Stupid, Stupid, Stupid Battery Troubles

[Diamondpilot]

I fully intend to install some kind of a battery shut off switch. I've proven to myself that any kind of "be sure and check everything when you're done with the tractor" kind of I'm hoping to get some guidance from first hand experiences, though.

Harbor freight has one for $4 that looks for all the world to be just like everyone else's switch... Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices



Anyone actually installed these? What kind of tricks make it easier to install or use?

Where my negative battery cable is right now is a little hard to access. I'd have to pull the side panel of the tractor to get to it every time I wanted to run the tractor. Would it be a good idea to re-locate the negative terminal to make this switch easier to get to?

I buy the HF switch all the time. I actually just bought a dozen of them a few months ago for my side job, boats. They are good quality. I always put one of the red keys on a string attached to the switch so its right there, very important in a boat. I always put them on the positive cable but it does not really matter. Just make good connections and mount it securely.

Chris

 

[Bedlam]

Wal-mart caries a shutoff lug with a green knob to turn on it replaces the battery terminal clamp 3 or 4 dollars. works well.
its similar to this reference link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-BA...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I agree with the static test also. Its only good if you can isolate the drain tho.
Of course the infamous HF float charger is always cheap insurance.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I really had a bad time with lawn mower and atv batteries, it bought a bunch of the cheap trickle chargers from HF, I then put in some 2 prong connectors similar to a four prong trailer plug, when your done you just plug it in. No need to get to the battery or anything.
Good luck, Dave

Give me some more details about what you did with these trickle chargers. Which chargers were they? Do you have the item number? How did you hook them up to the connectors? Did you hook the other side of the connectors directly to an extension cord?

I've decided to hook up a trickle charger on my tractor too, and this sounds like a great way to do it.

 

[wwalkersd]

Give me some more details about what you did with these trickle chargers. Which chargers were they?

I'd go with a Battery Tender over a HF trickle charger. The BT is a "smart" charger and will not overcharge your battery. Available lots of places, such as here for $40: Amazon.com - Battery Tender Plus by Deltran. Check the reviews on Amazon. More info at Battery Tender.

 

[JoeL4330]

on my tractor, I use a battery tender permanently affixed to the battery with the "mains" side plugged into a multi-tap short (1-2 ft) extension cord ...into which is also plugged my block heater, in the winter ...so, one plug-in does it. My chrgr has little leds, red and green, and i have it mounted so I can see the lights through the grille. Among the simple mounting options are: duct tape, plastic "handcuff" ties, and a hot-melt glue gun.

Oh, and the little chargers come in waterproof versions, which seems like the one to use on a permanent, outdoor setup.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'd go with a Battery Tender over a HF trickle charger. The BT is a "smart" charger and will not overcharge your battery. Available lots of places, such as here for $40: Amazon.com - Battery Tender Plus by Deltran. Check the reviews on Amazon. More info at Battery Tender.

I'm pretty sure that either of these chargers from HF does the same thing. They both refer to on/off and overcharge protection...

Harbor Freight Tools - 99857

Harbor Freight Tools - 42292

 

[john_bud]

You mean the harbor freight "Battery Boilers"?

Get a decent one as the battery you save may be your own.


jb

 

[Gittyup]

I use the schumacher battery tenders sold at Walmart for $20. Have a quick disconnect that you mount to the battery. Works well.

 

[Thumper & Buttercup]

I've got both the Battery Tenders and the schumacher
and they both do a good job. They come with two
sets of Jumpers, one is a clamp type like on Jumper
cables and then they have a set that you can bolt
on the the cable ends. I usually cut one and solder
an extension in with shrink wrap and black tape,
when finished they look factory. Hope this helps.

 

[MikeyB]

I use the schumacher battery tenders sold at Walmart for $20. Have a quick disconnect that you mount to the battery. Works well.

I second that. I have one on my 3320, ATV, and Harley. They work great, just remember to unplug before use! I did extend the supplied pigtail on my 3320 so I wouldn't have to open the hood each time to disconnect it. Works great for me.

Mike

 

[Soundguy]

I've had an antler pierce a steel belted truck tire.. and I've had a rib bone my dog was chweing on and left int he field go thru a large front tire on my NH 7610s...

soundguy

That one take the cake for me. I once had a Fork in my 2007 F-150. It put 4 tiny holes side by side by side by side. I also had a Dogs tooth or some critters tooth in the tire of a S-10 Blazer I had.

