Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer

/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #1  

KeithInSpace

Veteran Member
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
1,582
Location
Fred'burg, Virginia
Tractor
Kubota BX2230
I chronicled the purchase of my 7' x 20' 10,000# dovetail trailer a while ago. Generally speaking, I am pleased with the purchase. It is a Leonard. Unfortunately, the salesfolks were not as helpful or knowledgable as I'd have hoped (trailer was delivered un-inspected with at least one out of balance wheel...other places inspected their trailers and at least took the time to have the wheels balanced). But, the trailer fit the bill...I purchased for $2,500 brand new. Alternatives at other dealers were $2,200 for 7' x 16' 7,000# flatbed and $3,300 for 7' x 18' 10,000# dovetail.

I've noticed the 'normal' stuff like lack of paint on the underside, cheesy electrical connections, and a grouchy tongue jack. But figuring my alternatives, this was a good purchase. I only really needed a 7,000#, but hate leaving so much towing capacity on the table (truck is good for 9,400#). I view this trailer as having the added safety of heavier tires, brakes, and axles as I hope to never approach its true capacity. It's built pretty well...I can jump up and down on the fenders...something I can't say of other trailers I looked at. It shimmys and bucks a bit when empty (hopefully balanced tires will help), but rides like a DREAM ON CLOUDS GLIDING ON WHIPPED CREAM with my tractor secured onboard. Very nice tow when loaded. Very nice indeed.

This being my "all around" trailer, I needed to outfit it to carry mulch, stone, sand, timber, brush, and other such things without them spilling out the flat sides, so stakesides were in order. Given the size of the thing, my challenge was to make the sides light enough to manage, but constructed such that stuff didn't fall out of holes. The attached pictures demonstrate my solution. The frames are full lap-joint 2x4s, individually routed to fit. the front half can be left as a wind break should the back half be removed (note the 45 degree break in the middle), but most of the time, all panels will be in place. Each panel weighs about 25# at the most...quite manageable. Once buckled in with the barrel locks on the sides and the gate braces front and rear, it is quite stout and doesn't shake around much at all. The only problem so far has been a wicked glare in the morning sun...it all may end up painted before all is said.

With the stakesides mounted, I was forced to install some manner of tie-down within the limits of the bed sufficient to chain my tractor. Enter a series of 11,000# D-rings from TSC. 12 in all, I have 4 forward and 2 aft on both sides of the bed, all fastened to the cross-braces with Grade 8 bolts. I routed them into pockets in the bed so I could slide my bucket over them without getting snagged. I considered the E-Track system, but was concerned about getting stone and mulch choked up into the mounting track. Plus, that system would have added well over $400 to the project...as this is, each ring was $7 each. This system will greatly enhance the flexibilty in properly tying things to the deck.

As I have always found helpfulness in finding the fits and flaws in other's solutions to their own problems, I hope someone finds something helpful in this approach. Given the time invested in these additions (probably 20 or 25 often interrupted, broken hours in the hot sun, spanned over 3 weeks in 2 hour blocks, further softened to inefficiency by several cold beverages and, of course, my grilling duties), I hope they last several years at least.
 

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/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #2  
Great setup! And thanks for the pics!

Curious - How do you secure your BX? Chain and binders? Or straps?

I have an 18', 7000#, landscape trailer. Kicking myself for my initial ignorance and lack of research when I bought it (plus I'm convinced I overpaid). Have yet to put the BX on it. I'm concerned about the cheese grate ramps holding the weight and blocking the rear (or adding rear jacks) when driving up on the back. And I want to use chain with binders based on my reading here. I like the D-ring - and your work makes me like it even more - but I'm still concerned over their ability to properly secure the load. Something about drilling the cross-braces makes me feel like the structural integrity is weakened. But again, I have no expertise with such things

Thanks for the input - as usual it is very helpful

-Eric
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #3  
Keith, Thanks for the pics! I picked up an 18' trailer for the tractor that will double hauling the bark mulch, loam and other things. I have been thinking of building the stake body and using tarps to keep material from leaking out, but I really like your solution.

