Stihl MS290 problem

[MotorSeven]

Oh, one more thing, take off the air filter cover, turn it over and see if it has a cold/warm weather vent. It will be a little black section of plastic that you can move from one opening to another. This controls how much outside air goes into the carb for temps below 32 deg. If it has one it might be set for cold weather. My 066 has one, but i don't know about your particular mod. Just a thought....

 

[MotorSeven]

Oh, one more thing, take off the air filter cover, turn it over and see if it has a cold/warm weather vent. It will be a little black section of plastic that you can move from one opening to another. This controls how much outside air goes into the carb for temps below 32 deg. If it has one it might be set for cold weather. My 066 has one, but i don't know about your particular mod. Just a thought....

 

[BlueRidge]

<font color="blue"> can see you didn't take the 8 hr "starting certification " course..... I have found that different mfgs 2 strokes usually have their own pecuilar sequence and trial & error is the way most of us figure them out. It can be frustrating</font>

Yes, it can be.

The question is, why do we have to put up with this? Think about it - from what other kind of machinery would we tolerate this?

 

[BlueRidge]

<font color="blue"> can see you didn't take the 8 hr "starting certification " course..... I have found that different mfgs 2 strokes usually have their own pecuilar sequence and trial & error is the way most of us figure them out. It can be frustrating</font>

Yes, it can be.

The question is, why do we have to put up with this? Think about it - from what other kind of machinery would we tolerate this?

 

[midlf]

"from what other kind of machinery would we tolerate this? "

You're probably using one to post that message. All Hail Emperor Bill Gates.

 

[midlf]

"from what other kind of machinery would we tolerate this? "

You're probably using one to post that message. All Hail Emperor Bill Gates.

 

[Sigarms]

Warm weather vent was in place, and I do change this according to the temp.

Although I'm not "book smart" I do make sure I read the instructions before I take somthing apart /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif and before the "first start".

I know what had me confused.

When in the "warm start" position, after it starts, it automatically (sp?) will "click" up to the "normal run position after you press the "trigger".

6'x12' trailer, filled it 12 times over the weekend with brush and limbs.

Got off work early today, went over to the house. Hot, high 80's low 90's. Saw wasn't run for at least 20 hours.

Put in "cold start", one pull, nothing. Throw it to "warm start" position, one pull, nothing. Throw it up to "normal run position"and it started on the first pull (total of 3 pulls).

Seems like when its very hot outside, may not have to have it in the "cold start" position. Not sure, mostly ran it in fall and spring, early in the day, only difference that I see now is that its summer and was hot.

Just went out to the truck, got the saw out, one pull on the warm start, nothing, one pull on the "normal run" position and it cranked right up after the first pull.

May have a "finicky" (sp?) saw, overall ran great, no problems other than figuring this out.

Worn out from using the poll saw today, just cut up the limbs on the ground with the saw and some "big" bushes, will get them tomorrow.

 

[Sigarms]

Warm weather vent was in place, and I do change this according to the temp.

Although I'm not "book smart" I do make sure I read the instructions before I take somthing apart /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif and before the "first start".

I know what had me confused.

When in the "warm start" position, after it starts, it automatically (sp?) will "click" up to the "normal run position after you press the "trigger".

6'x12' trailer, filled it 12 times over the weekend with brush and limbs.

Got off work early today, went over to the house. Hot, high 80's low 90's. Saw wasn't run for at least 20 hours.

Put in "cold start", one pull, nothing. Throw it to "warm start" position, one pull, nothing. Throw it up to "normal run position"and it started on the first pull (total of 3 pulls).

Seems like when its very hot outside, may not have to have it in the "cold start" position. Not sure, mostly ran it in fall and spring, early in the day, only difference that I see now is that its summer and was hot.

Just went out to the truck, got the saw out, one pull on the warm start, nothing, one pull on the "normal run" position and it cranked right up after the first pull.

May have a "finicky" (sp?) saw, overall ran great, no problems other than figuring this out.

Worn out from using the poll saw today, just cut up the limbs on the ground with the saw and some "big" bushes, will get them tomorrow.

