Slave Cylinder - suggestion to free and or rebuild
- Thread starter LodiCal
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- hydraulic hydraulic valve
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
They don't look like valves to me. More like slave cylinders. I have no idea who may have made them.
OP
LodiCal
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- Lodi, CA
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- John Deere D130, 790 & 5103, 1979 Rotheisler Kangaroo (1968 Massey Ferguson 135 - sold)
Yes, thank you Harry. I have a PM that says they are 1" bore Wagner brand slave cylinders. I will edit the thread from: "Hydraulic Valve ID and suggestions to Free and or rebuild" to "Slave Cylinder - suggestion to free and or rebuild"
Leejohn
Elite Member
I would take it off, take the bleed screw out. Tap piston in as far as it well go. Clean real good, sand paper what you can. Put light oil in, come back the next day. Drain the oil and hope it pulls out. If not try air pressure in the bleed hole. Put rag over the end and don't let anyone be in front of it. Do not use the hose side that might have a check valve in it.
mrmikey
Elite Member
Replace the bleed screw with a grease fitting and try using a grease gun to force them out.
true temper
Silver Member
Good idea on using grease to get them out.
Problem is a regular zirk won’t be the right thread.
What kind of machine are we working on?
Problem is a regular zirk won’t be the right thread.
What kind of machine are we working on?
OP
LodiCal
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- John Deere D130, 790 & 5103, 1979 Rotheisler Kangaroo (1968 Massey Ferguson 135 - sold)
Good evening True. I am working on a Rotheisler Kangaroo. See the following thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/rotheisler-kangaroo.440805/
In regard to the threads on the slave cylinder, I am guessing that it is a "standard" thread of some sort as I found several videos on YouTube utilizing a grease gun where they swapped out the bleeder valve for a Zerk.
mrmikey
Elite Member
May be able to cobble something up using the input fitting instead of the bleeder screw?
OP
LodiCal
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- Lodi, CA
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- John Deere D130, 790 & 5103, 1979 Rotheisler Kangaroo (1968 Massey Ferguson 135 - sold)
This guy uses diesel fuel instead of grease and remarks that grease is quite messy.
How to Unstick Frozen Brake Caliper Pistons
How to Unstick Frozen Brake Caliper Pistons
rbrown225
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Try pulling the cylinder and bleed screw, then put in a pan/cup with vinegar and let soak for about a week. I have never tried on a cylinder but have used on several other items. it will bubble and turn black when done pull it out and wash in solvent. Have used to free up several pulleys and lead screw items.
pacosperson
Bronze Member
I have a device made by KD Tools (#416) used to blow hardened grease out of grease fitting. It’s a hand held piston assembly you fill with oil, put against a grease fitting, and hit with a hammer. It works very well on straight fittings but would simply break off a 90 degree one. I’ve had this since the 70’s, rarely use it, but others know I have it so it gets loaned out. I just looked it up and the first one I found on the net was $70!!!!. You may know someone who has one or could fabricate one. It’s a pretty simple device. Look it up. These things really work in applications like yours. You’re just trying to get that piston to budge a bit, after that it will move.
There is a pretty good chance the cylinders are shot because of corrosion caused pitting. Look up shops that rebuild brake wheel cylinders by boring the cylinder out and sleeving it with a SS sleeve. They will remove the old piston as part of the rebuild.
I use White Post Restorations to do my antique truck wheel cylinders.
I use White Post Restorations to do my antique truck wheel cylinders.
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
If soaking in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF won't free things up, you'll probably have to resort to some sort of violence.
Or buy similar new cylinders and adapt them to the mounts.
Or buy similar new cylinders and adapt them to the mounts.
jigs_n_fixtures
Veteran Member
Do not use compressed air.
Background: A lot of the slave cylinders, had iron bodies, and aluminum pistons. So, when they set for a long time there can be dissimilar metal corrosion and lock things up pretty tight. You may need to put the push rod in, and give it a few good wraps with a hammer to break things free.
I'd try the grease first. Your going to have to clean them up to rebuild them, and may need to have them sleeved, bored, and honed to get a good seal. So, the mess of grease isn't an issue in my mind.
Next, I'd try adapting the pump from the 10-ton porta-power the discharge line, and use it to pump it out. But the grease gun will develop quite bit of pressure and should work.
Background: A lot of the slave cylinders, had iron bodies, and aluminum pistons. So, when they set for a long time there can be dissimilar metal corrosion and lock things up pretty tight. You may need to put the push rod in, and give it a few good wraps with a hammer to break things free.
I'd try the grease first. Your going to have to clean them up to rebuild them, and may need to have them sleeved, bored, and honed to get a good seal. So, the mess of grease isn't an issue in my mind.
Next, I'd try adapting the pump from the 10-ton porta-power the discharge line, and use it to pump it out. But the grease gun will develop quite bit of pressure and should work.
