug bolts jack it up and maneuver it to match it up to lug bolts move the jack forward and set it...that should work too..

 

[tinsnip]

That's an excellent idea! I might just give that a try. Thanks.

 

[JB4310]

The trick is only jack the machine up so the tires are just off the ground, not to high, maybe 1/4".
If they weren't loaded then it's just hand work for that size machine, since they are loaded then you do have to be careful, coming off still should be able to do by hand, pulling up on the top of the wheel to clear the studs. if they wont budge, then a pry bar will do the trick like you said.
To get them on, you will need leverage to lift them, do it reverse of removal, try and get the top stud on first then the bottom studs will fall in.
That's how I do it any way.

IMPORTANT: When ever handling the tires after the nuts are removed, try and keep it as plumb as possible, so you wont be fighting the extra gravity of it trying to lay over. (on your leg would be worst case!)

For bigger equipment they make all kinds of specialty lifting tools, but you should be able to handle this job especially with extra hands.

Google Image Result for http://www.gardenofspeedin.com/dollies/gojack.jpg

One of these things would be sweet though!

JB.

 

[tinsnip]

Thanks JB, that's what I needed to hear. I have a feeling I'm imagining this to be more complicated than it really is. We'll take it slow and safe.

As for those cool floor jacks... Oh yeah, that would be nice. But first I'd have to install a floor in my barn as smooth as the one in the pictures of the jacks. Starting to get a little pricey.

 

[brin]

Thanks JB, that's what I needed to hear. I have a feeling I'm imagining this to be more complicated than it really is. We'll take it slow and safe.

As for those cool floor jacks... Oh yeah, that would be nice. But first I'd have to install a floor in my barn as smooth as the one in the pictures of the jacks. Starting to get a little pricey.

I have used a floor jack like this on a dirt floor in a barn many..many times but whether you use a floor jack, hand truck or pry bar , with a dirt floor I suggest you place a piece of plywood or something down where you are going to use which ever one you choose so it won't dig into the dirt instead of give you the leverage and lift you are looking for.
not pricey at all...Big Red 2.5 Ton SUV Quick Lift Service Floor Jack - 1160798 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[tinsnip]

Thanks brin. I should have been more clear, the floor in my barn is 3" thick hemlock. The boards have cupped a bit and the gaps between them are varied and wide. Running small wheels over them is a challenge. But since I live on the side of a hill, the barn floor is about the only level place I've got. This pic should give you some idea, although it doesn't show the height differences.

 

[JB4310]

As for those cool floor jacks... Oh yeah, that would be nice. But first I'd have to install a floor in my barn as smooth as the one in the pictures of the jacks. Starting to get a little pricey.

Nice chain tensioner!

Though it would work to move a single tire/wheel.
Those go jacks are used in auto shops, not for changing tires but for moving whole cars around, they push them in next to the tire and pump the foot pedal a couple of times which lifts the tire and car off the floor a bit, put one on all four tires and they can spin the car around on a dime, or tuck it in a corner out of the way.

It would be hard to justify the cost for them unless they made you money

JB.

 

[JimmyDee]

Since I am new to this kinda thing, I'll ask your forgivness in advance if this is not what you are asking. I just finished increasing the width of my 4520 and all I did was unbolt the wheel from the rim and switch sides with the rims/tires. I did a lot of head scratching and this seemed to be the best solo approach since I did not have to remove the hubs. Actually gained about 10" total in width, if you like I could give you an exact measurment of the finished product. It changed the whole handling attitude of my 4520 after the widening. I won't bore you with the details unless this approach is something that you would like to try, just let me know and good luck with whatever you do....Jim

 

[radman1]

I think you need to rethink how you are going to swap them. Loaded tires of that size are really heavy and hard to manage. If you lose control and start to fall, the swing is weight is rapid and dangerous. We change tire duals on large tractors that are on very large rims but not loaded. They can be an accident waiting to happen. We use skid steer pallet forks or forklift. Can lift directly on the rim with the forks, sling the tire with a strap, or put the forks under the tire and lift. Can you use an engine stand, or over head hoist?

 

[radman1]

Based on the tire size of 17.5x24 rear tire and filled with 75% water, the weight is about 450 lbs/tire. If using calcium chloride the weight is near 650-700 lbs. You need to rethink how you are going to handle that weight. This is not a job for couple of novices. If you have to, take it somewhere and pay them to swap the tires.

