Show What Tool You Made*

[aczlan]

that's the thing. I replied late at night and actually went back to the page a few times and I was right after the post about the magnet..then it was moved..but its all good

By default, the TBN forum software puts posts on the order of the time/date when they were posted. If you hit "reply with quote" you will have a copy of the post you are replaying to in your post.

Aaron Z

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Just did the timing belt on my son's Jetta. Yet again another example of the people that build stuff never having to work on it.

16mm socket needed to remove the motor mounts but the bolt is recessed in the mount too far for a standard socket and the body is in the way to use a deep socket or extension. Took a spare 16mm and 10mm, cut about 1/4" off the 10mm to get the right length and welded them together. Deep socket is there as a comparison for length.

To adjust the tension pulley, I couldn't find my snap-ring pliers which would have worked so I had to come up with something else. Using a method suggested earlier in this thread, a couple stubbs of welding rod fit the holes perfectly so I welded them to the side of another spare socket. Worked great until I realized that I couldn't tighten the center bolt with the modified socket in place so I made the next tool.

Used a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 flat, narrowed the end to 3/8" then drilled a couple holes for more welding stubbs and tacked them in. When my mechanic buddy came over to verify timing prior to reassembly, he asked for snap-ring pliers and I handed this to him. He was impressed.

 

[jaotguy]

next time look for a grinder wrench ... a handle with 2 pins and the center between the pins hollowed out .... ( a long Y )

BTW , what year Jetta?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

next time look for a grinder wrench ... a handle with 2 pins and the center between the pins hollowed out .... ( a long Y )

BTW , what year Jetta?

Ya, I can never find my grinder wrenches when I need them for the grinder, never mind other uses. I'm skeptical that they would have fit anyway. Good thought though.

2002 with the 2.0 motor and about 235,000 km on the original belt

 

[RitchElbe]

I always use my welpers when I need to remove something from the grinder.

 

[jaotguy]

makita ones for the 9005B fit the rear calipers ... and Bosch / B&D / , all use different sizes ...

that's a lot on the belt . try to hold it under 140K between changes ... and YES they are a pain to change ... I've used a pair of long needle nosed pliers too...


get ready ... slide under and make sure the VNT actuator is working , they tend to stick and the motors go into limp mode ...

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

makita ones for the 9005B fit the rear calipers ... and Bosch / B&D / , all use different sizes ...

that's a lot on the belt . try to hold it under 140K between changes ... and YES they are a pain to change ... I've used a pair of long needle nosed pliers too...

get ready ... slide under and make sure the VNT actuator is working , they tend to stick and the motors go into limp mode ...

I'll have to try that on the rear calipers...brakes is next weekend. Bought the car with 225k on it front the original owner and just finally had time to get to it.

What's the VNT actuator?

 

[jaotguy]

if your car has a turbo .. ( most do, varoom ) it is the tin can underneath and beside the exhaust that pushes and pulls the variable vanes on the turbo .... closes when running slow ( to bring boost on early ) and opens the vanes when the motor starts to rev ( to maintain a safe boost level ) ... so you don't blow head gaskets from too much pressure ...

front ones just push in with a big C clamp ...

you can also do the rear calipers by using your pins and a socket ( like you did before ) and a big C clamp ....
compress the piston slightly , and turn the socket with pliers to walk the piston in a bit , tighten , twist , repeat ...

watch for the park brake actuators ( levers on the back of the calipers ) the rubber boots fail and the levers seize in the ON position.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

if your car has a turbo .. ( most do, varoom ) it is the tin can underneath and beside the exhaust that pushes and pulls the variable vanes on the turbo .... closes when running slow ( to bring boost on early ) and opens the vanes when the motor starts to rev ( to maintain a safe boost level ) ... so you don't blow head gaskets from too much pressure ...

front ones just push in with a big C clamp ...

you can also do the rear calipers by using your pins and a socket ( like you did before ) and a big C clamp ....
compress the piston slightly , and turn the socket with pliers to walk the piston in a bit , tighten , twist , repeat ...

watch for the park brake actuators ( levers on the back of the calipers ) the rubber boots fail and the levers seize in the ON position.

No turbo, not on the 2.0s we have. The 1.8T is certainly nice to drive by comparason.

I made this doing the brakes on the other son's jetta:

Was doing rear wheel bearings & brakes on my Son's Jetta. Rear calipers are a stupid screw-in design rather than the normal push in style. Mechanic buddy of mine lent me his snap-on set doing the first side but had to give it back before I got to the second after fighting with the bearing for a week. Dug thru the "too good or too many to throw out" bins and made this in about 15 min which is about the same amount of time it would have taken to drive to his house and back.

View attachment 343278

View attachment 343279

Did the job and actually worked about as poorly and the snap-on one did. As a bonus, the head is removable to compress regular calipers if I want rather than using a big C clamp.

 

[jaotguy]

lovely !!!! :thumbsup: