Snakebit12
Member
I recently installed a chip & tar finish on a previously graveled 2,000' driveway - it was not cheap. I live on top of a hill and got tired of the steepest section of the driveway washing out under heavy rainfall. It simply was not possible to grade the driveway without having it look like a banked race car track.
To get the water off the new driveway, I had asphalt water bars (look alot like speed bumps) strategically angled across the driveway on some of the steeper sections. With Florence and Michael, these water bars were tested...and passed.
So, I am satisfied with the performance under heavy rainfall. Now, the questions shifts to "How on earth do I get snow off this 2,000' driveway without tearing up the finish?"
I have several Kubota tractors...an M7040, a BX2360 and an old G1800. The former two are 4WD. I also have a 24" self-propelled walk-behind Troy-Built snowblower.
I also have a 7" Blue Diamond hydraulic dozer blade that I have used with the M7040 to plow snow when I was dealing with gravel. This blade is designed for a skid steer and does not work very well on the LA1153 FEL. The weight of both the FEL (1,500 lbs) and the blade (1,000 lbs) fell on two metal mushroom skid shoes - I could not float the blade as it simply buried the skids and dug up the gravel. I eventually learned to hold the blade a few inches off the ground but would inevitably gouge the driveway somewhere along the line.
There is ZERO chance that I will use the blade on the FEL on this new driveway in its current configuration.
I have considered:
1. Using the M7040, bolt on a polyurethane blade to the Blue Diamond blade along with polyurethane skid shoes. I fear that the weight issue will still result in destroying the driveway.
2. Again using the M7040, install a quick-hitch on the 3-point and, in conjunction with the polyurethane blade and skids, plow backwards. I have rear hydraulics so I could control the angle from the cab. This would be more akin to a skid steer arrangement as only the weight of the blade would rest on the skids. I hate the idea of plowing 2,000' backwards.
3. With the BX2360, purchase a front blower ($$$$) and attach polyurethane skids on the blower to prevent it from marring the driveway surface.
4. Again with the BX2360, purchase a rear blower (less $$$$) and attach polyurethane skids. But I am still going backwards.
5. Use the Troy-Built. I would need 3 passes to clear the driveway...that is over a mile of walk-behind snow blowing. Yikes.
6. Simply staying home until the snow melts. Here in Virginia, the snow doesn't stick around for too terribly long.
I appreciate the fact that I will need to mark the edges of the water bars to avoid hitting them using whichever method is most effective.
The amount of know-how on this board is amazing so I am hopeful that someone can point me in the proper direction.
John (aka Snakebit12)
To get the water off the new driveway, I had asphalt water bars (look alot like speed bumps) strategically angled across the driveway on some of the steeper sections. With Florence and Michael, these water bars were tested...and passed.
So, I am satisfied with the performance under heavy rainfall. Now, the questions shifts to "How on earth do I get snow off this 2,000' driveway without tearing up the finish?"
I have several Kubota tractors...an M7040, a BX2360 and an old G1800. The former two are 4WD. I also have a 24" self-propelled walk-behind Troy-Built snowblower.
I also have a 7" Blue Diamond hydraulic dozer blade that I have used with the M7040 to plow snow when I was dealing with gravel. This blade is designed for a skid steer and does not work very well on the LA1153 FEL. The weight of both the FEL (1,500 lbs) and the blade (1,000 lbs) fell on two metal mushroom skid shoes - I could not float the blade as it simply buried the skids and dug up the gravel. I eventually learned to hold the blade a few inches off the ground but would inevitably gouge the driveway somewhere along the line.
There is ZERO chance that I will use the blade on the FEL on this new driveway in its current configuration.
I have considered:
1. Using the M7040, bolt on a polyurethane blade to the Blue Diamond blade along with polyurethane skid shoes. I fear that the weight issue will still result in destroying the driveway.
2. Again using the M7040, install a quick-hitch on the 3-point and, in conjunction with the polyurethane blade and skids, plow backwards. I have rear hydraulics so I could control the angle from the cab. This would be more akin to a skid steer arrangement as only the weight of the blade would rest on the skids. I hate the idea of plowing 2,000' backwards.
3. With the BX2360, purchase a front blower ($$$$) and attach polyurethane skids on the blower to prevent it from marring the driveway surface.
4. Again with the BX2360, purchase a rear blower (less $$$$) and attach polyurethane skids. But I am still going backwards.
5. Use the Troy-Built. I would need 3 passes to clear the driveway...that is over a mile of walk-behind snow blowing. Yikes.
6. Simply staying home until the snow melts. Here in Virginia, the snow doesn't stick around for too terribly long.
I appreciate the fact that I will need to mark the edges of the water bars to avoid hitting them using whichever method is most effective.
The amount of know-how on this board is amazing so I am hopeful that someone can point me in the proper direction.
John (aka Snakebit12)
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