Stump cutter reversal?

[RegL]

I have the stump cutter for my PT 1430 and it works good except it throws chips along with dirt and rocks toward the tractor and operator. I was looking at PT's web site and noticed that the wheel trencher looks like the same machine as the stump cutter except it spins in the other direction, throwing everything away from the tractor. Was wondering if it be possable to reverse the hyd. lines to the motor on the stump cutter and flip the blade around.

 

[Inspector507]

Then it will keep pushing your PT away from the stump.

 

[blackwell]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I have the stump cutter for my PT 1430 and it works good except it throws chips along with dirt and rocks toward the tractor and operator. I was looking at PT's web site and noticed that the wheel trencher looks like the same machine as the stump cutter except it spins in the other direction, throwing everything away from the tractor. Was wondering if it be possable to reverse the hyd. lines to the motor on the stump cutter and flip the blade around. )</font>

Set the back of the stump cutter on the ground or a small block of wood near the stump then tilt the stump cutter into the stump. This not only prevents chips from covering the operator but also prevents the machine from bouncing as the blade cuts. The wheel trencher has a larger blade turning slower and can be mounted to cut forward or reverse, But it also has a wheel rolling on the ground.
EB

 

[FOURTEEN]

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/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif YES!! REVERSE THE BLADE!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Yesterday I used the Stump Cutter for the first time on my PT-425. I had a 26" fresh oak stump in the path of my new workshop. It was saw cut within 4" of the ground, but had to be completely removed, to over a foot deep in moist clay soil, to prevent concrete slab problems in the future.

I began cutting, but soon discovered that the blade must be fed into the hard oak just a little bit at a time, or the blade will catch and stall. Therefore, the cutting edge must be visible at all times. The blade was positioned so that I could look under the mounting plate at the cut. Fine!! Except that every particle of wood, dust, mud, rock, or whatever is tossed straight back at the front of the PT and me! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

My safety glasses did little good. Within a few minutes I was completely covered with wood chips and clay mud! I found a 12" x 30" piece of Plexiglas which I could hid my face behind, but it became so encrusted with mud that I had to often wash it so that I could see the blade again! The entire front of the PT was full of chips and mud! The chips and mud covered the underside of the canopy, my hat, coveralls, and half filled the footwells before I called it a day. Then 1/2 hour with a hose cleaning the PT! Then 1/2 hour cleaning me!
I even had chips inside my socks and underwear! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I dreaded going back to work today, but determined that there must be a better way! This morning I reversed the hose fittings on the Stump Grinder, reversed the cutter blade, and installed a 20" x 20" plastic guard over the top of the Stump Grinder! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif WOW!! What a difference!! I ground for 45 minutes, got off, and checked the results - I was as clean, and the PT was as clean, as I was when I started! Without using the Plexiglas, I didn't even have to wipe my glasses! I could have ground in a suit and tie and been none the worse for it! Now the dirt and chips are thrown or piled a few feet in front of the PT, rather than piled behind it blocking the view of the blade.

PS: /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif The blade pulling or pushing makes no difference!! Depending on the angle of the PT, either way, just a little treadle pressure, forward or reverse, holds the blade in position.

PPS: Also, a "Suicide Knob" on the steering wheel helps with the continual side to side swinging of the blade. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif



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[duane]

Fourteen,

Could you describe how you reversed the blade, can't picture it right now. One side of the blade is open to fit over the shaft, the other end is captured where the allen head screw secures the blade to the hydraulic motor shaft. I must be missing something.

Duane

 

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/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Sorry, I don't know about that style blade!!

On the PT-425, it is just a flat plate on both sides with 5 hex-head bolts passing through it and into the motor hub! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif



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[RegL]

Hey guys, thanks for the replys.

Blackwell, I can see where having contact with the ground other than with the blade would add a lot of stability. I'm going to have to try that. I'm assuming, that with each setup you can rotate the blade down to as deep as you want to end up before moving to the next cut. Am I correct?

Fourteen, this must be my lucky day. Not often I inquire about some nutty modification i'm thinking about, and someones just done it and it worked. A question I have is , do you think it would be wise to add a guard to the front? I'm doing this for hire and don't want to cause any damage or injuries. Suppose one could lay the big light materials bucket in front of the stump to catch all the chips and have a lot less clean up also.

 

[MossRoad]

That or make some sort of stand for a piece of plywood to stop most of the dirt. Just remember to not "aim" towards a house or property, etc... If one of those teeth lets go or you hit a rock or something, no telling how far it could fly? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

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As previously described, I added a 20" x 20" plastic guard which nearly encloses the Stump Grinder. I used a piece of thin tub enclosure plastic about 1/16" thick secured with one 1/4-20 bolt through the steel guard. The chips from the PT-425 grinder only fly a few feet and even when flying at me were more of a nuisance than a danger!! I originally had the shield 30" x 20", fully enclosing the unit, but then I had to periodically clean the chips out. The 20" x 20" works fine for me!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Putting something out in front, maybe just a tarp, would help with clean up!!

The PT-425 Stump Grinder doesn't have the speed or power I had hoped it would, but I have no way to determine if it's me or the machine!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif



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[J_J]

I have what someone told me was a stump cutter. He also said it did a good job digging trenches. It is built like a stump cutter. It has no wheel. The teeth are welded on or brazed on. I don't think the blade can be reversed, because the main part of the hub, is on the inside towards the hyd motor. When I called PT about the model number, they said it was a stump cutter. They told me the correct way to grind down a stump, was to place the blade on the far side of the stump and lower the frame on to the stump for stability, and swing the cutter left and right and backing up slowly. I did learn that the teeth could be sharpen with a diamond wheel by under cutting the back part of the tooth, keeping the leading edge of the tooth sharp to the touch. I did try it in the trenching mode, and it worked quite well. I believe that it will cut pavement also.

J.J.