Summit Monoblock Directional Control Valve

[mechtheist]

I would use a hydraulic T the tank hose off of the loader valve. I circled where I would put it on your picture.

View attachment 724578

I was thinking of that first but thought it would be cleaner to use the other port but I could see it as less 'invasive' way to go. Is there access to the 3pt dump to the tank? I did a quick look around but didn't see anything that looked promising.

 

[K5lwq]

There may be a place somewhere to add a port but using a T will be simpler and cheaper.

 

[mechtheist]

Just be aware that you will need a Power Beyond plug in the valve that you are using to send the fluid to the P port of the next valve.
Many times the power beyond plug will go in the straight thru port that may be marked as a T port until a power beyond plug is installed.
Attached is a link to a Prince mono block valve installation sheet it shows that the power beyond can be installed in a couple of different
locations and that an internal plug has to be installed in some setups.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/iPrinceMBValves.pdf

Thanks, I'll take a look. Summit sells one of those and says it's a requirement if you want to use Power Beyond, they call it a Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve. It looks like it's nothing but a standard connector, I thought it was just a way to up-price the thing, it's $22.50 though which isn't really all that high considering what lots of these things can go for.

 

[RickB]

Thanks, I'll take a look. Summit sells one of those and says it's a requirement if you want to use Power Beyond, they call it a Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve. It looks like it's nothing but a standard connector, I thought it was just a way to up-price the thing, it's $22.50 though which isn't really all that high considering what lots of these things can go for.View attachment 724600

That gizmo isolates the return port of the valve from the Power Beyond port. The key feature is the lower o-ring that seals the respective galleys. This PB sleeve would replace a plain plug that blocks the PB port directing all the combined flow to the tank port of the valve.

 

[ptsg]

To add to what Rick said and if you end up with the Summit valve, that power beyond sleeve will go on the port of the valve marked with N. That's how they label that port on that valve. You'll need to take the plug of the valve and replace with the sleeve.

 

[ericm979]

Put a tee in the tank line coming off the loader valve. You can do it either at the loader valve or where it goes into the transmission case. But that's under the seat area and I'm not sure how easy it is to get to.

The 3pt valve is inside the transmission case. The tank port just dumps out into the case. There's no way to get to it that I know of.

 

[mechtheist]

Put a tee in the tank line coming off the loader valve. You can do it either at the loader valve or where it goes into the transmission case. But that's under the seat area and I'm not sure how easy it is to get to.

The 3pt valve is inside the transmission case. The tank port just dumps out into the case. There's no way to get to it that I know of.

That's very good advice and I should have thought of it since it's almost certainly closer than the valve end. I was just wallowing around under the tractor dealing with my joystick cable issue and should have looked. I'll be going back under there soon enough.

 

[mechtheist]

Put a tee in the tank line coming off the loader valve. You can do it either at the loader valve or where it goes into the transmission case. But that's under the seat area and I'm not sure how easy it is to get to.

The 3pt valve is inside the transmission case. The tank port just dumps out into the case. There's no way to get to it that I know of.

It's NOT easy to get to, it's about halfway back from the valve and there's another, very tight, hydraulic hose running right over it and its fitting that goes into the case. Uh, actually, it's under it since I was lying on the ground looking up. I'm still pondering how I'll go with that. I was rereading the posts in this thread and you mentioned the whole teeing off the tank line from the front loader on the first page, I was too ignorant to understand it at the time, sorry about that. You said:

You need to get it with a PB port and run that to the 3pt and tee the tank into the tank line from the loader. I'll second @ptsg's suggestion to get a valve with a detent on one spool to run the BH off of. Then you can get rid of the BH loop sticking out the back. I'll also suggest that you get a valve with a spool that goes into float. It can be useful for some implements.

I ended up ordering and already received a different valve, same design, but off amazon and only $75, what I'd prefer is the Summit with two float valves but both the one and two float valve versions are out of stock and I'm impatient. Valves with floats aren't as common and I didn't see another one at a low price. I see this as a practice run, get this to work and buy the 2-float version later if I decide I really need it and $75 isn't that much to eat if it comes to that. One thing that still puzzles me is the mention of using a detent spool for the BH, that's solely so you won't have the BH loop lines? You would run tractor BH supply to the P port of the new valve, the tractor BH outlet line to the PB port and if you needed the BH, it would go on the A2-B2 ports on the new valve and you would ram the control into detent? That would be a good way to do it if I would ever need to use the valve while the BH was on but at least for now, all I'll be using it for is a top link and maybe side link or some other 3pt use, so the loop would not be there when BH was not in use and also when it was. Am I missing some other advantage?

I have ordered all the fittings I should need except for the tank tee hose and the hose. I'm thinking of a standard Tractor Supply hose, they're 100R2AT which seems like a common choice and I would add some kind of protection sleeve. I should have this all together before christmas [he says with delusional confidence], possible thanks to all the help I got here.

 

[mechtheist]

I forgot one other confusion. Is there a difference between a float spool and a [non-canceling] detent? What I've seen is the terms are used interchangeably.

 

[LouNY]

The Float function will allow your system to be in a neutral mode neither applying pressure or lift, just going along for the ride and drifting up or down as the device or implement desires.
The Detent function works by holding the valve in one of it's 2 acting positions untill you physically remove it from detent, if going to a cyclinder it will extend or retract till the mechanical limit and then continue to apply hydraulic force till the pressure overloads open and allow fluid to bypass through the pressure safety releif, this will also cause your oil to become quite hot.

 

[ericm979]

Both are detents. With a plain detent, the flow goes out one work port to the implement and the other port goes to tank just like it would with a non detent valve with the lever pushed all the way to the stop. It just stays there without a bungie cord. With the float, both work ports go to tank, so the implement can "float" along the ground. The usual use is for the loader. You'd want float for say a flail mower's tilt cylinder (though many have some ability to tilt to follow the ground). Maybe for a mower top link.

Regular detent is what you want to run the BH or a log splitter or similar implement with its own valves.

I don't know about Summit but with main line brands you can often get kits to add a detent or float to an existing valve.

 

[mechtheist]

OK, there's detents and then there's detents. Summit offers kits but I believe it's something you have to buy with the valve and have them install it.

One thing a float top link might be good for is a landscape rake, I have very rocky uneven ground, Texas hill country, and have used one to clear rocks out on the ground and it's impossible to keep it from digging in often. I've actually snapped off a couple or three tines and that ain't easy to do I don't think. Floating it seems like it would help minimize that.

 

[mechtheist]

I'm sill accumulating the necessary bits and pieces. I have a question I'm hoping someone can help me out with.

It's the fittings for the FEL valve Tank output. I've read a lot of posts and I don't think anyone has mentioned this before. I measured it as best I could and came up with .65" on the male thread and .59" on female, getting the angle on the male thread was not easy to get to, it looks like 30deg. This looks like a JIS 3/8. Now, that's for the 90 deg fitting, not the actual valve body, see photo. A JIS tee that would be perfect there is $20, almost all JIS fittings are more expensive and there's not the variety JIC or pipe have, their associated tees run about $5. There is another adapter between the tee and the valve, many of these valves use ORB fittings, so I'm betting that's what's on the valve. Can anyone confirm any of that?