 

[MarkV]

Sig your last post makes me wonder if the saw still needs some carb adjustment. I have the same saw and need to use the cold start setting on a new day even when our Dixie temps are in the 90’s.

Know what you mean about the pole saw. It does a great job but it sure can wear you out.

MarkV

 

[MarkV]

Sig your last post makes me wonder if the saw still needs some carb adjustment. I have the same saw and need to use the cold start setting on a new day even when our Dixie temps are in the 90’s.

Know what you mean about the pole saw. It does a great job but it sure can wear you out.

MarkV

 

[MotorSeven]

12 loads? Are you shure you are gald it's running /starting ok? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RD

 

[MotorSeven]

12 loads? Are you shure you are gald it's running /starting ok? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RD

 

[wushaw]

I have to agree with MarkV on the carb adjustment, my two Sthils also require cold position when first startup on hot day or cold day.

 

[wushaw]

I have to agree with MarkV on the carb adjustment, my two Sthils also require cold position when first startup on hot day or cold day.

 

[Sigarms]

It would of taken a lot longer and harder if that saw wasn't running /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Don't know if I remember seeing how to do a carb adjustment in the manual, easy to do?

I have found that it is easier to load a trailer full of "brush" than to unload it (and where I had to dump it, a "dump" trailer would of been no use as well).

Will have to take some pics. Lady has a very old Deere and Oliver tractors sitting under one of her sheds. Might be a nice tractor (tractors) for somebody to restore if interested (and they will need lots of work).

Thks for the info.

 

[Sigarms]

It would of taken a lot longer and harder if that saw wasn't running /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Don't know if I remember seeing how to do a carb adjustment in the manual, easy to do?

I have found that it is easier to load a trailer full of "brush" than to unload it (and where I had to dump it, a "dump" trailer would of been no use as well).

Will have to take some pics. Lady has a very old Deere and Oliver tractors sitting under one of her sheds. Might be a nice tractor (tractors) for somebody to restore if interested (and they will need lots of work).

Thks for the info.

 

[MotorSeven]

As for the carb adjustment, without a tach, & unless you do it for a living, getting the correct setting would be a cr@p shoot. If you lean it out too much you will burn up the piston. For the $10-20 it will cost, let a saw shop have the business. The factory default setting for both small screws is closed, then back out one turn, but be carefull when you close them, because they are somewhat delicate, and over tighning will cause the needle to punch a hole in the carb wall requiring a new carb($65), and don't ask me how i know this, lets just say i have a nasty habit of learning the "hard" way /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif! Most of the new Stihls have covers on the set screws to keep us amatures from monkeying with 'em /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.
I read your thread on the tractors, and they are screaming to be restored. There is and antique tractor web site, but i can't remember the name of it. If you can post those pic's there, i am sure the lady will make some $ and see some smiling faces /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
RD

 

[MotorSeven]

As for the carb adjustment, without a tach, & unless you do it for a living, getting the correct setting would be a cr@p shoot. If you lean it out too much you will burn up the piston. For the $10-20 it will cost, let a saw shop have the business. The factory default setting for both small screws is closed, then back out one turn, but be carefull when you close them, because they are somewhat delicate, and over tighning will cause the needle to punch a hole in the carb wall requiring a new carb($65), and don't ask me how i know this, lets just say i have a nasty habit of learning the "hard" way /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif! Most of the new Stihls have covers on the set screws to keep us amatures from monkeying with 'em /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.
I read your thread on the tractors, and they are screaming to be restored. There is and antique tractor web site, but i can't remember the name of it. If you can post those pic's there, i am sure the lady will make some $ and see some smiling faces /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
RD

 

[Sigarms]

Have to volunteer (sp?) some time at Petsmart today, but will be taking numerous picures AFTER I ask the lady if shes interested in "letting them go" and if you see the pics, means she wants to get rid of them.

I'll leave the saw to the people who know what they are doing /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Sigarms]

Have to volunteer (sp?) some time at Petsmart today, but will be taking numerous picures AFTER I ask the lady if shes interested in "letting them go" and if you see the pics, means she wants to get rid of them.

I'll leave the saw to the people who know what they are doing /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif