SPACER FOR CHEVY

[bjess8]

ok I put a leveling kit on my 05 chevy 2500 HD 4wd,just wanted to make it look not so OLD MAN looking and wanted to put alittle bigger tires on it as well, now when I hook up to the trailer and put a fair size load on,it squats a good bit.
So hear is my question...I was looking at some spacer blocks for the rear end just to raise it up alittle bit like 1-2 inches and was wondering if anyone has used them before and wouldlike to know the pros and cons on them.
thanks

 

[bjess8]

I have not done anything to the truck other than the leveling kit..I never gave a thought to air bags I might look into those..is there a better quality air bag or are most of them about the same?thanks for the reply

 

[RobertN]

I use removeable leveling kits.

Leveling kit 1 = 27' 5th wheel
Leveling kit 2 = 1-1/2 yards 3/4" road base
Leveling kit 3 = 1 cord oak firewood

IMHO, a leveling kit is for a street truck that is not used. As you found out, you went to use your truck, and now the backend sags relative to stock.

The "old man" look, is the look of a "real truck"

For what you describe, you might look at an actual lift kit, that raises the front for some tire clearance, but also keep the back just a little high compared to stock

I have friends who did what you did. They haul horses, so they added air bags. Works for them...

ok I put a leveling kit on my 05 chevy 2500 HD 4wd,just wanted to make it look not so OLD MAN looking and wanted to put alittle bigger tires on it as well, now when I hook up to the trailer and put a fair size load on,it squats a good bit.
So hear is my question...I was looking at some spacer blocks for the rear end just to raise it up alittle bit like 1-2 inches and was wondering if anyone has used them before and wouldlike to know the pros and cons on them.
thanks

 

[Diamondpilot]

You are really stuck. The truck have a slight rake from the factory for a reason. To make them ride level when they have the load on them. Adding lift blocks in the rear will only get you back to where you started as far as looks but now worse due to higher height and more GM square wheel well look. I would put it back or try a set of non lifting overload springs in the rear end.

Chris

 

[Ryan03]

By leveling kit, I assume you mean offset torsion bar keys. I don't think there is a simple solution to your issue. You could possibly look into a set of timbrens for the rear to limit the squat in conjunction with turning your torsion bars down a little to give a slight rake while still keeping the lifted look, and finaly add a weight distributing hitch system to limit squat. I have never attempted this, but if I had my heart set on the leveling kit, I would be looking into this or a similar setup.

Personaly, I would remove the keys, crank the bars 1.5 to 2 turns, and slap on some 285's for a beefy look while still leaving a functional empty rake.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Personaly, I would remove the keys, crank the bars 1.5 to 2 turns, and slap on some 285's for a beefy look while still leaving a functional empty rake.

Thats what all the GM guys do around here. Gives the truck a whole new look with that done and some good aggressive tires like BFG's or Dynapros.



Chris

 

[MikePA]

Personaly, I would remove the keys, crank the bars 1.5 to 2 turns, and slap on some 285's for a beefy look while still leaving a functional empty rake.

Cranking the stock bars accomplishes the same thing as the leveling keys, albeit with a harsher ride and probably damaged shocks. If you installed a commercial leveling kit, like ReadyLIFT, shock extensions were included to prevent this.

If you want some of the rake back, there's no need to remove the leveling keys, simply turn the bolts the other direction, I think it's CCW. Also keep in mind, if you do any 'cranking', to raise or lower the front suspension, you will need to get a front end alignment.

I'm not sure what the 2500 HD has on the rear suspension, but the 1500 comes stock with 2 inch blocks, hence the 'old man' factory rake. Therefore, you can't just add additional rear blocks, you'd have to replace the stock 2" blocks with 4" blocks. Stacking blocks is a bad idea.

I'd go with overload springs and leave the front end alone. It's the simplest solution to get rid of the 'old man' look when empty and ride level when loaded.

 

[bjess8]

Yes I should have done some research a little better before putting on the leveling kit on the front(which was new keys)but i think I will crank the bolts out some and see if this help..it should...I know it is all preference but I just do not like the look of the truck with the nose so much lower than the back..I do not tow hardly at all maybe once a month or so...I might even look into the air bags..thanks for all the replies..should have done this before I put the ready lift keys in...I do like the look now...just not towing I will get it correct just needed some good opinions on what to do...thanks

 

[MikePA]

Yes I should have done some research a little better before putting on the leveling kit on the front(which was new keys)but i think I will crank the bolts out some and see if this help..it should...I know it is all preference but I just do not like the look of the truck with the nose so much lower than the back..I do not tow hardly at all maybe once a month or so...I might even look into the air bags..thanks for all the replies..should have done this before I put the ready lift keys in...I do like the look now...just not towing I will get it correct just needed some good opinions on what to do...thanks

Don't forget the front end alignment.

Overload Springs - $359.10
Air Bags - $252.86 - Just the air bags, no onboard compressor
Timbren - $194.71

 

[Ryan03]

Cranking the stock bars accomplishes the same thing as the leveling keys, albeit with a harsher ride and probably damaged shocks. If you installed a commercial leveling kit, like ReadyLIFT, shock extensions were included to prevent this.

