Buying Advice Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp

   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #21  
It's missing the FEL specs. :)

Thanks for the info on your use too.

Found this in a review
REVIEWER'S ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Pros: Starts good and runs well.

A 2615 is not a heavy duty tractor for heavy lifting jobs.

Cons: Not enough power to lift things over 1,000 pounds with the bucket.

Should be at least a 40 hps tractor.
Type of User: Homeowner 1-10 Acres
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I saw that but you don't need 40HP to lift over 1,000 pounds either so I chalked it up to a review to ignore. Many others state that it's powerful for it's size.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #23  
I saw that but you don't need 40HP to lift over 1,000 pounds either so I chalked it up to a review to ignore. Many others state that it's powerful for it's size.

but you don't need 40HP to lift over 1,000 pounds either

Agree

a Branson 2515 is a good example of that - 25 HP, FEL rated 2200 lb to full height at the pin.

a Mahindra 4530 32 PTO HP- FEL lifts 2950 lb full height at pin.

a Kubota 3901 37 HP FEL 1131 lb to full height at pin

Engine HP has little to do with FEL capabilities.

tractor frame size, axle strength, weight and tire size is usually more telling than HP.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #24  
Concur with what jeff9366 posted with one comment: one the thing to keep in mind is that the larger/wider the tractor the wider the width of implement needed to fully clear the tractor's tires. Granted needing to fully clear the width of the tractor with an implement isn't always required, but sometimes (like with snow removal) it can make a difference.

So with powered implements the available hp per foot of implement working width should also be considered .... as it doesn't always work out in favor of the larger machine (even with more available hp it brings) when it comes to powered implements.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #25  
.....- I specifically wanted the tier four, as the fumes are half what my Kubota was - and it makes a difference when you are starting it in a closed garage .

I’m sure you realize this, but it’s worth repeating, that just because Tier IV filters particles, and you may not taste or smell the exhaust as much, it’s still poisoning the air, it’s still depleting the room of breathable oxygen. It still will kill you in a closed garage.

...and faster if you have to run Tier IV at a higher rpm and exhaust fumes aren’t as noticeable.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp
  • Thread Starter
#26  
The Mahindra is out, I went to check it out his AM and it was sold. I'm back on the CK's again... :)
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #27  
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp
  • Thread Starter
#28  
That's a nice deal, I'll have to think on that.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #29  
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #30  
JME81 for what you need whatever you do 24 horse 35 horse if you’re a New England and you’re going to plow snow get a freaking cab
Don’t be a cheapskate get the biggest and best tractor you can afford my Lord man there’s 0% financing for 84 months that’s free money you got $10,000 to put down go for it get yourself a $25,000 tractor or a $20,000 tractor brand new your payments will be nothing. You’ll be happy you did I’m not telling you to get a 40 horse just get things that will be comfortable and get the job done end of story quit Dicken around
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp
  • Thread Starter
#31  
JME81 for what you need whatever you do 24 horse 35 horse if you’re a New England and you’re going to plow snow get a freaking cab
Don’t be a cheapskate get the biggest and best tractor you can afford my Lord man there’s 0% financing for 84 months that’s free money you got $10,000 to put down go for it get yourself a $25,000 tractor or a $20,000 tractor brand new your payments will be nothing. You’ll be happy you did I’m not telling you to get a 40 horse just get things that will be comfortable and get the job done end of story quit Dicken around

I'd love to have a cab, I'm the only one working as my wife is a stay at home mom. If I keep saving up, the payments will be fairly low. What I'm more concerned about are the summers, that's when I'd be using it the most when it's nice out. I don't want to swealter in the cab- I'm concerned that the a/c would rob my PTO for the work I need to complete.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #32  
I'm going through this right now. Bought a 25 horse to avoid emissions and regretted it the first time I tried to pull my box blade up my gravel driveway. Not enough power for a tractor of this size! Now literally two weeks later I'm shopping tractors all over again.

GET MORE POWER THE FIRST TIME. Don't be a bone head like me.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #33  
I went with 44 engine hp / 36 pto hp and a cab out the starting gate. I’ve ran much larger AG equipment, as a teen, and know hp and weight gets the job done. I’d error on going as large as you can, given the use case, than seek a replacement later.

-Chris
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #34  
I'm going through this right now. Bought a 25 horse to avoid emissions and regretted it the first time I tried to pull my box blade up my gravel driveway. Not enough power for a tractor of this size! Now literally two weeks later I'm shopping tractors all over again.

GET MORE POWER THE FIRST TIME. Don't be a bone head like me.

Not enough power or not enough traction? What does it do?
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #35  
Not enough power or not enough traction? What does it do?

Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #36  
Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.

Good advice,..... but if you are patient, and look around, you just might find a good used tractor.....without "the ridiculous EPA mandates"
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #37  
Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.

Have to ask: When it bogs down, you’re lifting up on the pedal and going slower?
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #38  
Also, low range should be used for "heavy digging" with the box blade. I used to use a 54" box blade with a little 25hp SCUT, scarifiers all the way down, in a 25 year old hard packed stone road... you are not going to do it fast....

Maybe, you will be able to mow in medium, not high range. Any ground engagement should be in low!

I have been able to spin the tires on mine (16x43-20) trying to pull out stumps without stalling the 25hp.....
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #39  
I'd love to have a cab, I'm the only one working as my wife is a stay at home mom. If I keep saving up, the payments will be fairly low. What I'm more concerned about are the summers, that's when I'd be using it the most when it's nice out. I don't want to swealter in the cab- I'm concerned that the a/c would rob my PTO for the work I need to complete.

My CUT is DIY cabbed.

Roof is galvanized steel (no rust) but I did add a mere 1/4" insulation (aircraft material).*
For summer I remove the door and I've installed 2ea 5 inch 12 volt computer muffin fans**.
Surprisingly enough those fans move enough air that 90 degree summer air is actually fairly comfortable plus another advantage is to keep the bugs out.

*the initial plan was to deter drumming from the large metal surface.
** super compact, low amps and highly efficient.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #40  
Have to ask: When it bogs down, you’re lifting up on the pedal and going slower?

Yes, but generally it's of no use. The power just isn't there.

Also, low range should be used for "heavy digging" with the box blade. I used to use a 54" box blade with a little 25hp SCUT, scarifiers all the way down, in a 25 year old hard packed stone road... you are not going to do it fast....

Maybe, you will be able to mow in medium, not high range. Any ground engagement should be in low!

I have been able to spin the tires on mine (16x43-20) trying to pull out stumps without stalling the 25hp.....

Absolutely. In low range she'll spin all 4 trying to pull anything. Problem is that in medium range it's on the ragged edge of being able to work hard, and I don't always want to put around at 2 MPH. And my primary use of high range is transport: i.e., traveling down gravel roads. Even at 2,600 RPM it won't handle hills and bogs down immediately. I can release pressure to slow down but it doesn't matter. If it's an especially steep hill (say, 6% grade ) then I have to stop and downshift to medium because I know it'll stall if I try to drive up in high.

If it behaves this way now, it will just immediately throw in the towel later down the road when I hook a finish mower to the back and try to mow hills in medium range. I don't see that being very pleasant.
 

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