Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snowblowing up steep grade issues

[Pixguy]

If you look at the photos below, you will see that I have 400' of pure fun, especially in the winter!

So, going downhill with my scut tlb and front mounted blower works real well, but coming back uphill sure is tough. I have also loaded the rears.
My issue:
I have BH mounted to give me more weight over rears, but it seems like too much weight. I cannot steer easily due to the uphill grade (24% by some estimates) and all the rear weight. I've tried turning the BH to the side and of course I could reverse back up and snowblow just coming down, but that's a waste of time and fuel.

Should I try another rear weight like a 3pt block?
Load the fronts? Not much added, I hear.
Add front weights?

Tx.

 

[SeymourBota]

You don't mention if you have chains on the rear- if not, I would certainly run 2-link chains.

I think the weight of the backhoe may be overdoing it a bit, but I wouldn't doubt that you might need 4wd plus the rear diff locker in some cases.

 

[RoyJackson]

I can't tell from the pics...do you have tire chains on?

The backhoe is probably too much weight on the 3PH. Do you have a ballast box or other (lighter) implement you could try?
Even before dropping the backhoe...try going up the drive with the blower raised...this is just an experiment to determine if you need to balance out your ballasting. If it doesn't help, try adding some type of front weight...not permanently, but also as an experiment. If it helps, you know you need to balance out the tractor.

 

[woodyacres]

I have a 60% incline on both ends of my driveway (coming and going). Why they did that, I can't imagine, but it has given real problems in the winter. I have my 4WD engaged and plow with my back blade. It works well until things get icy or real deep. Then I put chains on my front wheels (only ones I have) and that helps tremendously. My tires are not filled either. When all else fails, I turn my blade around and go backwards but my cruise doesn't work that way and it tends to really hurt my knee by the time I get the 1/2 mile drive plowed. Sometimes I have to lock the differential too, which seems to help. I plan on buying chains for the rear tires this winter.

 

[George2615]

Chains will help but I think you'll find that with the grade you have its best to go downhill then go back up through the path you just made, turn around and go downhill again. Its going to take twice as long but sometimes that's what you have to do.

I have a similar driveway on another piece of property I own have the same problem. I cannot use a blower, plow, or bucket going uphill. I used chains and added 800 lbs. of rear ballast to no avail. Plow trucks cannot plow my driveway since they can't even get up it with 6"-8" or more of snow but the tractor can drive up through the snow to the top then turn around and plow downhill.

 

[slowzuki]

I have 2 similar driveways on my route. One is a drive through with 2 entrances, I go down the steeper one first and loop as I often can't get back up when its wet snow.

The other driveway is straight down. No options, I've been stuck in it before on wet snow and have to drive up in the old snow bank. Chains would solve it but I have to drive a few miles on pavement.

 

[Pixguy]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I did add 2 link chains on the rears and that does help with traction, but the weight must be checked and I will try what Roy mentioned.

I do have a 5' rake but I didn't think that would be heavy enough. I may have to look into a rear weight that is lighter than the BH.

 

[Dmace]

Do you have split brakes?

 

[Pixguy]

Do you have split brakes?

I don't believe so cuz I've never heard of them.

 

[RoyJackson]

I don't believe so cuz I've never heard of them.

Look at your brake pedal...if it's actually two pedals tied together by a movable latch of some sort, you have split brakes (I call them Steering Brakes). Your operator's manual may have a section on them and their use.
The idea behind them is to slow or stop one of the rear wheels to steer the tractor. Someone who knows what they're doing can turn the tractor 180 degrees is it's own length (pretty close, anyway).

I use mine when I'm plowing snow. Sometimes when you push a full bucket (in my case) or an angled plow, the tractor moves to the opposite direction. The split (steering) brakes can keep it on the straight path.
Split brakes probably aren't as necessary on a 4WD tractor as they are on a 4WD, but they can be handy.