If you want some of the rake back, there's no need to remove the leveling keys, simply turn the bolts the other direction, I think it's CCW. Also keep in mind, if you do any 'cranking', to raise or lower the front suspension, you will need to get a front end alignment.

I'm not sure what the 2500 HD has on the rear suspension, but the 1500 comes stock with 2 inch blocks, hence the 'old man' factory rake. Therefore, you can't just add additional rear blocks, you'd have to replace the stock 2" blocks with 4" blocks. Stacking blocks is a bad idea.

I'd go with overload springs and leave the front end alone. It's the simplest solution to get rid of the 'old man' look when empty and ride level when loaded.

Not exactly true, 1.5 to 2+ turns beyond stock on a HD GM is not enough to snap,dislodge, or otherwise damage the front shocks. Only when somebody gets overzealouse turning the bars up, say 3 or more turns does this begin to become an issue. While turning the bars up does not increase the maximum rate, it only makes you start out closer to it, turning them down more than say 1 turn gets you far enough away from it that you will bottom out on the stops before you hit maximum rate.

 

[workinallthetime]

Put a 3" lift kit on my 07 when it had 15k miles on it. It now has 60k on it, i tow my b3030 all over the place and the spring rate did not change at all with the kit, how could it? call ready lift or truxxx and tell them you need blocks for the back and they will ship them to you with new u bolts. Mkae sure you use plenty of anti sieze on the new ubolts before you put them on and make sure the locate hole is well locarted.

The downward slope of the front end is for towing, helps transfer someof the weight to the front and maintain ride and control. My rear springs are the worst of any truck i have ever owned! my truck is rated to tow 10,500 and has the same springs as a normal 1/2 ton. I was up the gm reps hind end trying to get 3/4 ton spring put in it but had no luck. one of these days i will take it to a spring shop and have new ones installed for a couple 100 bucks. IMO this is much better than bags to mess with since its a one time deal, cheeper, and never have to mess with them again.

As for the "street" truck comment, i needed some much more agressive tires due to where i drive on a regualr basis. a full blown lift voids much of the warranty on a truck, you will be constantly hanging parts on it that wear out and the cost is way above a simple lift and level.
I run 33 x 10.50's nitto terra grapler and love them, 45 k out of first set and only replaced them because some gardener left part of his pruners in the road. 4" gash right in the middle of the tire.

i see trucks all day at work, we install ready lift and truxxx kits here and have never had any problems out of them. ready lift is a much better kit and i would go there for the blocks. I make lots of money of my customers with 6" lifts, they really eat up front end parts.

send me your contact info and i can put you in touch with ready lift if you need me to.

 

[Ryan03]

Put a 3" lift kit on my 07 when it had 15k miles on it. It now has 60k on it, i tow my b3030 all over the place and the spring rate did not change at all with the kit, how could it? call ready lift or truxxx and tell them you need blocks for the back and they will ship them to you with new u bolts. Mkae sure you use plenty of anti sieze on the new ubolts before you put them on and make sure the locate hole is well locarted.

The downward slope of the front end is for towing, helps transfer someof the weight to the front and maintain ride and control. My rear springs are the worst of any truck i have ever owned! my truck is rated to tow 10,500 and has the same springs as a normal 1/2 ton. I was up the gm reps hind end trying to get 3/4 ton spring put in it but had no luck. one of these days i will take it to a spring shop and have new ones installed for a couple 100 bucks. IMO this is much better than bags to mess with since its a one time deal, cheeper, and never have to mess with them again.

As for the "street" truck comment, i needed some much more agressive tires due to where i drive on a regualr basis. a full blown lift voids much of the warranty on a truck, you will be constantly hanging parts on it that wear out and the cost is way above a simple lift and level.
I run 33 x 10.50's nitto terra grapler and love them, 45 k out of first set and only replaced them because some gardener left part of his pruners in the road. 4" gash right in the middle of the tire.

i see trucks all day at work, we install ready lift and truxxx kits here and have never had any problems out of them. ready lift is a much better kit and i would go there for the blocks. I make lots of money of my customers with 6" lifts, they really eat up front end parts.

send me your contact info and i can put you in touch with ready lift if you need me to.

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I was speaking in terns of the torsion bar rate in regards to cranking the bolts up or down. I stated that cranking the bolts in does NOT increase the maximum rate of the bars, and turning them down TO FAR would not allow the bars to reach full rate before the suspension compressed comepletely.

 

[FlaDon]

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I was speaking in terns of the torsion bar rate in regards to cranking the bolts up or down. I stated that cranking the bolts in does NOT increase the maximum rate of the bars, and turning them down TO FAR would not allow the bars to reach full rate before the suspension compressed comepletely.

Turned so they are nearly fully compressed is how my 3500 runs. Throw 2000 lbs in the back at the tailgate and it just misses the helper springs and sts level. Throw another 2000 in front of that and it still sits level but now is on the helper springs fairly well. And the ride matches what you get at 2000 lbs at the back. Empty the truck rides hard in the rear.

 

[Ryan03]

Are you speaking of spring rates or wheel travel? The rate will not change, it's built into the bar.

I am speaking of both and the relation one has on the other. To put it another way, if you go to far up or down with the torsion bar adjustment , you are limiting the usabale torsion bar rate you have at your disposal before you reach the mechanical limits of your front wheel travel.