Smart Shop tips!

   / Smart Shop tips! #281  
Peas - I remember a "poem" from when I wuz in 2nd grade -

"I eat my peas with honey, I've done it all my life -
It makes the peas taste funny, but it keeps 'em on the knife" -

(Now, if @ 75 I could just remember where I laid that hammer down) :confused: ... Steve

You guys are doing it all wrong. You pat your potatoes flat and put the peas on top. Then smother with gravy and enjoy.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #283  
Most of my pocket knives have a groove in their blades, if not for eatin' peas, but that could still save me a trip to the kitchen. :cool2:

Terry, If those are punches and dies in the blue rack there doesn't seem to be a sharp punch among 'em. :eek:

Reminds me of the time my dad sharpened my nail set.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #286  
I'm allergic to gravy, white bread, and cake. :D

IMO canned peas are dreadful o'all. Mom cooked up frozen ones, and they were plump with firm skins and a deep green color when served, resembled steamed fresh ones.

That said, peas can be good for bulking-up casseroles, soups, & stews when you run out of corn or chopped celery. :rolleyes:

If gravy is made right peas should stick to you fingers ok and a knife isn't really needed to enjoy 'em in context. :)
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #287  
Dat pea knife in de picture some fancy townfolk hill house cutlery fer sure. We was more den happy to jus take a wide blade knife dat shape and work it on de gap of RR track wid a hammer and spike to punch grove in.

Back den peas all got windrowed and forked onto truck for ride to pea vinery where dey got unpodded.
Best peas God ever made fell off truck vine and all so kids could grab em up and eat dem.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #288  
I was helping a neighbor pick snow peas and got caught eating too many vs filling the box. It's happened with broccoli too. :rolleyes:

btw, my best shop tip for veggies is to eat them in the house vs in the shop. There are more knives to choose from. ;)
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #289  
And all along I thought peas were only good for a pea shooter...!!!
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #290  
I have 5- 10lb. extinguishers, one 5lb. (on my L48), and one 20 lb. In my primary work/storage building.
Both the one in the back of shop view above, and the OP extinguisher. view, appear to be the black plastic handle type.
If so...that is not good!
Plastic grips have been known to fail, when an extinguisher is really needed.
It should also be noted that fire extinguishers have a life expectancy and should be serviced and inspected annually so buying an extinguisher from a big box store hanging it on the wall and expecting it to work ten years later is playing with fire.
In my neighborhood a 911 response time is twenty minutes so we have a fire extinguisher in every building, three in the workshop and one on each level of the house.
I have a local professional fire extinguisher company on auto pilot to come every spring to inspect each unit. The cost is reasonable and the peace of mind priceless.

B. John
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #291  
Custom hooks for those of you who use slatwall..


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   / Smart Shop tips! #292  
It should also be noted that fire extinguishers have a life expectancy and should be serviced and inspected annually so buying an extinguisher from a big box store hanging it on the wall and expecting it to work ten years later is playing with fire.
In my neighborhood a 911 response time is twenty minutes so we have a fire extinguisher in every building, three in the workshop and one on each level of the house.
I have a local professional fire extinguisher company on auto pilot to come every spring to inspect each unit. The cost is reasonable and the peace of mind priceless.

B. John

All my extinguishers were new two years ago, and none have the plastic valve heads, like those from big box stores.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #293  
Reminds me of the time my dad sharpened my nail set.

I had numerous nail sets in my hangar tool box. It was the best tool to punch out the center lock in Cherry Lock rivets. Over time I had to grind them pointed again. Pounding the rivets was hit and miss and usually had to be drilled a little first. I would buy a set of them and grind the larger ones down to fit. I also had small chisel punches ground down to 3/16ths wide to take the collars off of Hi Shear rivets.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #294  
Okay here's another one... if you haven't played around with CA glue with spray accelerator, give it a try. I use it frequently as such temporarily holding something until I get a couple screws or brads in (picture frames, building simple jigs for woodworking, etc. Instant bond. Much faster than just using CA glue. But place the piece exactly where you want it as there is no moving it once it comes in contact.

No wait for glue to dry, no worries about hitting a nail/brad while cutting or drilling, and you can usually snap the wood pieces off with sharp blow if you need to tweak it or salvage the wood for another use. When it fails the wood tends to be intact.
OK, another use for CA glue.
Not sure this approved by the FDA but....
If you have one of those pesky wood or metal slivers in your paw that simply will not yield to the usual removal techniques, drip a little dollup of CA glue on the area and give it a spritz of accelerator. Give the chemistry a minute or more to work and pick off the glue spot.
Nine times out of ten the sliver will come out with the glue.

Round two: Snag a fingernail and know it will hurt like heck to pull it the rest of the way off.
Reach for the CA and spread a drop or two over the top of the nail. Add a little spritz, wait a few minutes and buff with a nail file or a little 180 grit emery paper. Good as new and will last for weeks.
As the ole sailor says, any port in a storm....

B. John
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #295  
CA glue works well to glue cuts back together too. Just make sure the cut is clean and just a dot of the thin stuff will do.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #296  
There's a YT vid of a guy building up a guitar's upper bridge in situ with a CA/baking soda mix. He would re-groove it to raise strings above the fret-board at the top of the neck. (Wrapped strings can carve 'em down after years/decades of replacing/tuning 'em. You guys knew that. :))

I've tried the new UV-activated clear stuff that crossed over from dental bonding. End results resemble what Seal-All dries like but a little tougher. Fills or builds up areas almost as fast as one can squeeze drops out of the applicator. 4 sec from the UV light and you can pile on and harden additional layers if/as needed.

A recent use was when a tachometer needle's tiny hub split & crumbled away, and I needed a fix vs a make-do. It took ~5 min to build up a new hub on the back, maybe 8 or 9 drops stacked and cured one by one. I found an orifice drill to give a light press fit onto the tach's shaft and had the whole bit reassembled and running in about the time I could have posted here for help.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #297  
Chain storage idea
Harbor Freight and hunting departments sell small block and tackle sets for field dressing large game. 6 to 1 mechanical advantage, 10# of pull to lift 60# chain.
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Chain prep: grab both hooks drag chain until straight. Now drag hooks back to center point. Opposite end is the 1/4 and 3/4 points. Install quick links here, they will be the lift points for the hoist. Some additional hardware for rope storage.

Chains don't get tangled, take longer to rust.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #298  
Homemade heavy duty hinge A.K.A. Mother of Piano Hinges

Bought 1/4" spring steel piano wire from hobby shop, 12 hinges from Menards. Removed hinge pins, ran 1/4" drill thru hinge parts, reassembled on 4' piano wires.
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96 wood screws later, have large under stairs door for chemical storage. No problems in 16 years.
 
   / Smart Shop tips!
  • Thread Starter
#299  
CA glue works well to glue cuts back together too. Just make sure the cut is clean and just a dot of the thin stuff will do.
BUT DO NOT USE THE SPRAY ACCELERATOR!

I cut my finger bad one evening earlier this year but waited to go into the doctor until the next morning. The doctor looked at it and said it was really too late to stitch it up and used some 'medical' grade CA. A day later I was back in my shop and accidentally opened the wound up grabbing something and decided to self doctor using my own CA. Hurried the process using the spray and OMG! That stung!
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #300  
Most probably know this already but if you are needing to find the center of round stock to drill a hole, the quickest way I have found is to use a ruler or something straight on top of the round stock, then place the drill bit on top of the ruler. As the material is moved back and forth, the ruler will rock from side to side accordingly. Once the ruler is straight you are in the center of the material, or at least close enough for most purposes. The same can be done on a lathe to get the cutting bit in center.

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