shop door, needs replacement,

[BHD]

I have a old fiberglass roll up shop door, I bought it used for 35 dollars when I made the old barn into a shop, it was wore then and now nearly 20 years later it is really wore out and I had a goat that got in the shop and the door was up about a foot and he exited and took out the bottom panel,

I have a high delectable on the insurance on the building and the insurance would cover less than 50% of the doors cost, the prices I have got so far are $1800 to $2400,

was thinking maybe I could build some thing much cheaper,


my son was talking about a new shop door his boss just put in on there shop it is a one piece hydraulic lift, hanger type door,
I have seen some bi fold doors as well,

My door is 13 x13 rough size, I do not like the idea or the weight of a 13 x13 foot panel stuck out in the wind, like on the hydraulic doors, the bi fold door has some appeal as I could put a walk in door in the unit and some windows that would let in light and could see out of, I realize that a bi fold or hydraulic lift could cost more than a slider it would be power lift,

any other Ideas?


I am not really fond of sliders they could work, as there is room,

the pictures are not the best but gives on some idea of what I am trying to put a door on, (the walk in door does not enter the shop area, it goes in to a side room and then it enters about 20 feet in,

the tin was used take off that has set for some time, the price was right, and hope to paint it some time soon,

 

[mjncad]

I think a standard roll-up door is going to be your best bet. Whether you can build replacement panels is known only to you based on your skills and tools, and the condition of the existing tracks, springs, etc.

Another type of roll-up door doesn't use panels; but is corrugated and rolls into a drum mounted above the header. These are generally used in industrial settings and have the advantage of saving ceiling space that could be used for electric lighting, and would allow you to have plenty of light and the door fully open on a hot summer's night.

 

[Pops15]

Your fiberglass door is an overhead not roll up. Roll ups roll into a drum as mentioned before. They have their place but I prefer an overhead.

The $1800-2400 quotes are reasonable for a QUALITY overhead door (installed) that size. Those prices may even be a tad low.

I'm curious how a single panel hydraulicly operated door compares price wise. I've only seen them used on much bigger openings where the other option is usually a slider.

I'm sure you could build something cheaper but it will likely be heavier and harder to operate, won't last as long, require more maintenance, and not look as good as even a cheap roll up or overhead door. It's easy to spend other people's money but I suggest buying a quality overhead door like a Raynor. You could save a few bucks by doing the installation yourself.

 

[grsthegreat]

check out Janus rollup doors. They are the type that actually roll up and are not sectional. I have a 12x12 unit on my shop. It includes an internal motor that rolls up the door with a push of a button. The operator unit is from a company called gliderol, and is sold by Janus doors. The unit is super easy to install. A neighbor helped me install mine in under 30 minutes...complete.

Roll Up Doors, Steel Door Manufacturer, Mini Storage Doors, Commercial Steel Rollup Doors

the rollup section is shipped complete, you install the two side legs than lift it into position, bolt into wall,. and hook up the opener circuit. theres a 3 wire connection between control unit and enclosed motor.

i dont remember what i spent on mine, but it was cheaper than all the local roll up door companies wanted here where i lived.... plus it had an opener already installed. wait till you price what an opener for a 12' tall door generally costs...

 

[BHD]

Your fiberglass door is an overhead not roll up. Roll ups roll into a drum as mentioned before. They have their place but I prefer an overhead.

The $1800-2400 quotes are reasonable for a QUALITY overhead door (installed) that size. Those prices may even be a tad low.

I'm curious how a single panel hydraulically operated door compares price wise. I've only seen them used on much bigger openings where the other option is usually a slider.

I'm sure you could build something cheaper but it will likely be heavier and harder to operate, won't last as long, require more maintenance, and not look as good as even a cheap roll up or overhead door. It's easy to spend other people's money but I suggest buying a quality overhead door like a Raynor. You could save a few bucks by doing the installation yourself.

Thank you for the correction, on the definition of roll up and over head, I think I knew it but did not use it correctly, sorry for the misuse of the word,


(I do not know the price, of the hydraulic doors I am sure if bought would be much more expensive, thinking of some thing I can build my self, and possibly find surplus parts for to make it work, I have a old power pack hydraulic and have a motor to run it (granted it only 1000 psi but would work), may even have some single stroke cylinders, that could be adapted, yes the frame would be more steel than a roll up or a over head, but I could have a walk in door in the big door,

and real windows if wanted,


I have seen quality "ROLL UPS" and they seem to look as if there small slip to gether panels, and then it looks like there are some that are not much more if any more than tin (building sheets seamed to gether to a panel that rolls up on a drum, some looked like they had a web strap that would keep the panel from stretching,

do you think 4 and halve sheets of roofing tin and a bottom strip for a guide would work and last any time,

(I realize most roll ups look like they use a torsion spring to counter balance as will, but I think I have a idea that would counter balance it. safely),

the simple is to come up with a grand+ for the door, is not the easiest thing right now, and if I could get in 500 for parts would Make the thing more affordable, figuring about 200 for the tin, and 2 to 300 for the rest of the parts, and would scavenger as much as possible,

because even a slider would come close to $500, in parts, 200 again for the tin, and for the tacks and rollers and frame $300 or so,

thanks for the feed back,

 

[JDskidder]

Is this the type of door you meant in the first post? PowerLift Hydraulic Doors Overview - YouTube

 

[BHD]

yes that is what I was thinking

 

[mjncad]

I'll bet those PowerLift doors are PRICEY! I also wonder how well they handle operation in wind storms.

