Skid Shoe repair.

[kydick]

better yet get some thick truck leaf springs. they are tougher than the bar steel. you can weld the toe of the shoe and with a torch heat the spring steel and weld it as you go to the end of it. i have a 8ft disc mower with the same shoes that came on it 17 years ago. i have replaced the steel on them only 2 times in 17 years. i mowed 400 acres for the first 12 years and just 120 acres these last 5 years. i like truck springs they tough and last a long time. i have even welded spring steel on my turning plow points when they got worn out. i drew a picture of the point when it was new and got the measurements so when i got ready to weld it i could have the same size point as when it was new.

 

[5030]

I hard rod everything that slides in contact with the ground. I use Lincoln ground contact hard rod (SMAW) reverse polarity. It ain't cheap (about 150 bucks per 10 pound box today) but better than replacing skid shoes and overall cheaper.

 

[Smokeydog]

Bought 20 year newer 286 bush hog this spring. It’s skids had worn thru at the front corner. More from improper adjustment than hours of use. OEM parts too expensive.

Two piece, front with bend 2.5” wide and 1.5” wide side strip.
Have 3”x0.5” CR flat bar scrap to repair. Cold rolled will not bend 45degrees cold before cracking. Takes heat. Have to countersink for flathead screws.
Have similar issue with EA land plane. Both winter time jobs.
Been over thirty years since I ran hard surface rod. Remember even new rod ran better fresh out of the oven. $40 of rod should do both repairs and last for a couple of decades.

 

[5030]

Just be aware that the hard rod sold on Amazon, most of it requires very serious pre heating, way higher than any rod box will attain. Made that mistake one time because the price was inviting and when I received it, the instructions stated you had to pre-heat the rod too 450 degrees prior to using and that is a real PITA for me. The Lincoln Earth contact, high manganese sticks have to be dry (obviously as all rods need to be but dry as in a heated rod box), not baked in an oven.

Have 25 pounds of the Amazon stuff sitting on the shelf in an unopened box you can have if you want it, you pay the postage and I'll send it to you. Jus shoot me a PM and it's yours.

I regularly replace my skid shoes on my shredders, not because they are set up incorrectly but because I always have them set low to the ground and while I don't own (anymore), a box blade, I always hard rod the lower leading and trailing edges of them, if you don't they get eroded away pretty quickly.

 

[BufordBoone]

Bought 20 year newer 286 bush hog this spring. It’s skids had worn thru at the front corner. More from improper adjustment than hours of use. OEM parts too expensive.
View attachment 756814
Two piece, front with bend 2.5” wide and 1.5” wide side strip.
Have 3”x0.5” CR flat bar scrap to repair. Cold rolled will not bend 45degrees cold before cracking. Takes heat. Have to countersink for flathead screws.
Have similar issue with EA land plane. Both winter time jobs.
Been over thirty years since I ran hard surface rod. Remember even new rod ran better fresh out of the oven. $40 of rod should do both repairs and last for a couple of decades.

The skid shoes for my rotary cutter are $50 each. The ones for my LPGS are $80 each. I need two on each implement.

I understand those that say improper adjustment on the rotary cutter leads to wear but the LPGS is DESIGNED to drag on the ground.

Anyway, I bought 10 lbs of hardfacing rod for $110 (the smallest amount the LWS would sell). I plan to run some beads and see how that works.

 

[5030]

I bought 10 lbs of hardfacing rod for $110 (the smallest amount the LWS would sell).

Keep in mind that pre prep is everything when hard rodding and most rod don't cotton to overlaying beads either and it has to be dry or your results will be disappointing. I always replace my skids with hard rodded mild steel strap. OEM replacement are typically overpriced anyway. You want to produce a 'V' with hard rod at the contact point of the skid and run parallel stringers down it to the end. Form the steel and drill and tap it before hand.

 

[BufordBoone]

Keep in mind that pre prep is everything when hard rodding and most rod don't cotton to overlaying beads either and it has to be dry or your results will be disappointing. I always replace my skids with hard rodded mild steel strap. OEM replacement are typically overpriced anyway. You want to produce a 'V' with hard rod at the contact point of the skid and run parallel stringers down it to the end. Form the steel and drill and tap it before hand.

Thanks for that.

I quickly found out that I need to build the skid shoes back up before running hardfacing on them. When I tried to lay a bead down, it burned right thru. I thought "That is 1/4" metal, why did it burn thru".

The worn part ain't 1/4" no more. If it was, I'd not need to do anything....DUH!

This has become more of a "Welding and grinding practice" project but, that is OK. If I totally mess it up there is not much lost.

Thanks, for all the replies.