 

[Pixguy]

No split brakes, this is just a 24hp scut.

I may look into adding some luggage weights on my front somehow.

 

[tcreeley]

I think your backhoe puts too much weight too far back, moving the center balance point back and making your front end too light (on a grade). I'd take off the backhoe, fill the tires or get a 3 pt carry all to put weight on. On the flat your back hoe should not make a difference. Front weights could even out the weight distribution. But I wonder about the wisdom of having all of that weight just along for the ride.
Good luck.

 

[leonz]

If you look at the photos below, you will see that I have 400' of pure fun, especially in the winter!

So, going downhill with my scut tlb and front mounted blower works real well, but coming back uphill sure is tough. I have also loaded the rears.
My issue:
I have BH mounted to give me more weight over rears, but it seems like too much weight. I cannot steer easily due to the uphill grade (24% by some estimates) and all the rear weight. I've tried turning the BH to the side and of course I could reverse back up and snowblow just coming down, but that's a waste of time and fuel.

Should I try another rear weight like a 3pt block?
Load the fronts? Not much added, I hear.
Add front weights?

Tx.

Hello Pixguy,

Loose the back hoe and add a rear weight box, The rear weight of the Back hoe is countering the traction available to you by making the back hoe light
in the front end for the following reasons;

1. the upper boom is heavy and the weight of the upper boom AND the dipper boom becomes an over slung weight when you are traveling uphill reducing the tractive effort of the rear wheels because the actual front end weight distribution is actually light.

Remove the back hoe and you will see a difference and add back an actual weight box hung on the three point hitch implement carrier and you will be fine with the chains.

 

[Gizmo2]

I have BH mounted to give me more weight over rears, but it seems like too much weight. I cannot steer easily due to the uphill grade (24% by some estimates) and all the rear weight.

It is!
As I posed in another thread...
My rear ballast is full off 3/4" stone for Spring, Summer and Fall and I take about a third of the stone out for winter and plowing snow. Too much weight in the rear (with blade down) kills the 4WD benefits and lessens turning ability on slippery surfaces.

 

[Pixguy]

It is!
As I posed in another thread...
My rear ballast is full off 3/4" stone for Spring, Summer and Fall and I take about a third of the stone out for winter and plowing snow. Too much weight in the rear (with blade down) kills the 4WD benefits and lessens turning ability on slippery surfaces.

I've gotten through my thick skull now that I need to lighten the rear load (just on the tractor)

I'm looking where I can buy a premade box or 3pt hookup to form a cement block.

Any good photos of your box Gizmo? Did you make it yourself?

Tx

 

[Gizmo2]

I use the John Deere Ballast Box. Got this picture off the Internet.
Do a search for "ballast box" here on TBN and you will be amazed at how the people on here have modified them and pretty cool too.

 

[tcreeley]

Try this carryall from Tractor supply. Put a 2x6 platform bed on it and stack some cement blocks. It is great for other things- moving wood, grain, shavings during off times.

CountyLine Carry All - 2128210 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[Pixguy]

Thanks guys, I will look into both ideas! :thumbsup:

 

[Jaylegger]

Should I try another rear weight like a 3pt block?
Load the fronts? Not much added, I hear.
Add front weights?

Tx.

You forgot option #4, just remove the backhoe and call it a day. If the backhoe is causing a light enough front end to affect steering then that';s evidence the, 4X4 engaged, front tires are adding very little if anything to overall traction. With the backhoe removed I can't imagine traction being an issue unless you're on ice, but on the chance the front is still too light there's no place to add suitcase weights due to the front quick hitch so you'll have to be creative. I snow blow one fairly steep grade with pretty much the same equipment as you with no problems at all using turfs. If I start losing steering I just ensure the blower is in "float" or raise it a hair to load the front tires more. You're problem is likely solely due the backhoe and apart from it causing your steering and traction issues the extra weight is adding needlessly to the load on your hydostatic.