How tall did you make your sides? I was thinking about 3 1/2 - 4'

Mike
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #4  
Just working through this myself.

I can tell you that with my 20' 7,000# trailer, having sides over 18" tall is a waste for anything but the lightest materials. 2 tons of gravel is just a small pile right in the middle over the axles. a load of wet sawdust filled to the top is about all i want to pull with my tundra.

of course, your tow vehicle may vary. after the trailer weight is added, about all i can haul is 2 - 2.5 tons, so higher sides weren't important to me and just add wind resistance and take more gas to pull when not being used.

as far as d-rings, i'm unaware of anything that is stronger other than fabbing up heavy angle or channel tie downs. i think that would be overkill. the frame is the strongest part of the trailer. in a serious accident, the frame will probably get sprung anyway, so anything tied to the frame is subject to failure. properly secured d-rings (grade 8 with washers and center drilled holes) is going to be good enough. if you need more, you use multiple tie down points in addition to the DOT requirements. you have to remember the frame cross members are tied to the flooring and sides, so it all locks together.

when i got my trailer, the d-rings were welded to the diamond plate which was welded to the frame. i questioned this. the manufacturer said he had never seen one fail from doing it that way. what was i to do, never having experience with that before? i just use 'em and so far so good.

other trailer mods i'm considering is to mount my tool box, weed trimmer and blower racks, and gas can racks to the rear of the trailer. where my axles are located, i always need more weight towards the back, since the trailer itself provides plenty of tongue weight.

the work on your trailer looks great! you may have inspired me to redo (or at least paint) my tin siding and try to make it look a little nicer!

amp
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Mr. Ampsucker:

Don't disagree on your height observations. I settled on 24" tall only because that is how the tin panels came...otherwise, I'd have to make more grinder cuts.

Regarding the rings, they are attached with Grade 8 washers and, where possible, expanded to 3/4 inch washers to spread the load even more. I know the rings won't fail. I figure if the accident is bad enough, it will greatly deform or break the cross-members (would also have to shatter all deck planks as well), but hopefully enough energy will be taken out of the accident by that point that the tractor won't fly into my tow vehicle. The cross members are 2" x 4" angle, fully welded into the channel on both sides. Pretty stout stuff.

In this accident consideration, I don't see a whole lot that changes from having the chain over the rail. Actually, I had issues with the chain shifting and loosening during a trip when attached to the rail, so this may actually work a little better.

I've seen MUCH less stout arrangements used for transportation of cars on a regular basis.

Mr. NHbotanut:

I'll probably still need tarps to keep sand from leaking. Everything else should be OK though. See above on panel heights.

Mr. NuBota:

Your trailer should handle the BX very well. I attach using 5/16 Grade 70 chain and I have both over-center and ratchet type binders. I use one of each...over center on one end and ratchet on the other to snug it up.

I haven't attached the tractor to this new configuration yet, but I think I will loop onto the tractor frame with both ends of the chain, looping the chain across the deck between two of the rings...I'll then just grab the chain with the binders and cinch down, leaving a loose loop of chain on the deck that I'll bungee or something. That way I'm pulling on the tractor with hard connections and the chain can roll through the rings...one chain in front, one in back.

I've found that if you pass the chain through the tractor, the links can "hang" on any/all available corners and compromise how tight you can effectively tighten.

I had very faint initial concerns about drilling the cross-members, but they are 3/8" holes close to the ends. I didn't put any mounts in the middle since that is by far the weakest part of the beam (further weakend by new holes)...that's why I kept them as far outboard as possible...minimize the possibility that I'm affecting the structure.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #6  
Another way to make tie downs rather than purchasing "D links" is to weld a short piece of pipe to the frame member just below the deck. Drill a hole in the deck and drop a short piece of chain in the hole, thru the pipe. Weld a flat washer on top of the chain(never use the last link to hook a binder/chain to) and weld a bolt in the last link under the trailer. When you need a tie down place, grab the washer and pull the chain till the bolt bottoms out on the bottom of the pipe. Instance secure chain holder. A router to recess the washer below surface is also a nice touch.
David from jax
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Mr. Sandman:

I visualize it. Great idea! Pretty efficient way to make a series of effective chain downs.

