Soundproofing the B3030 Cab and found something interesting

[bandit67]

WaxMan,

Have you thought about installing Dynaliner inside the cab on the seat pan and back wall under the back window? I'm thinking that will absorb a lot of unwanted in-cab sounds. Do you think that stuff would be fairly easy to clean - ie. vacuum & wipe down with a damp rag every so often? I want to cut down on the amount of exposed sheed metal inside the cab. I think that grey Dynaliner would look ok on the grey sheet metal.

I plan to leave the orange fenders alone inside, but am seriously considering adding something like this to the exterior wheel wells: Spectrum - 1 Gallon - Second Skin Audio

 

[WaxMan]

I did put it under the seat, I'm hoping what I am doing underneath the cab will be enough, I want it to look as much factory as possible. I'm sure that stuff would work ok back there but not sure about the look. Did you notice the new Kubota has a inside liner on the wheel wells? I wonder if that will match up to our inside fenders?

 

[bandit67]

Looks like there are enough minor differences that the new liners may not work. That's why I'm considering lining the wheel wells and throwing a pad material on the seat pan. I've found a product that doesn't have an adhesive backing on the pad, so it could just be cut out and laid on the horizontal surface of the seat pan. I thought about some automotive carpeting, since that would absorb some of the in-cab noises, but I'm concerned that may hold too much dirt. The sound absorbing high density vinyl infused pad might be easier to clean.

 

[scrappy isb67]

Do's and don'ts
Ok made a mistake today, well probably made many but this one I know about.
I thought it would be a good idea to put a small strip of the sound deadener on the sides as shown in the first pictures. After all the fenders and the floor bolt together metal to metal.
The Extreme is only 1/16 thick. I thought it would make a nice gasket. But once tighten down it squeezes out and leaves a sticky seal which is just going to get covered with dirt. I don't like it. So I will have to take the two panels back out and remove the side strips. Seems the Extreme is not good under pressure, it's meant to be just on a panel not squeezed. I think it will just keep squeezing out until metal to metal again.
Now I think I should also remove the Extreme on top and below the waffle mount and have the rubber mount be touching the bare metal on top and bottom. At first I thought it would be better with a little more movement, but now I'm not sure? any Idea's? about the Extreme on top and below the waffle mount? Over time it's just going to squeeze out. What do you guys think leave it under and over the mount or remove it.



I like this Daynamat Extreme I can see I'm going to be using a lot of this stuff under the plastic dash, this is where most of the dirt is entering the cab, being blown in from the engine fan. This I knew for years after having the cover off before. Just didn't know how to stop it. This Extreme can cover all the holes. Also around the wires entering the cab.

i think I would leave the extreme on the seam and let it ooze out, then wipe it down with acetone (basically to make it like "seam Sealer")

 

[WaxMan]

This item is the best for that , too bad the white lettering, that is why I'm using it under the floor mat.
You should wait and see what doing the underneath brings, it might be good enough. I'll be done with mine in a few days or by next weekend.
Dynamat 21100 Dynapad | eBay

 

[bandit67]

This item is the best for that , too bad the white lettering, that is why I'm using it under the floor mat.
You should wait and see what doing the underneath brings, it might be good enough. I'll be done with mine in a few days or by next weekend.
Dynamat 21100 Dynapad | eBay

I found an online retailer selling commercial versions without any lettering. I guess they cut your order off of a huge roll. There's also versions out there with black lettering. I figure no one's gonna see it but me, and even then, it wouldn't take long before I don't even notice it when I'm climbing in and out.

 

[chin]

dynamat is rather expensive and mostly paying for the name. Check ebay for similar products that use same material and with greater thickness with no name attached like mentioned. At a fraction of the cost

 

[bandit67]

I've been looking into Second Skin products. They seem to have quite a following in the audiophile community, but may actually be more expensive than Dynamat products. I like the idea of getting everything I need from one place, and they have a liquid undercoating product that I want to put on the wheel wells since I don't want to cover the orange fenders inside the cab.

Their Luxury Liner Pro can be used under the rubber floor mat, as well as on the seat pan and the back vertical cab section under the back window, as it is a charcoal grey color, and is an easy to clean vinyl top layer bonded to a closed cell foam under layer. The only portion I would have to adhere would be the vertical surface under the window, and I think that will be a better option than attempting to install the foil mat on the outside of that section, since it is visible. All of that can go inside the cab, while the Damplifier Pro black foil/butyl adhesive sheets can go on the underside of all the sheet metal sections of the cab floor & seat pan.

