Surge brake actuator

JJZ 109 · Nov 23, 2012

I have a surge brake coupler on a JLG T-350 tow behind boom lift that looks very similar to this:

The lift is being used by one of my guys, so I can't scoot outside to look for a brand name or model number at the moment.

This thing has been nothing but trouble since I bought the lift a couple of years ago. No matter where we position the knob when backing, the coupler wants to roll under, then it becomes a real bear to unhook. Have to pull the truck forward with the lift's hand brake set, use pry bars, etc. The knurled knob above the sliding bolt is now busted off.
I'm looking to replace this coupler with something that's easier to work with and still have a functional surge brake. The unit weighs in at about #3400 so I want some semblance of brakes on the thing. In the preliminary stages of looking into something like this one.
Any of you old trailer towing pros have any suggestions for an actuator that's easier to work with than my current setup? I'm done using the lift for the season, so I've got all winter to come up with something more agreeable to work with.

Diamondpilot · Nov 23, 2012

I have towed well over 100 boat trailers with that very coupler and never really had any troubles. I think the major issue is you do not have a reverse lock out solenoid. Its a simple $25 device that mounts directly to the master cylinder output then the brake line mounts to it. It has two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to your center pin of your 7 pin round connector. That is your reverse lights. This way when you put the tow vehicle in reverse it activates and blocks the flow of hydraulic pressure.

Replacement Solenoid Valve for Titan Brake Actuators with Reverse Lockouts Titan Accessories and Parts T4748800

Chris

JJZ 109 · Nov 23, 2012

Diamondpilot said:
I have towed well over 100 boat trailers with that very coupler and never really had any troubles. I think the major issue is you do not have a reverse lock out solenoid. Its a simple $25 device that mounts directly to the master cylinder output then the brake line mounts to it. It has two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to your center pin of your 7 pin round connector. That is your reverse lights. This way when you put the tow vehicle in reverse it activates and blocks the flow of hydraulic pressure.

Replacement Solenoid Valve for Titan Brake Actuators with Reverse Lockouts Titan Accessories and Parts T4748800

Chris

Was hoping you'd jump in here, Chris. Didn't seem to matter whether I placed that knurled knob into the "back up" position or not before backing up. I really got to dislike that thing. Now that the knob is broken off, I need to figure out what to do next. I bookmarked your link for the next time that I see my lift. Maybe even with the busted knob I can use that solenoid valve. Probably easier (and definitely cheaper) than replacing the coupler.
One thing I didn't mention: There's only a 4 pin harness on the lift. Now what?

Diamondpilot · Nov 23, 2012

JJZ 109 said:
Was hoping you'd jump in here, Chris. Didn't seem to matter whether I placed that knurled knob into the "back up" position or not before backing up. I really got to dislike that thing. Now that the knob is broken off, I need to figure out what to do next. I bookmarked your link for the next time that I see my lift. Maybe even with the busted knob I can use that solenoid valve. Probably easier (and definitely cheaper) than replacing the coupler.
One thing I didn't mention: There's only a 4 pin harness on the lift. Now what?

Add the valve, bleed the system, and remove the 4 pin for a 7 round. I could do it all in about a hour if you were close.

Chris

whistlepig · Nov 24, 2012

I am not a big fan of surge brakes.

JJZ 109 · Nov 24, 2012

whistlepig said:
I am not a big fan of surge brakes.

Me either, but that's what came on this tow behind lift. If I towed it every day, maybe I'd think about some real brakes. But it doesn't go out to every job so I don't see taking the time or expense.
Looks like I'll probably take Chris's advice and add the valve & switch the plug from 4 pin to 7 to make the valve useable. But of course that'll most likely wait until spring arrives. :windy::snowflake:

Renze · Nov 25, 2012

Funny system you guys have in North America. Surge brakes is quite the standard in Europe, most axles are equipped with one way brakes, when reversing the leading shoe turns inward so it doesnt brake when backing up. These are 99% bowdencable operated brakes. Those are trouble free as long as you replace the bowdencables every couple of years.
I guess because surge brakes arent very common in the USA, there arent any axles available with backmatic brakes.

Zick · Nov 28, 2012

JJZ 109 said:
I have a surge brake coupler on a JLG T-350 tow behind boom lift that looks very similar to this: View attachment 290046
The lift is being used by one of my guys, so I can't scoot outside to look for a brand name or model number at the moment.

