Soldering? Information needed.

[czechsonofagun]

Good Morning,

I will be doing some heavy soldering soon. I learned that skill in high school, we were using electrical soldering irons to join sheet metal, build drawers and such. I have done it at home too - my dad had two irons, three including the pistol for electrical connections, and it was quite common to use solder to patch up tin buckets, make small home projects such as lanterns and scoops.

I am pretty sure I can still do it, but I have problems finding the right tool. I would like to go electrical again, probably Weller, but as far as what power I need, I am lost.

Please, advice

Thank you

 

[wrooster]

I will be doing some heavy soldering soon.... but as far as what power I need, I am lost.

What will you be soldering? The iron you need for soldering tiny surface mount components and the iron you need for soldering pails are two COMPLETELY different tools. The only thing they have in common is that one end is hot.

Wrooster

 

[wrooster]

I will be doing some heavy soldering soon.... but as far as what power I need, I am lost.

What will you be soldering? The iron you need for soldering tiny surface mount components and the iron you need for soldering pails are two COMPLETELY different tools. The only thing they have in common is that one end is hot.

Wrooster

 

[czechsonofagun]

Copper gutters.

 

[crash325]

Hi Prokop,
Generally speaking the bigger the better. Unless your doing real small things like radio work.
For most work I like the chisel type as it stays hot all the time. I have a couple of the gun type as well. 1 Is an ancient old craftsman that has an adjustable heat range. Kind of nice at times, but usually just cranked up.

A propane torch is good for a lot of soldering jobs. Such as copper pipe, sheet metal and some electrical wiring.

#1 is Clean Material and the right flux. Acid core from most things except electrical. Rosin will work on most things and is used where the flux can not be cleaned off.

Hope that helps,
Jim

 

[crash325]

Copper gutters.

For copper gutters I would use a torch and acid core solder. Wire brush even if it looks clean.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. for gutters.. I'd for sure go a propane torch, and paste flux... and yep.. sand or brush...

forget the iron or soldering 'copper' that you heat in a fire. the torch is the way to go.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

so many tools... so little time.

the guys that did mine used a propane solder iron. Looked something like this one.

Soldering Irons/Tools - Basic Soldering Iron Kits - Gutter Supply

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

so many tools... so little time.

the guys that did mine used a propane solder iron. Looked something like this one.

Soldering Irons/Tools - Basic Soldering Iron Kits - Gutter Supply

 

[czechsonofagun]

I remember using HCl to clean up the metal before soldering. We call it the chlorid acid. I hope the gutter supplier will carry at least some of the stuff I need.

Anyway, we put new shingles on the house addition and I want to make the little woman (hmm, she is 6') happy by using copper gutters on it to go with the attempted cottage look. The siding is coming down in the next phase and stucco all the way. This is major effort to make the house more comfortable and up to date after my two unemployment periods when only the most critical maintenance was performed.

Thanks for the input, guys.

 

[cdaigle430]

I would consider torch brazing(Oxy-acet) for this type of job as others have mentioned. Higher temps and faster, you can do one gutter joint in less than a minute. You even have a filler choice of Copper, Copper-silver and Copper-zinc (brass).

 

[jinman]

I remember using HCl to clean up the metal before soldering. We call it the chlorid acid. I hope the gutter supplier will carry at least some of the stuff I need.

Prokop, if you are using new copper guttering components, I cannot imagine your needing hydrochloric acid (HCl) to clean the joining surfaces. I would think the 50-50 solder along with a paste acid activated flux would be all you need. You might want to do mechanical cleaning. Very light removal of oxidation can be done with one of those white ink erasers, the ones with a small amount of abrasive, not the soft silicone rubber ones. Copper wets with solder around 500-525 F (260-275 C), so your torch will be much hotter than needed, but allow quick heating of larger areas.

 

[crash325]

I would consider torch brazing(Oxy-acet) for this type of job as others have mentioned. Higher temps and faster, you can do one gutter joint in less than a minute. You even have a filler choice of Copper, Copper-silver and Copper-zinc (brass).

For copper lead solder is the way to go. There is silver "Bearing" lead solder, mostly a waste of $$$
True silver solder not so hot on copper. Brass (Brazing) even a worse choice.

HCl is fine, but paste flux is even better. Seams need to be lapped and Sweat soldered. Once solder flows (From Metal Heat - not torch heat - Keep the solder out of the flame.) remove the heat source. For a clean joint hit it with a wire bush once heat is removed.

I work Cheap. :dance1:

 

[czechsonofagun]

Thanks guys! I will stop at the gutter local store and find out what they have and if they would even sell me what I need.

Here is Mikulas (St.Nikolas) church in Prague with copper roof, always liked the look of that.

 

[Soundguy]

one of the cities I work in does some brass and copper roof's looks nice..

 

[czechsonofagun]

Used plumbers torch with propane and it worked like a charm. The gutter is thin metalled, and does not take much to heat and than just regular flux and solder.

My wife is very happy about the gutter - told her it is flowers for her for many many years

 

[yomax4]

You can also buy solder ribbon or strips. You can slip a strip in the joint with flux, Heat and it flows and seals perfectly. Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

Used plumbers torch with propane and it worked like a charm.

when you described the job, I knew that'd be an easy way to go.. etc.

 

[terraformer]

I would clean the gutters to shiny copper and use a propane torch. The most recent torch that I have works very well for that size. It has an auto start and lock on it.

If you tin the parts first with solder and then clamp the pieces together. Heat with the propane torch. It doesn't take much heat to melt solder.

My electronics background doesn't let me use acid core solder so I still use rosin core electrical grade solder for most anything.

I have a pencil iron that I used as an electronics tech with the ASA in the 70's and a few Weller guns that work up to about 14 gauge wire. Beyond that I get out my propane torch.

Edit.... oops looks like you got er done.

 

[jinman]

Prokop, I'm glad you got the gutter fixed and even more happy that you got an "attaboy" from your wife. You can never have too many of them.

BTW: Are you watching the Olympics? The Czech Beach Volleyball team sure gave our gals a surprise. I wouldn't be surprised to see them with Silver or Bronze. I think we'll repeat for Gold, but it probably won't be as easy as in the past.