Don't always use chain (I do use nylon straps for other things) but could work around that.

Oh, and don't have a welder.

Yet.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #8  
I like that, it looks great and I'd like to do something like that to mine but I won't unload it by hand :eek:
:)
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #9  
Keith, your trailer looks great man.
You got a lot of work into it and it shows nicely. I found the same as you with the "D" rings, that the chain gets hung up on the wood for tightening purposes. I welded my "D" rings to the frame but they "snag" the wood a little, so I had to clear the wood to get the chains to slide and tighten. I've also thought about adding a short sides but just haven't gotten around to it.
Yours look great!
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thatnk you for all the great feedback. It turned out looking a little nicer than I planned...usually, you just cobble together something that works, planning on it getting destroyed. I took a 2,000#+ load of yard waste and old firewood logs to the dump yesterday and while I was unloading, I had 3 different folks walk up and comment on how good the trailer looks, ask questions, and take camera-phone pictures. Weird feeling. Very fulfilling given the effort I put into it.

Loading the yard waste was great. The low sides (relative to my old trailer) made it easy to load. The long length accomodated whole lengths of litter without having to cut it down. And I was still able to pull it around the yard with my tractor using the ball I mounted to my backhoe. The tie-downs worked great to put a couple straps over the bundle...the straps slide very well over the D-Rings and they 'released' easy when done. Worked perfect.

Off-loading the waste worked well, too. It is a bit more effort just because it is SO MUCH litter that can fit in there, but the rear gate popped right out. Then I pulled one of the rear panels and that made it easy to toss stuff out of the side.

In the end, a couple of things pushed on the metal sides and made some small wrinkles in the corrogations. They popped back and look just fine. I was expecting that to happen and it worked very well. The sides did not add to the overall wind resistance at all...there is a chance it works better since the rear ramps aren't "hanging out there" quite as much. Averaged 12.2 MPG around town with the OD turned off and a mix of load and no-load. May get a little worse on the interstate at speed, but the stop/go isn't there. We'll see when I pull my BX to the parent's house this weekend.

Overall, pretty happy with the improvements.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #11  
Now someone needs to come up with a cheap way to dump these long trailers, mine is 25' long and 8'6" wide :eek:
:)
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #12  
MrJimi,
Do it like I did, just add a cylinder to it and make it a dump! Better get a good sized cylinder, as mine would only pick up the last 12 ft of the bed, so the front 8 ft doesn't dump.
David from jax
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #13  
Wow, that's impressive! I especially like the metal. I had considered something similar but with plywood. I just couldn't bring myself to build it knowing the plywood wouldn't last. My only nits, the barrel locks on the angled pieces don't seem as robust as the rest of your construction and how are the d-rings attached given that you've reduced the wood thickness considerably?

Looks fantastic, you should be proud.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks, Mr. RobS.

The barrel locks are only to link the two panels together. They don't really carry any load at all...any outward force on the panels themselves will get transferred to the fenders, should I load it that way. They are not quite what I wanted, but they were $3.66 and suited the need at the time. May upgrade when I get a better idea, but they do what they're supposed to do.

The d-rings are bolted to the substantial cross-members under the wood with Grade 8 bolts. I've done what I could to spread the load by "upsizing" the washers. Any wood that happens to be trapped between the d-ring and the cross-member is basically cosmetic.

Used the trailer to haul the BX down to Virginia Beach for a project with my Dad. Worked great! Snugged down on the d-rings very tightly with G70 chain and they didn't budge.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #15  
KeithInSpace said:
Used the trailer to haul the BX down to Virginia Beach for a project with my Dad. Worked great! Snugged down on the d-rings very tightly with G70 chain and they didn't budge.