Then I will use a closed cell foam to seal up all the little cracks & crevices around the cab, which will help to further cut down on dust, though surprisingly, I didn't have very much making it into the cab last fall when I was doing some work that covered the entire outside of the machine. The dust layer was so bad, I had to blow it off the windows each day so I could see in the early/late day sunshine.

 

[bandit67]

OK, so I ordered some products today. I got the Dynamat Xtreme because I found it cheaper on Amazon than I could get the Second Skin Damplifier Pro for, and with cashing in some of my Amazon points, was able to get it at no charge to my credit card. I ordered the Luxury Liner Pro & Spectrum undercoating from Second Skin, however. I think the Second Skin products are slightly better than the Dynamat products, but couldn't resist the deal on the Xtreme - I'm sure it will do a very good job. Xtreme is 1.7 mm compared to 2mm thick for the Damplifier Pro.

I have a bunch of miscellaneous foam backer rod & foam weatherstripping from previous projects that I will also make use of to seal off seams - basically anywhere I can still see daylight will get that product, and possibly inside some of the hollow frame channels that I can get to. I haven't decided exactly what I will use between the headliner and plastic roof panel, but am leaning toward some egg crate foam just to add a little additional sound absorption at the roof.

I have some spare 1/2" rubber isolation mat in my shop that I will use at that small area where the floor pan sits directly on the transmission. That product has open holes in it that may need to be addressed. I still think I'm going to install the Dynamat Xtreme on the underside of that floor pan that sits on the transmission simply to solidify that piece of sheet metal, even if it gets significantly compressed, because I still think it will do it's job.

WaxMan,
I was digging around late this afternoon, and found an area that I think will be difficult to deal with, but am pretty sure needs more than the low density foam installed at the factory. I think it may be a big job to get to this section, as it appears to run both inside the cab and outside toward the engine compartment, but will have a better idea once I have things torn down. Have you thought about how to deal with this piece under the steering cover? It doesn't look like it'll be too easy to reach from underneath, and looks like it may not be able to be removed with the cab on the machine.

 

[WaxMan]

Bandit , did you put that foam in this picture at the cracks at the bottom? Near the floor mat?
If that is factory foam in those cracks then that is the reason my 2005 B3030 is full of dust and yours is not.
I have NO foam in these areas, just the formed piece of foam behind the plastic panel. From what I remember.
I have been putting my tractor together unfinished because of snow tomorrow here in CT. Guess I'll find out if it's quieter still three floor panels to go, I'll see if i'm on the right track.

 

[WaxMan]

dynamat is rather expensive and mostly paying for the name. Check ebay for similar products that use same material and with greater thickness with no name attached like mentioned. At a fraction of the cost

My JD dream cab and your talking about price?
chin do you have insulation on the underside of your floor panels? As you saw what I'm doing to mine. I wonder what JD has done.

 

[chin]

My JD dream cab and your talking about price?
chin do you have insulation on the underside of your floor panels? As you saw what I'm doing to mine. I wonder what JD has done.

yeah, this thing was rather expensive buddy. believe it or not, there is no insulation that I could see. It is quiet in the cab but I think its all due to the fact that the cab is raised and has isolators.on the four cab mounts. So I think that the noise levels may be due to this alone. The floor pan seems to be of heavy steel. I listened to your video and when I knock my floor pan under the floor mat with a hammer it makes more of a heavy knock sound. Illl look more into it. I can tell you this though, the interior panels are all foam lined with about 1/2 inch thick foam behind the panels. I have a decent amount of experience with dynamat alone even though I recommend cheaper non name brand stuff. I just did (a year ago)a whole frame off rotisserie 1970 gtx with 472 hemi with regular dynamat (not extreme). Did the whole cabin area doors and roof included. You would not believe the results! Unbelievable. If you can find all the weak points in that cab, your going to be one happy b3030 owner. You will just have to keep chasing the weak points you missed and all will be good with that stuff

 

[bandit67]

Bandit , did you put that foam in this picture at the cracks at the bottom? Near the floor mat?
If that is factory foam in those cracks then that is the reason my 2005 B3030 is full of dust and yours is not.
I have NO foam in these areas, just the formed piece of foam behind the plastic panel.

All of that is from the factory. I have not added anything yet, so yes, that is probably why I have much less dust than B3030 owners. Also, all of the levers, foot controls, etc. have either rubber or foam "gaskets" where they enter into the cab. However, I can still see bits of light making its way into the cab, so those areas will be addressed.