That truck was new and I could not get the lugs off. I walked to a farmers house and ask to use the phone so I could call my dad, did not have a cell phone back in 91. He said he would bring over a bigger breaker bar. Well the farmer got a 6' section of pipe and drove me out to my truck and about that time my dad showed up with a breaker bar and some sockets, 3/4" drive. We could not even get 1 lug off even with us all jumping on the bar and pipe so we tried putting the jack under the bar and all it did was lift the truck off the ground.

It was a Sunday and my dad was mad so I drove the truck to the Chevy lot with my dad behind me and his flashers going. It was about 7 miles and it tore up the tire and aluminum wheel. The next day I gave them a call and they told me they destroyed all 4 wheels getting them off and had to order new ones and a tire. If I remember right they had to use a torch to burn some of the lugs off.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. I'd always leave frame ground connected. Install the cutoff in the posive line.

ever notice fuses always got inthe 'hot' side.. as well as switches.. ground is almost never switched except in full isolation cases where both poles are switched out of circuit.

soundguy

I fully intend to install some kind of a battery shut off switch. I've proven to myself that any kind of "be sure and check everything when you're done with the tractor" kind of I'm hoping to get some guidance from first hand experiences, though.

Harbor freight has one for $4 that looks for all the world to be just like everyone else's switch... Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Anyone actually installed these? What kind of tricks make it easier to install or use?

Where my negative battery cable is right now is a little hard to access. I'd have to pull the side panel of the tractor to get to it every time I wanted to run the tractor. Would it be a good idea to re-locate the negative terminal to make this switch easier to get to?

 

[OKnewguy]

"Give me some more details about what you did with these trickle chargers. Which chargers were they? Do you have the item number? How did you hook them up to the connectors? Did you hook the other side of the connectors directly to an extension cord?"


I use this Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices HF charger with a two prong version of one of these.http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=002220&eq=&Tp= One side of the cable is attached to the battery and feed out from under the seat to an out of the way place where you can still get to it, then the other side is spliced into the trickle charger side.
Works really well, Dave

 

[Cat_Driver]

Warning: This is a rant. There is no useful information in this post.

I must be doing something wrong because I go through batteries faster than anyone I know. I'm sure I must just bump some switch or lever on occasion that puts a gradual draw on the battery until it's dead and stays that way for a week destroying the battery. On my last tractor I replaced the battery just about every winter. Luckily, I had a good relationship with the guy at the parts place, and I could get it warrantied every other year.

I had hoped that with my new tractor I wouldn't have the same problem. Not so. A few weeks ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. This battery was new with the tractor in March of 2008. Not only was the battery dead (No voltage), but when I hooked up the charger, It tells me the battery is all charged. It must have a dead cell or something. I know I must have left the ignition on somehow even though I know I have a problem with that and check it every time. My hour meter went from about 540 hours to 920 during the time the tractor was sitting before I found the dead battery.

I put the battery from the old tractor in the new one (it was only a year old since I'd just replaced it the winter before) and the tractor worked fine for a month or so. This past Saturday I started the tractor and ran it for a while to plow mine and my neighboors' driveways. This morning (three days later) I got up early to plow again and the battery was once again dead as dead. Once again, I pulled it out and the charger again says that it's fully charged.

I know the charger is good because I do use it occasionally to charge other batteries and it works.

I'm taking the newest battery (the one that came with the new tractor) to the John Deere dealership today since it's a John Deere battery. I hope they'll warranty it since it's only 8 months old. Then I'm going to get a battery shut off switch and maybe even an onboard battery maintainer.

Simple solution...

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue-sea-systems-e-series-battery-switch-selector-4-position.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr7fYvt2q5QIVXB6tBh1s9gYzEAQYBCABEgKI1_D_BwE

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Holy necro'd thread Batman.

This guy posted this 11 years ago...

 

[5030]

I'm sure his battery has long since expired.:laughing:

 

[cqaigy2]

And posted a useful link. Thanks!

 

[WranglerX]

I'm sure his battery has long since expired.:laughing:

Any post about solving battery issues is always good.... Most new batteries to day are crap....

Dale

 

[SirMaxwell]

Or simply add a Solenoid, and a couple pieces of wire, tie to RUN side of the keyswitch. Then battery is only connected when the key is in RUN and START mode. Turn the KEY off and battery is disconnected. If you must you could add a toggle switch, then battery stays disconnected until you toggle the switch.

I've eaten a lot of batteries myself, my solution is a 'Solar Battery Tender' with a cigarette/PowerPoint end. Add a plug to Tractor, etc. Pull in, plug in Charger.

Many easy ways to solve the OP issue.

Max

 

[Cat_Driver]

Holy necro'd thread Batman.

This guy posted this 11 years ago...

Old post but NEW problem to a person with the same issues. Do battery issues ever go out of date?


Now if he was posting about a broken buggy whip then no help would be needed.