This thing has been nothing but trouble since I bought the lift a couple of years ago. No matter where we position the knob when backing, the coupler wants to roll under, then it becomes a real bear to unhook. Have to pull the truck forward with the lift's hand brake set, use pry bars, etc. The knurled knob above the sliding bolt is now busted off.
I'm looking to replace this coupler with something that's easier to work with and still have a functional surge brake. The unit weighs in at about #3400 so I want some semblance of brakes on the thing. In the preliminary stages of looking into something like this one.
Any of you old trailer towing pros have any suggestions for an actuator that's easier to work with than my current setup? I'm done using the lift for the season, so I've got all winter to come up with something more agreeable to work with.

Oh, please let me know what you end up with if you decide to replace this unit. I have the exact same one in the picture on our boat trailer and need to find a replacement because the brake reservoir is full of rust!

schmism · Nov 28, 2012

Brake Actuator Coupler Trailer Coupler | etrailer.com

there seem to be plenty of other types out there to go with in terms of replacements.

Reg · Nov 28, 2012

First thin to know is whether the brakes are drums or discs.
May sound obscure, but discs require significantly higher pressure.
1500 or 1600 psi for discs, 1000 to 1200 for some drums.
Next is the tongue size, primarily the width.
and of course the weight.

Then go shopping at etrailer.com

JJZ 109 · Nov 28, 2012

Reg said:
First thin to know is whether the brakes are drums or discs.
May sound obscure, but discs require significantly higher pressure.
1500 or 1600 psi for discs, 1000 to 1200 for some drums.
Next is the tongue size, primarily the width.
and of course the weight.

Then go shopping at etrailer.com

Definitely drums. On a 2005 JLG T-350 boom lift.

Reg · Dec 4, 2012

Option A might just be to replace what you have with a NEW one exactly the same.
These things DO get hit by the truck's hitch from time to time and they just need to be replaced.

Option B is a separate electrical back-up lockout.
Wire it to the back-up lights wire and it will block the surge brake pressure to the brakes.

yelbike · Dec 4, 2012

Isn't there a latch or pin to install so you can back up properly? Not the most convenient but it works. Surge brakes work great in my opinion as long as its not winter conditions.

crbr · Dec 4, 2012

Zick said:
Oh, please let me know what you end up with if you decide to replace this unit. I have the exact same one in the picture on our boat trailer and need to find a replacement because the brake reservoir is full of rust!

Boat Trailers, Trailer Parts + Accessories | Pacific Trailers

Zick · Dec 4, 2012

crbr said:
Boat Trailers, Trailer Parts + Accessories | Pacific Trailers

Excellent, thanks!

JJZ 109 · Dec 5, 2012

Zick said:
Excellent, thanks!

I had this one in mind. Looks like about $10 cheaper for the same unit than the other link provided. The part numbers are slightly different. The one difference I see in descriptions is that the link crbr shows says, "Complete with an electrical reverse solenoid that allows you to back-up without brakes engaging. Solenoid is covered by housing for protection against damage." The link that I had shows no such feature. Maybe that's the $10 difference. If so, I'd think the unit with solenoid would be the way to go.
The lift is put away for the winter so I haven't made the decision yet whether to go with a whole new hitch or Chris's suggestion of a solenoid.

Zick · Dec 5, 2012

JJZ 109 said:
I had this one in mind. Looks like about $10 cheaper for the same unit than the other link provided. The part numbers are slightly different. The one difference I see in descriptions is that the link crbr shows says, "Complete with an electrical reverse solenoid that allows you to back-up without brakes engaging. Solenoid is covered by housing for protection against damage." The link that I had shows no such feature. Maybe that's the $10 difference. If so, I'd think the unit with solenoid would be the way to go.
The lift is put away for the winter so I haven't made the decision yet whether to go with a whole new hitch or Chris's suggestion of a solenoid.

I think we may be looking at different models.
The one I was looking at from the 1st link you gave me was this one;Atwood Hydraulic Drum Brake Actuator, 6000lb. cap. #84132

EDIT: Nevermind just realized that you didn't give me the 1st link, crbr did.

I think you might have been looking at this one? UFP A-60 Inner Member Slide, 7500lb. 1 Axle Disc Brakes #34043
Which looks similar to your last post. UFP A-60 Inner Slide Member, 7,500 lb for DRUM Brakes #34039

How do these compare the model like I have, I have not actually seen these types before.

JJZ 109 · Dec 6, 2012

Zick said:
I think we may be looking at different models.

How do these compare the model like I have, I have not actually seen these types before.

I've never used one either, but to me it looks like more of a one piece unit. It seems to me that the part that the ball slides into would be less likely to rotate downward and bind onto the ball like my current model does. Makes it a real bear to unhook. My current hitch is like the Atwood model shown in your link.