Skid Shoe repair.

[BufordBoone]

My bushhogs and LPGS have skid shoes that are replaceable. I've had to replace all of them once and am about to put a new set on my 6' cutter.

As expected, replacements are expensive. A 1/4" piece of steel, 2" wide and 19 5/8" long with one bend for $50. The "worn out" ones are only worn at the bend. That leaves a lot of metal that could be cut from one and welded to another.

Prior to reading this forum I'd never have worried about changing the hardness of a piece of metal but my questions about a disc produced much info that makes me think.

So, anyone got any reason I shouldn't cut one of the old sets of shoes apart and weld to another old set to create a serviceable skid shoe for the next time they need changing?

I'm going to need to figure out how, with minimal tools available, to bend the steel but that shouldn't be hard.

I gave thought to cutting out the worn section and welding in a new section and then I realized "Its a skid shoe. Adding another layer will only result in 1/4" less minimum cutting height...on a bushhog!"

Lastly, I know some will respond about "What is your time worth?" For a guy learning to weld and looking for projects, I think it would be well worth the time.

 

[Raul-02]

you wannna bend a couple inches of 1/4" steel?
If you have a couple propane torches you can heat it and bend it.

I bent the daylights outta my post hole digger it was too much for my torches. So I used my TIG torch to heat it to glowing and hammered it straight. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that using a carbon rod one could use a stick welder to the same effect.

 

[LouNY]

You don't need a torch to bend 2" wide 1/4" flat stock just clamp it in a vise and bend it.

 

[Raul-02]

just clamp it in a vise and bend it.

I needed a torch before I had a heavy vice. I'm guessing he ain't git one of those.
The number of things that expensive honking vice will do and do better than almost anything else is astonishing. But until you realize this the cost seems excessive.

 

[Tinhack]

Save money. Stop dragging your implements on the ground. That's what the lift lever is for--You can adjust the height.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I wouldn't remove the old one, just weld a new flat bar on the worn out one, tack weld the new flat bar on one end and hammer it until its shape to the existing one and weld the rest. Also you don't have to bend it in one shot you can do it in section inch by inch tack weld hammer it in and repeat, even if you have a small gap tack weld it and hammer it down while its still red and that will pull it together.

But a vice is a good investment.

 

[flyerdan]

When you get the new parts welded up, run a few beads of Stellite hard surface rod over the wear areas and never worry about them again. It's amazing how well it keeps things from wearing.

 

[Raul-02]

ust weld a new flat bar on the worn out one, tack weld the new flat bar on one end and hammer it until its shape to the existing one and weld the rest.

I like that approach

 

[Fallon]

Who cares if it's softer than the origional? You have a welder. Just weld on a new patch when you wear out this patch. It's a tractor in a field doing 5, not a trailer doing 65 down the freeway that could kill people if a weld fails.

Of you care enough to make it last, spend the money on hard facing rod. It's not like the welds need to be pretty in the slightest either. They only exist to get ground & worn down.

 

[grsthegreat]

my shoes were optional standard or hardened steel. got the hardened..10 years ago,. still going strong

 

[kydick]

better yet get some thick truck leaf springs. they are tougher than the bar steel. you can weld the toe of the shoe and with a torch heat the spring steel and weld it as you go to the end of it. i have a 8ft disc mower with the same shoes that came on it 17 years ago. i have replaced the steel on them only 2 times in 17 years. i mowed 400 acres for the first 12 years and just 120 acres these last 5 years. i like truck springs they tough and last a long time. i have even welded spring steel on my turning plow points when they got worn out. i drew a picture of the point when it was new and got the measurements so when i got ready to weld it i could have the same size point as when it was new.

 

[5030]

I hard rod everything that slides in contact with the ground. I use Lincoln ground contact hard rod (SMAW) reverse polarity. It ain't cheap (about 150 bucks per 10 pound box today) but better than replacing skid shoes and overall cheaper.

 

[Smokeydog]

Bought 20 year newer 286 bush hog this spring. It’s skids had worn thru at the front corner. More from improper adjustment than hours of use. OEM parts too expensive.

Two piece, front with bend 2.5” wide and 1.5” wide side strip.
Have 3”x0.5” CR flat bar scrap to repair. Cold rolled will not bend 45degrees cold before cracking. Takes heat. Have to countersink for flathead screws.
Have similar issue with EA land plane. Both winter time jobs.
Been over thirty years since I ran hard surface rod. Remember even new rod ran better fresh out of the oven. $40 of rod should do both repairs and last for a couple of decades.

 

[5030]

Just be aware that the hard rod sold on Amazon, most of it requires very serious pre heating, way higher than any rod box will attain. Made that mistake one time because the price was inviting and when I received it, the instructions stated you had to pre-heat the rod too 450 degrees prior to using and that is a real PITA for me. The Lincoln Earth contact, high manganese sticks have to be dry (obviously as all rods need to be but dry as in a heated rod box), not baked in an oven.

Have 25 pounds of the Amazon stuff sitting on the shelf in an unopened box you can have if you want it, you pay the postage and I'll send it to you. Jus shoot me a PM and it's yours.

I regularly replace my skid shoes on my shredders, not because they are set up incorrectly but because I always have them set low to the ground and while I don't own (anymore), a box blade, I always hard rod the lower leading and trailing edges of them, if you don't they get eroded away pretty quickly.

 

[BufordBoone]

Bought 20 year newer 286 bush hog this spring. It’s skids had worn thru at the front corner. More from improper adjustment than hours of use. OEM parts too expensive.
View attachment 756814
Two piece, front with bend 2.5” wide and 1.5” wide side strip.
Have 3”x0.5” CR flat bar scrap to repair. Cold rolled will not bend 45degrees cold before cracking. Takes heat. Have to countersink for flathead screws.
Have similar issue with EA land plane. Both winter time jobs.
Been over thirty years since I ran hard surface rod. Remember even new rod ran better fresh out of the oven. $40 of rod should do both repairs and last for a couple of decades.

The skid shoes for my rotary cutter are $50 each. The ones for my LPGS are $80 each. I need two on each implement.

I understand those that say improper adjustment on the rotary cutter leads to wear but the LPGS is DESIGNED to drag on the ground.

Anyway, I bought 10 lbs of hardfacing rod for $110 (the smallest amount the LWS would sell). I plan to run some beads and see how that works.

 

[5030]

I bought 10 lbs of hardfacing rod for $110 (the smallest amount the LWS would sell).

Keep in mind that pre prep is everything when hard rodding and most rod don't cotton to overlaying beads either and it has to be dry or your results will be disappointing. I always replace my skids with hard rodded mild steel strap. OEM replacement are typically overpriced anyway. You want to produce a 'V' with hard rod at the contact point of the skid and run parallel stringers down it to the end. Form the steel and drill and tap it before hand.

 

[BufordBoone]

Keep in mind that pre prep is everything when hard rodding and most rod don't cotton to overlaying beads either and it has to be dry or your results will be disappointing. I always replace my skids with hard rodded mild steel strap. OEM replacement are typically overpriced anyway. You want to produce a 'V' with hard rod at the contact point of the skid and run parallel stringers down it to the end. Form the steel and drill and tap it before hand.

Thanks for that.

I quickly found out that I need to build the skid shoes back up before running hardfacing on them. When I tried to lay a bead down, it burned right thru. I thought "That is 1/4" metal, why did it burn thru".

The worn part ain't 1/4" no more. If it was, I'd not need to do anything....DUH!

This has become more of a "Welding and grinding practice" project but, that is OK. If I totally mess it up there is not much lost.

Thanks, for all the replies.