Stump Grinder Finished

[kruszert]

I finally finished my stump grinder - - - and it actually works!









No major problems, no rebuilt.

One learning - - -position the tractor upwind when grinding!

Reggie

 

[daBear]

Wow is all I have to say. That looks great.

 

[J_J]

Looks good. Did you use a 1 to 1 ratio in the gearbox, or a step up ratio..

 

[Skyco]

Very cool! Is it chain drive? How about the right angle gear box, what ratio is it? I'm also curious about the uneven spacing of the teeth on the grinder wheel.

 

[Big Bri]

As my kids would say "SWEET"

 

[Piperflyer]

Could of used that 3 wks. ago. Nice job

 

[Scotty370]

Me too! Maiden voyage yesterday! 20 some stumps! 4"-20" pine, some 6"-10" cherry. I'm happy with it! Poor pictures, better ones to follow! Hey-"DaBear"---I did it! ~Scotty

 

[J_J]

kruszert ,

Would you tell us a little more about the logic for the teeth placement.

 

[kruszert]

Scotty - - - looks like we finished about the same time. You are a few stumps ahead of me. Good job!

My gear box is a speed increase type. Ratio is 1 to 1.46. Bought it on ebay and it seems to work - - - never can tell about stuff from ebay. I used a
#100 roller chain and sped up a little more, 17 tooth on the drive and 11 tooth on the shaft. Running the tractor around 2100 rpm (2400 rpm is used to get 540 at PTO) works best. I have found that the grinder has a tendancy to pull into the stump if you are taking too big a bite. It can bring the tractor to an immediate stop - - a little scary. Just like any new piece of equipment I am learning as I go. No damage done so far - - - except for stumps.

As for tooth placement. I have 6 sets of angled Greenteeth (700 series)spaced evenly 60 degrees apart around the wheel. Then I have two sets of straight teeth 180 deg. apart. It shows in the picture and gives the impression of odd placement. I was told but the salesperson at Green Mfg. that the straight teeth were needed if I wanted to grind straight down into a stump rather than come from the side. I saw the same tooth placement on a Vermeer SG 252 so I figured I should do it too. Can't say that I have needed them but it was easy to drill a few more holes when the wheel was on the mill and would be difficult to drill later.

Thanks for kind words,
Reggie

 

[jenkinsph]

Very nice job there Reggie


Steve

 

[jmc]

Meticulous!

I wonder if that variable tooth spacing helps to discourage resonate frequency from setting up. They do that with some band saw blades and countersinks.

John

 

[Farmerford]

That is a very professional job. Congratulations.

Forgive all the questions, but the details are very interesting.

Did you make the wheel yourself?
How thick is it and what diameter?
Is that a standard bored hub with a key or is there a different attachment?
With the bottom of the wheel turning away from the horizontal pivot point, do you have to apply downpressure to cut into the stump or do you have to hold it out of the stump?

Congratulations again on a great job of designing, building, and finishing. The detail is very impressive.

 

[kruszert]

John - - -I thought about balancing the wheel using a bubble balancer but decided not to bother - - - never thought about a resonance fequency. In the end the grinder is banging on roots and dirt so I don't think it matters.

Farmer - - I posted pictures of the wheel during construction on Scotty370's stump grinder posting if you want to do a search. The wheel is 3/4" thick
(1/2" would probably be fine), about 17" dia., the teeth add about 2" to the dia. Found it in the scrap yard. Looked to be flame cut and reasonably round. I bored a center hole and welded in a Dodge QD weld in hub. The drive shaft is 2" stainless steel with a 5/8" key to fit the hub. The QD bushing really tightens down on the shaft and key - - - hope there isn't a problem here because it takes a beating!

Can't really tell if I am applying down pressure or holding the wheel up. I push the hydraulic lever to lower the wheel a little and then go back across. As I mentioned earlier if you take too much in a pass the wheel grabs - - -pulls down into the stump and stops the tractor dead - - - this has happen only twice and I had a lot of stump engaged with the wheel! I got a little too aggressive.

Reggie

 

[BlacknTan]

That is one awesome piece of workmanship!

If I was a stump, and I saw that comin' at me, I'd be scared!

Amazing job!

 

[Scotty370]

Reggie- I apoligize for not properly commending you awesome craftsmenship! It's absolutely beautiful!! And functional! Guess that's a rather important factor! Just a couple things for the 'gallery'! The folks, (Jeff and others) at Greenteeth were great to me! I'm using a 22" wheel (1/2") with 18 teeth , 9 per side at 40* spacing. They did my wheel layout an suggested a pattern of three sequential teeth spiraling in toward the center hub, about 1/2" at each interval, at tooth two, and again at tooth 3. At tooth 4, again on the rim, Tooth five 1/2", in, Tooth 6, another 1/2", in. 7 on the rim...etc, etc,......... On the first lead position, I've got two straight teeth. At Position two, angle-out, angle-out. Position three, angle-out, angle-out. Position four, (Again, on the rim) angle-out on one side, and a reverse pocket that lines it up with the center of the wheels thickness. Position five and six, same as two and three. Position seven, angle out, and a reverse pocket, coming in from the opposite side from pos. 4! Position eight and nine are all outward angles. On smaller stumps, I can lower it down, and cut a stump like a chain saw!
Two items you mentioned I've experienced: "Just 'cause you built it, doesn't mean your know how to use it!" I'm in the learning curve myself, and have had that wheel want to grab it's way across the stump (agressively) and stall the tractor! Also "Tight" tolerances, I believe, are a must. especially at the swing points! Also, I'm retro-fitting mine with those ground 'spikes' that you welded along your lower channel iron! When that thing want to "run-over" a stump, it will move my tractor, before stalling! Definately a lot of 'kinetic' energy happen' with that spinnin' wheel. Not a unit I'd lend-out to a friend. I'd rather go and grind their stumps myself! Good Luck! Again, beautiful work!~Scotty
Edit-Darn, I didn't realize that post was so long! Sorry! ~S

 

[joes_427_vette]

Great work Scotty and Reggie ! I looked at complete wheels at a web site and they were pretty costly. Looks like you guys got it done doing some engineering and cost savings. Best designs I have seen to date. Were these similar to production machines ?

 

[kruszert]

Scotty, if I understand what you are saying about the Greenteeth they have more than just two designs - - one straight in and one angled out. I didn't get that when I talked to them. Now that the thing actually works I was planning to call them back and order a couple of spares - - - sounds like I should also ask about different teeth design. Although it works fine as is I may be able to speed up grinding and/or reduce the tendancy to pull into the stump. I have not experienced the wheel trying to pull itself across the stump - - -yet!

Joe - - as for my design I just made a combination of the Vermeer grinder wheel and one I found on line that was for 3 point hitches. Used what I could find in the scrap yard and went with it. I don't think that wheel diameter is all that important as long as you get your tip speed up. Of course the larger the diameter the deeper you can easily grind.

Reggie

 

[Secret Squirrel]

I love it! Why can't I be creative like that?

Rusty

 

[mcd176]

Now that is some nice work!

 

[GuglioLS]

Reggie,

Are you sure that's home made? Man that came out nice. If I had stumps to grind I would want one exactly like yours. Super nice build! I especially like ...... well everything. The grabber teeth at the bottom of the TPH frame are cool too. I hope you have an endless supply of stumps so that you can enjoy using it for all time.


Larry