Let me know if that steel "toe plate" under your plastic panel has foam glued to the back side flat surfaces, as mine does. Either way, I can tell that foam is not dense enough to mute sound & vibrations, so more needs to be done with that.

 

[Redneck in training]

Google "silent blocks"

 

[WaxMan]

I really think, at least on my older B3030 this waffle pad is best and easiest to install. Kubota may have addressed this since 2005. Will it work? don't know yet.

I would be very interested to see Bandit's floor when he takes this panel off. Will it look like my first picture?

But you can see what the floor rested on before in the first picture(Nothing) The New rubber waffle pad is 3/8 thick the foam around it is 1/2 thick. Using any of these other type mounts will bring the floor up too high, there is no room for anything between the floor and that plate on the transmission. You would have to modify the floor and have the mounts stick up though the floor.
This mount was easy to install, dosen't change the hight that much and should keep in place because of the weight, shape of the floor, foam and bolt heads. There is no place for it to go. If nothing else it will prevent the metal to metal contact like it was before.

Now I know what that noise was when traveling along a rough patch as the cab rocked back and fourth that grinding sound on and off, I thought it was the transmission but now I know it was the grinding of the metal cab floor touching the transmission plate in those three worn to metal spots.

 

[tony binkowski]

hockey pucks!

 

[srs]

View attachment 308898

I noticed today while moving the tractor that I had a vibration noise coming from the small hump directly behind the panel under the steering wheel. It is the area where the gloves are located in the picture. Anyway I put my left foot on the hump and put pressure there and the noise disappeared. So I'm guessing I too need to put some rubber pad underneath to cut down on the noise.

 

[bandit67]

After weekly snowstorms, it looks like we might have the next 10 days with no precip, so I'm hoping to be able to get started on the sound proofing project this week. My Dynamat Xtreme is supposed to be here Tuesday - everything else for the soundproofing is on-hand.

I ordered my stereo receiver & speakers today, so once those get here, I can get started on the stereo install. That was fun, since the Kubota stereo mount I ordered can barely fit a 7 1/16" wide receiver, but most of the current offerings are 7 3/16" wide. I found what I hope to be a decent receiver - an Alpine mech-less AM/FM stereo with bluetooth & USB port, compatible with iPhone.

I plan to order some standard foam pyramid sound insulation to put up in the ceiling, and am trying to find some sort of higher density foam to use for the speaker spacers under the grilles - I'm going to mount 4" speakers in the same area of the headliner that WaxMan did. To start, these will be the only speakers, so I'm hoping all this sound deadening work will allow the 2 small speakers to suffice. The in-ear headphones hurt my ears after more than an hour of snow clearing, so it'll be nice to finally have a stereo.

 

[WaxMan]

View attachment 308898

I noticed today while moving the tractor that I had a vibration noise coming from the small hump directly behind the panel under the steering wheel. It is the area where the gloves are located in the picture. Anyway I put my left foot on the hump and put pressure there and the noise disappeared. So I'm guessing I too need to put some rubber pad underneath to cut down on the noise.

I finished everything but the front panels behind the brake pedal and the same on the other side Tractor has a deeper quieter tone and the transmission whine now sounds like it's in another room and muffled. Really happy with the lack of transmission noise now.
Still noise from the engine but I didn't do anything under the dash yet or those front panels that are slanted.
At 2,000 rpm I can feel air from the engine fan blowing thru where Bandit has that factory foam, That will be next , That is where the dust is entering from and I'm sure it will cut down on the engine noise also.
So that rubber waffle pad works :thumbsup: and it is worth doing.

Just a note : The 1 inch thick hockey puck that others have suggested will bring the floor up too high and none of the floor mounting bolts will then line up. 3/8 is the maximum size the rubber can be used without doing major floor remounting. If 1 inch is used you would have to adjust the mounting holes by 5/8 of an inch.
This is why I'm retuning the 3/4 thick waffle pad. If I used that I would have had to oblonged the bolt holes by 3/8 inch.
By using the 3/8 waffle pad No mounting holes had to be modified. I also left the 1/16 dynamat on top and below the rubber pad.
I do appreciate their suggestions though.

 

[Redneck in training]

There is a special foam made for industrial noise attenuation. It is used as noise isolation material in example under geothermal heat pump.
I was working on construction of ammonia plant located close to housing and they used it for noise abatement from piping etc.

Edit: I think it is called Armacell