Smooth yard with sprinkler system

[RBLapham]

I've searched for smoothing a yard and all the ways suggested would destroy a sprinkler system. I just bought a new house in TN, I have about 3/4 acre of lawn - fescue. Neighbors said the previous owners had tons of trees planted and removed many, I also took out 6. So the yard has pot holes from the tree removals and then ruts from whatever (possibly from sprinkler system install). Their are too many for just filling by hand, I tried. So the problem is how to smooth out the yard with a sprinkler system installed? I know where the sprinkler heads are but no idea where all the buried pipes are. Holes and ruts are up to 6 inches deep. I am willing to reseed and will probably hire someone.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Part of my business is laser grading football fields, and almost all of them have an irrigation system installed.

If you locate the sprinkler heads, and dig up around them, they usually are attached with a flexible pipe. I suggest you dig them up, and remove the sprinkler head from the flexible pipe, and bury the pipe back into the ground. Then do your leveling. When you are done, turn the sprinkler system on and locate the wet spots where the flexible pipes are, and dig them up and re-install your sprinkler heads.

The head are usually attached with a barb connection. It may be easiest to just cut the flexible pipe at the head when you remove them, then remove the small piece of flex pipe off of the head to re-install. No special tools are needed to install the heads, because they just push on.

Your lateral pipes should be deep enough that you don't have to worry about hitting them, but that's not always the case. The main thing you want to avoid hitting is the valves. There are wires connected to the valves, and it take more work to repair them.

 

[RBLapham]

Good advice on removing the sprinkler heads and sounds quite easy, I hope I don't need to go that far. Possibly just removing the ones in the center of the yard while leaving the edge ones alone. Center ones are about 5, outer about 15. I was hoping to be able to spread topsoil everywhere and where the spots are deep I would reseed. Would a box blade, landscape rake or chain link drag work to smooth out the topsoil? Would like to have most of the lawn survive the process and just seed spots.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Adding soil would be the easiest way to go. And the box blade would be the tool to use to get most of it done. Then drag it with the chain link to finish it off, then seed it and water, water, water it.

 

[jenkinsph]

Good advice from Complete Lawn Care and is what I do.

 

[RBLapham]

Had an estimate from a guy that uses a Bobcat, 4 large truckloads of topsoil at $500 per load, and then the other charges came to almost $3,000. He was going to spread the soil and smooth using the Bobcat bucket. Seems like way too much dirt for a .8 acre property less the ranch house size probably about half the lot. This did not include planting or seeding - just dirt and spreading. I guess I'm back to shovel and rake. What type of business should I be looking for to do this simple task? Don't need yard leveled, just smoothed!

 

[myyaz33]

That amount of topsoil sounds way too much for that size plot but without a better understanding of how many and large the holes are it is possible that much would be needed. I'd be curious of the cubic yds. Anyway that $ seems way to high for that work around my area.

Really the guys gave some good advice. Get some loose dry topsoil delivered and find someone with a loader to dump the bucket in the low areas are smooth out a little by back dragging with the loader. Then i would spread little deposits of the topsoil around the property and drag it with a chain harrow without too much weight to smooth the entire property. Too much weight and you might catch the sprikler heads so be careful. At this time it might be good to aerate too. Then overseed. This should keep you suitable results. If you keep the lawn fairly thick and healthy it is quite so rough mowing.

 

[RBLapham]

Thank you myyas33, I was going to rent one of those walk behind bobcat units and use it. The holes and ruts are only 2 to 6" deep but all over. Settleing from the sprinkler install and heard from neighbors that the builder didn't do a very good job (20 years ago) When mowed the grass is smooth and it looks flat but taking a walk you can twist an ankle real easily. I have a Lawn tractor and plug aerator but will need to rent a drag or find some chain link fence. The dirt he said for $500 a load was pulverized and the truck was the largest dump non-semi. I just had a couple "incidents" at the emergency room so will be going slow at age 72, still too hot here in TN. I'm still looking for someone to hire with a FEL and box blade, reseeding time is still a couple months away.

