Starting a tractor in extreme cold temperatures

doneill127 · Feb 1, 2022

When the thermostat is closed water flows from below the tstat through the pump into the block. When it opens its from tstat outlet through radiator into pump to the block some may still flow though by pass. This design assures flow to the pump to prevent cavitation.

I believe there’s also a design without the bypass that bleeds some coolant through/around the tstat to the radiator to the pump also to prevent cavitation. The advantage of the bypass would be quicker warm ups

jayhawk238 · Feb 1, 2022

SylvainG said:
So for two weekends in a row, I was unable to start the tractor with temperature around -35C. Had to wait for the temperature to be a 'mild' -20C for it to start.

I have a 300W heater on the cooling line and installed last weekend a battery tender. The heater is turned on for about two to three hours prior to the attempts at starting it. The tender stays 24/7.

What I do is 4 cycles of 8 seconds glow plug and try to start it. At first, because of the battery tender, it turns pretty good but fails to start. Grey smoke comes out but that's it. I do a few more cycles of the glow plugs and it still fails to start. I crank for about 5 seconds each time. After about 5 or 6 attempts, battery is having difficulty turning the engine so I stop and let the temperature warm up. At -20C, after about 3 cycles of the glow plugs, the engine fires no problem.

What's the trick to start a diesel engine in such extreme temperatures?

Thanks

Once winter hits my tractor's block heater and battery blanket is plugged-in 24/7. A little higher power bill? Yes, but the tractor always starts. I use it for snow removal mostly in the winter and we do get below "0" temps often.

hube2 · Feb 1, 2022

Egon said:
In line heaters are just as effective as a block heater. the cooling fluid will circulate and heat the block.

With an engine that is not running the only circulation of heat is caused by convection, hot liquid rising and cool liquid falling. You will get the best performance from the heater that is lowest in the liquid.

The heater that is higher will cause no convection to occur because the heated coolant is already at the top. Yes, the heat will eventually move down, but it will take a longer time.

This is why your house water heater has two elements. The element at the top is usually set at a higher temperature than the lower element. The cold water flows into the bottom of the tank and your faucets are supplied from the top of the tank.

So, which is more efficient really depends on where it is installed in relation to the top/bottom of the fluid volume. The lower one will heat more liquid faster.

SylvainG · Feb 1, 2022

RancherGuy said:
Thought I would include this link so you can visualize what could happen in extreme cold. All oils - engine and hydraulic - will have very high viscosity. Just because the engine starts does not mean your hydraulic system will be good to go. The warmer everything is, the better for the tractor and pocketbook.

Yeah, once started, I leave it running for about half an hour at those temperature to let the fluids warm up.

Egon · Feb 1, 2022

SylvainG said:
Yes, this is the type of heater I think the tractor has. I don't think it recirculates the cooling fluid. I hear no sound from it.

Regarding the fuel, I use winter diesel. I can see grey smoke coming off the muffler so I think it does make its way to the combustion chamber.

I'll also check the Glow plugs for their resistance.

Is the heater orientated the way the instructions show?

Yes, there is a proper way.

SylvainG · Feb 1, 2022

I have no clue. It was already installed when I bought it. Now that I know there is a direction, I'll see if I can see a marking. Although if it's oriented wrongly, nothing will be done until spring. No way I'm working with cooling fluid in these temperatures we're having lately!