 

[JB4310]

Based on the tire size of 17.5x24 rear tire and filled with 75% water, the weight is about 450 lbs/tire. If using calcium chloride the weight is near 650-700 lbs. You need to rethink how you are going to handle that weight. This is not a job for couple of novices. If you have to, take it somewhere and pay them to swap the tires.

Well you scared me, I didn't realize a small CUT's loaded tires could weigh that much!

I would still do it myself, but would not recommend it to someone else who doesn't have complete confidence in their ability to control/balance such weight manually. Or the reflexes and experience to know when you've lost control and let it go, and get the heck out of the way

Probably safer to do it outside where it would be less confined (no space constraints). And if you had another tractor you could maneuver around using the 3 pt's lift ability to help.

.

 

[Glen Watkins]

I was thinking of getting rear tire chains and swapping tires side to side as well or was also thinking of going with tire chains on the front only to see how much it helps. I put vbar chains on my 4wd ATV front tires and it made a world of difference with being able to hold/steer ATV while plowing snow. Anyone got any experience with chains on the front only of MFWD R4 tractor? Sorry for the hijack but was also wondering how much of a job it is to swap rears? I have the same setup as you but also with rear weights to wrestle as well!

 

[JimmyDee]

Since I am new to this kinda thing, I'll ask your forgivness in advance if this is not what you are asking. I just finished increasing the width of my 4520 and all I did was unbolt the wheel from the rim and switch sides with the rims/tires. I did a lot of head scratching and this seemed to be the best solo approach since I did not have to remove the hubs. Actually gained about 10" total in width, if you like I could give you an exact measurment of the finished product. It changed the whole handling attitude of my 4520 after the widening. I won't bore you with the details unless this approach is something that you would like to try, just let me know and good luck with whatever you do....Jim

Actually should have said, "unbolted the rim & tire from the center hub/wheel and I am calling the center hub, the thing with the weights mounted to it." In doing this I did not have to remove any wheel weights.
It made a lot of sense to me when I read it before hitting 'Submit Reply', when reading it the next day, it made no sense.........sorry for the confusion.

 

[tinsnip]

Success! I ended up swapping the tires side-to-side in the snow-covered dooryard in front of the barn. My neighbor brought his tractor over and we stood around discussing the pros and cons of various methods. Finally, we just jacked it up and unbolted the wheels from the axels, one at a time.

With the help of a long prybar we got them off and found it pretty manageable to (slowly) roll the tires to the opposite side. Jockeyed them into position and with the prybar again found it fairly easy to align the bolts. The whole process took maybe an hour and a half. Some of that time was standing and looking and scratching our chins, but overall I think we did pretty well. We preferred slow and safe to anything else.

Thanks to everyone who responded. The various opinions of how to proceed have all matched my own at one point or another and helped me to finally get it done safely and relatively easily.

With the new clearance in the back (almost 4 inches on each side!), my chains are on and it makes a huge difference in traction. I am ready now! Thanks again.

Tim

 

[JB4310]

Success! I ended up swapping the tires side-to-side in the snow-covered dooryard in front of the barn. My neighbor brought his tractor over and we stood around discussing the pros and cons of various methods. Finally, we just jacked it up and unbolted the wheels from the axels, one at a time.
Tim

Glad it worked out and to hear back from you, I've been anxiously watching this thread, getting worried you were trapped out in the barn with a heavy tire on on your leg

Slow and steady always wins.

jb

 

[tinsnip]

Another follow up after widening the stance and adding chains. The wider wheel base has made an enormous difference in stability. Most of my property in on a slope and before widening the wheels I had some serious clenching moments. Now it's a whole new ballgame. With the new chains we were able to make a road into the woods for cutting and hauling the Pine we've been harvesting for about a month. Even when we had snow, there was virtually no place the tractor wouldn't go.

Here's a shot from earlier in the project and one showing the current progress. We're primarily cutting timbers for a timber frame building and the sawmill can handle a 24 foot log without turning it. But we need 3, 26-footers and the mill operator was some impressed that the 4120 could pick the entire log to place it on the mill. Pretty impressive performance for a compact.