Sickle Bar Section Rivets vs Bolts

beenthere · Jun 6, 2011

Thanks Tx Jim.
I was wondering how to say that (you said it best), but figured it would become apparent when rendering the big hammer blows.

Takes a good, healthy vise on a solid bench like a blacksmith would have (or a farmer).

sjbrunk0 · Jun 30, 2011

That makes a lot of sense, thanks.

My sections are in pretty good shape at the moment, but will try that out next time I have to replace some.

After I ran the sickle mower for an hour or so I checked the sections and one had worked its way loose.

I used a 3/4" ratchet extension standing on my concrete pad as a tiny anvil that could tuck in behind the rivet so I could whack on it some more. Guess that would be another advantage for bolts... easier to replace just one or two sections without taking everything apart.

Thanks for the great advice, I think I'm all set on this now!

SPYDERLK · Jun 30, 2011

Bolts allow you to replace sections without removing the sickle bar. I always put a small amt of #638 Loctite on the bottom back portion of the sickle section where it is clamped to the bar, and also on the bottom surface of each nut [not the threads]. Loctite offers very good strength in shear. Between the clamping and the broad surface bond the sickles never move.
larry

Kyle_in_Tex · Jul 17, 2011

After pricing everything to put new sections on a knife, my dealer offered me a bit of a discount on a complete new knife with all new sections ready to just slide in place. I want to say it was a bit over $100 for a 9'. If you value your time outside in 102 degree heat, it made it a no brainer for my little brain. I've had to replace a few sections and I'm using the special bolts and nuts. The bolts need to be driven in as they have splines that are oversized to create a "pressed in" condition. So far, they've been working but I'm not a "high time" user. I mainly use it to trim my 2 acre pond that has 3200' of shoreline (2 tributaries).

For years I've fought the outer shoe/ divider end with the special knives, section and shimming #24. It would usually loose the rivets and clog while pond trimming. I decided to just remove it all and give up the last special section. I wish I'd done this 5 years ago, it would have saved me hours and $$$ as this has been the "thorn" in this 350 cutter.

Since I have coastal grass hay, you have to rake into windrows anyway to bale, so far, it's not been a problem since my hay is so thin due to drought.

RickB · Jul 17, 2011

Most folks that prefer rivets over bolts fall into two groups:

1. Never tried bolts.

2. Tried to use bolts in a bar that had worn holes from running riveted sections loose.

There's nothing wrong with converting a riveted bar to bolted sections, even one section at a time. But a junk bar is still junk no matter how you fasten the sections.

Kyle_in_Tex · Jul 17, 2011

Well, the price of the complete knife/section/cutterbar is now $205 dollars for an overserrated 36 section 9 foot assembly. Still not ridiculous considering the time it can save you if all your sections are worn/rusted out. PS, I have the heavy duty "C-clamp" rivet remover/installer tool and it works pretty good if you keep it greased and use a good 1/2" impact driver air tool to work it. Grinding off the head of the rivets and punching them out is just as easy, so I mainly use the installer end of the tool.

Firebrick43 · Dec 11, 2011

Find a Johnson sickle servicer. I can completely rebuild a bar in under 30 mins. It shears the section off, punches out the rivits, and perfectly forms a head on the new rivet all without a hammer or anvil. I used to use bolts but have gone back to rivits because of this tool.

If you take a piece of synthetic braided rope about 8 or 9' long with a piece of 1 1/2" dowel rod for a handle you can pull a knife in under a min making it much easier to work on instead of clunky tools with the knife installed. I have two knives, switch out at lunch and rework/sharpen them in about 1/2 hour after done so they are ready for the next mowing session