Excellent, looks like a very well built trailer!
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #16  
sandman2234 said:
Another way to make tie downs rather than purchasing "D links" is to weld a short piece of pipe to the frame member just below the deck. Drill a hole in the deck and drop a short piece of chain in the hole, thru the pipe. Weld a flat washer on top of the chain(never use the last link to hook a binder/chain to) and weld a bolt in the last link under the trailer. When you need a tie down place, grab the washer and pull the chain till the bolt bottoms out on the bottom of the pipe. Instance secure chain holder. A router to recess the washer below surface is also a nice touch.
David from jax

Maybe instead of welding the bolt to the last link it should just be through bolted...as we know welding to the chain will destroy the heat treating on that link, a la "weakest link" :)
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #17  
RobS said:
Wow, that's impressive! I especially like the metal. I had considered something similar but with plywood. I just couldn't bring myself to build it knowing the plywood wouldn't last.

A couple years back when I bought my trailer (7'x16' landscape style trailer) to move from one house to another, I put 4' tall sides on it with cheap 1/2" plywood in a 2x4 frame as a temporary measure so I could fit more boxes in. I want to say that was 4 years ago, and they're still on and still fine. I cut them down to 3', but that's it. Don't be afraid of plywood. FWIW, the other day I had to go pick up some mulch; I paid for 10 cubic yards. I stopped the guy loading the trailer when it was heaped 3' over the top. Near as I can figure, I had a solid 18 yards in there putting plenty of stress on the sides; no problem. My tires, on the other hand, weren't real happy.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #18  
Skyco is correct about it not being a good idea to weld on chain links. However, you do need to make sure the bolt will stay centered against the bottom of the pipe, and not get sucked up into the pipe. The washer on top can be welded, as you shouldn't be using the top link anyway and it allows the chain to be dropped and stay level or below level with the floor. A couple of spacers on each side of the bolt should keep the bolt centered.
David from jax
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Not trying to revive old threads, but I had an interesting update to this project.

First, the stakesides have worked GREAT!!! I've gotten two loads of mulch, both of which will filled up to the tops of the sides over the wheels. There was a tremendous amount of outward pressure on the stakesides and they held great. The fenders gave support just where I needed it and the barrel locks did a stupendous job of binding the two sections together.

The gate was easy to remove under load and in both loads it was just the last few teaspoons I couldn't get out of the front corners. All told, I only had to shovel the last two half-buckets...maybe 5 cubic FEET out of 6 cubic YARDS.

The recessed tie-downs couldn't have worked any better. It would have been a real pain if they were raised. Similarly, having the bucket on the deck was great, so the e-trak system would have been a hinderance unless I had countersunk the whole thing.

I could not have ever hoped for better performance from the system. Very , very pleased in how it accomodated my use.

NOW: THE PROBLEM. I was forced to leave the second load in the trailer for 48 hours due to circumstances. In those 48 hours, it did a real job on the inside of the galvanized panels. In a nice little arching shape...the perfect shape of the mulch pile...I have scaling of the galvanization and in some places a nice, thin coat of rust.

I'm not too worried about it since that is what they were made for, but at the same time I'm hoping the metal doesn't eat itself. I'll probably wire brush it for 3 minutes and throw some silver paint on there JUST so I don't get red rust on my when I walk around while loading my tractor.

Don't know that there are many alternatives to the metal...the weight it took without deforming was amazing. I couldn't imagine using plastic unless it was VERY thick. Fiberglass is too flimsy. Wood would be too heavy for the height. Dunno.

Just thought I'd share, though. Not a big deal, it just looks "used", which isn't a bad thing. But the immediate corrosion as a direct result of contact with the mulch was a little unexpected.
 
/ Stakeside and Tie-Down Solutions on Flatbed Trailer #20  
Imitation is the best form of flattery. Thank you Keithinspace. I saw your stakeside project & had to have one for my existing trailer. Works great, but no need for the floor tiedowns. More work than I thought it would be ( no radial arm saw or router ). I used free used lumber & got the used metal panels for $25.
 

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