SPLITTING A TS254c

[greg_g]

My bearing seized up and ground the fingers off the clutch, so I ordered a new clutch and bearing.

I believe your problem recurred because you used the old bearing seat. The fact the clutch fingers were ground down means that the TOB rode forward on its seat. That damages the seat, which should be replaced along with the bearing.

My guess is that your replacement bearing has also ridden forward on the previously damaged seat.

//greg//

 

[grsr3]

Hello Tony,
I purchased a new TOB from Chip at Artrac. It's another Chinese bearing like the last one. I took the new one to my bearing place and we spent about an hour meauring it and searching the product cataloges and shelves for something American made that would fit. We found a number of bearings that were very close. Each was off in one dimension or another and until I split the thing (should be today) I won't know which can be used. I took one of them with me and we shall see. I don't think the bearing has to be identical in every respect---just the ones that would change the operation of the clutch---but I am not sure about that until I see how everything works inside. I will let you know. I'm sure all Kama owners want to know about this.
Geo.

 

[greg_g]

Been there, done that. The bearing number is stamped into the housing. There are a few automotive applications for older model European cars, but that's all I found. And no place in my five state area has that bearing number in their system.

Chip (or another KAMA dealer) will be your sole source.

//greg//

 

[TonyMcD]

Thanks.

I'll keep an eye on this post to see how it turns out.

Tony

 

[grsr3]

Tony,
I am taking that sliding collar that the bearing fits on to and will search for an American made bearing with a slightly smaller inside diameter. Then have the collar machined down to accept that new bearing. The outside diameter and the thickness do not have to be exactly like the old one. There is plenty of empty space around the outside of the bearing and the thickness difference will be accounted for when you adjust the pedal. Everything inside the clutch was OK except for the fingers--they were shot. The first three to contact the bearing (for the drive train) were completely ruined. The other three for PTO were not very bad. I'll let you know the bearing number when I find it. Chip from Artrac has been very helpful with parts issues. He is tearing down a new clutch assembly to supply me with the fingers since he has none in stock. He will no doubt replace them when his order arrives from the factory--if it arrives. All Kama owners should take up a collection and hire an armed guard to protect that guy. If something happens to him we are all in "parts" trouble hahaha.
PS-----there is something wrong with this web site---I had a long note made up the other day and a dozen pics. When I tried to post the stuff it asked for a log in then everything disappeared. It always asks for a log in when you post even if you just logged in-------dumb.
Geo.

 

[TonyMcD]

Thanks George & Greg,

I'm don't remember paying a whole lot of attention to the bearing seat collar on the first go around other than some grease.

When I replaced the bearing the first time, I bought a whole new clutch and throwout bearing. Didn't know you could just buy the fingers.

I have the old clutch and old bearing. I don't think the clutch was hurt any, other than the fingers being ground off. If new fingers would put it back in good shape, I could repair it and have it ready. With a new bearing and honing the seat collar, the parts would be covered.

 

[greg_g]

... and honing the seat collar, the parts would be covered.

I was with you right up to that point. Based upon my own experience with this specific tractor, I do NOT recommend machining down a damaged TOB seat (sleeve/collar). Knowing how much to trim off to match some unknown non-standard bearing, gives me great pause. Knowing the comparatively low cost of an OEM replacement, that's definitely the simpler way to go.

And any time the tractor is split for clutch work, don't forget to check/replace the pilot bearing. Since they only cost a few bux anyway, I personally skip the "check" part - and just replace them as a matter of routine.

//greg//

 

[grsr3]

Tony,
I can't imagine that your bearing collar needs to be machined!!?? That's a pretty meaty collar. If it was that badly damaged you should probably get a new one from Chip. I was suggesting maching it if your were going to try to find a different bearing to put on it, That collar and the original bearing were made for each other---like me and my honey. If you mess with the collar it may not mate up right with the shaft or the bearing. AS you can see in the pic below the collar is stepped to accept the design of the bearing. AS you also can see I HAVE a new bearing and the collar looks fine--although the pic is a little fuzzy. I just don't trust those throw out bearings. You can see in the other pic how it came apart. If I can't find a bearing that will work on that collar then I won't have any choice but to use the stuff I have.

 

[grsr3]

Tony--
One other important thing to know. The new bearings come with SOME gease in them---but it's only to protect them from rusting. You need to put that new bearing in one of those gadgets that squeezes the greases completely all thru it. I suspect the guy that put my machine together didn't do that. Or the bearings are just complete crap. Either way I am going to try to find a repacement for it----I don't want to do this job again for a long, long time. I sent some pics of my clutch discs. You can see the old disk has as much material left on it as the new disk. And there is not much of that on either of them....it sure is a crying shame that some one wasn't smart enough to add some more meat on those things---what with it being such a pain to change them. That's also proof that I did not abuse the equipment---never do---no burn marks on the plate---just a bad bearing. Never heard of a machine you have to be afraid to touch the clutch pedal. There is also a pic of how bearing and collar si on clutch and fingers---loosely assembled.
Geo.

 

[grsr3]

Pics of damaged fingers. The first three fingers to contact the bearing (for the trans and drive train) got the most damage. The other three PTO fingers are not as bad.