 

[myyaz33]

If only you were closer, I'd be happy to help you whip this one out in short order. Those mini skid loaders would do the trick but might take longer. If the .9 acres is open, I'd definitely try a larger loader machine if possible. I wouldn't think the box blade would be a necessity with the drag and back dragging of the loader bucket. Good luck.

 

[RBLapham]

Here is a Google earth shot of the yard. back just goes to trees

 

[Dutch445]

have you considered a Johnnybucket jr for your tractor?
you could have the topsoil delivered, then use your own tractor
to move the topsoil around the property to fill in the holes and
back drag to level it out. beats a wheelbarrow!
going around with some sort of drag after would work it into
the low spots, and it doesn't have to be special, a section of
chain link fence should be had for cheap.

 

[RBLapham]

A JB JR would be nice to have, but would probably only use once so renting something would be more econmical. Now if they had a Jr Jr ? The drag - yes some chain link would do, our subdivision does not allow chain link fences so I would need to raid somewhere else

 

[RBLapham]

Drew property lines on picture for better explination of grass area. Leaning toward a Johnny Bucket Jr and a "Landscape Drag". Still have a month or so till grass planting season. May even wait till next year as it isn't a huge problem. Will post results when done.

 

[breadtrk]

I'm up in Ashland City, just west of Nashville. I would love to come help but the fuel costs to get my tractor there and back might make that $500.00 a load dirt seem reasonable. Have you though about getting a craigslist disk to pull behind you tractor? Put some blocks on it to weigh it down and just spend a weekend riding around. The disk will help self level out the ruts then you would only be left with the holes to fill. Do it after rain when the ground will be softer. They also might rejuvenate that Fescue.


Put flags in where the heads are and go around them.

 

[RBLapham]

Yes the transpotation of you tractor would eat up any savings, but thanks for the offer.
I have been checking rental prices, $200 a day for a mini-skid steer, $300 a day for Bobcat or tractor with FEL. My doing it would take a couple days so it may be cost efficent to get my own Jr bucket which can be used for other things also. The JB Jr is $1200, the Deere one is $900 and best choice is a Swisher bucket at $400. The Swisher does not have a power lift and must use a winch or buy an actuator. I have a winch I use for my plug aerator I can use. See http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/268513-aerator-lift-using-winch.html#post3145127
That used my now defunked web pages, so here is a video of the aerator with winch

Also like the idea of not using heavy tractor or skid steers.
All my problems are low spots, no high spots.

 

[RBLapham]

Thanks Dutch 445, the idea of a bucket won. I bought a Deere 40 inch bucket. The Swisher was cheaper but didn't have down force if I used my winch and would need to make a mount for the bucket and winch. The Johnny Bucket Jr would be good, but cost about $400 more than the Deere. The Deere is designed for my X300 and it has down force and power lift and dump. It also has the function to use as a blade.
Started with 6 yards of what they call "Top Soil" for $200 delivered. May need another load next year and hope I can find some Soil/Compost/Sand to top dress it for the smaller bumps. Some pictures below of filled holes and what the previous owners left behind an A frame for a swing that I used to Drag it smooth. Bought a 20 ft chain that was on sale - can use it for other things later.
I started with shovel and wheelbarrow but after about 3 trips my back was hurting. The Deere shovel is a real back saver. I also have some other uses for the shovel for mulching and plants.

 

[RBLapham]

Well it's been a year now since I filled the holes and ruts. I did not try top dressing yet as other projects have taken priority. I did find the Deere 40 inch shovel to be useful last winter when we had 5 inches of snow, rare for southern Tennessee. I cleared my short driveway and sidewalk easily. I'm sorry I left the tire chains in Ohio:grumpy: Here are a couple shots of the lawn - recovered very nicely after aerating and over seeding.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Nice results. That bucket looks like a handy tool.

 

[RBLapham]

It has been over 4 years now and it feels like the bumps have returned to a lesser degree. Feel like I just need to do some top dressing. What would be a good mix for that, mainly to smooth out the slight holes. I have a place that does dirt, top soil, compost, mulch and sand and will mix together whatever I want. Was thinking coarse sand and pulverised topsoil 50-50?