 

[sparc]

Is this the type of door you meant in the first post? PowerLift Hydraulic Doors Overview - YouTube

Nice door, but I wonder how a 15mph wind would affect when opening or when open.

At a place I worked years ago that had some large very heavy doors. They were all posted
with signs warning NOT to open if the wind speed was over 10 mph. These doors are much
heavier than what you are looking at though, way north of 10 tons and they were hinged
on the side not at the top. If one of them were to get caught by a strong gust, there would
be no stopping it. Still I wonder how these doors with a much lighter frame would hold up.
I guess you just don't open them up in bad WX. It would be easy to add a man door and
windows though.

 

[MrPete]

You already have all the hardware for an overhead door. Why don't you replace/build new panels using your old hardware?

 

[BHD]

You already have all the hardware for an overhead door. Why don't you replace/build new panels using your old hardware?

I may do that,
but nearly every thing is shot, all rollers need replacement, springs need replaced, panels (fiberglass is cracked in many panels), about three of the frames have bent, parts, the hinges are questionable, the pulleys are wore out, the cable is in need of replacement, about the only thing that is not bad may be the track,

approx 20 years ago I bought two doors that had been taken out of a local business, and bought them both for $35, I took the best door (panels) which was the wider of the two, height about the same, the best track, and best rollers and so on and assembled one door that worked but well used at that, even when I first installed it I had to cut some sections of fiberglass and patch over holes in the door I choose to use,

the simple is it is wore out, and not just a little wore out but really wore out, and needs replaced IMO, and I do not replace some thing just because it is not new, I usually end up working on it about every few weeks to keep it functional, (meaning to be able to open it up and shut it),

and for some reason I really do not see it logical to spend maybe 30% to 50% of a new door to fix a shot door, that when fixed still won't seal and will need replacing in a few years any way.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

and the track is the 2" track for very light weight doors so if I made new panels the weight would most likely be much heavier, and then even with new rollers and parts and pieces, I am not even sure the track would be heavy enough to do the job, (I most likely can do one panel but not three or four,

 

[BHD]

Nice door, but I wonder how a 15mph wind would affect when opening or when open.

At a place I worked years ago that had some large very heavy doors. They were all posted
with signs warning NOT to open if the wind speed was over 10 mph. These doors are much
heavier than what you are looking at though, way north of 10 tons and they were hinged
on the side not at the top. If one of them were to get caught by a strong gust, there would
be no stopping it. Still I wonder how these doors with a much lighter frame would hold up.
I guess you just don't open them up in bad WX. It would be easy to add a man door and
windows though.

from what I read the manufactures do not say that wind is much of a factor, on the larger doors are made similar to what a heavy farm implement frame would be made out of , (the one that was put up on the business that my son works at, is a 3x6 1/4 wall tube, and the frame work that is attached to the building is very heavy, I think the door was 20 some feet wide, and about the same height, and in our area if you had to have less than 10 mph winds you would only open it a few times a year, as having wind under 10 mph is seldom,

and my guess is that because it is a flat panel that basically stays horizontal it is not as subject to the wind as some thing that is vertical and can have a cross wind that can catch it, different having a 10' by 20' foot swing door than and edge of 6"x 20'.

It is like carrying a piece of ply wood on a windy day, if vertical with the flat facing the wind you end up on your butt,
but if it is carry on edge and down wind you can move it in a very strong wind. not saying that the wind is not a factor but I think that is partly why cables are not used, and only solid hydraulic cylinders.

 

[travis potter]

Some day I will figer out how to post pics. For now I built my doors for my shop. The opening is 12' X 12' 2 doors 6' X 12' i used 2x2 tubing 14ga 2 sides top and bottom with 4 cross braces the doors fit on the shop floor with clearence and the tin fits in the 2 in drop for the wall tin this seals the bottom. I work on comerical walk doors so I had a bunch of 4 1/2 in hinges I put 6 on each door no sag swing good and I can open 1 or both. I secure them with drop pins in the slab and a heavy chain and lock around the center of the doors. There is no lock on the outside. I used the same tin on the doors as on the sides when they are closed it looks like a wall. Hope this helps.

 

[BHD]

what I have chosen to do, (the insurance company choose to decline my claim on the door) If the damage would have been done mechanically they would have covered it, but since it was an animal it was not covered, the animal was never supposed to be in the building in the first place but that did not matter,

any way I found another panel it is narrower but I will build out a set of ends and mount the shorter panel in the ends and replace the springs with a torsion spring system, no it will not be a new door but most likely a better working door for a few years, the cost quoted to me for the springs from a local door man, said under $200 for the torsion spring system, and on the Net just the replacement extension springs like I have would cost me $82 each or $164 plus shipping, so the torsion spring system sounds like to me the way to upgrade the door,

also, I will replace the rollers, and patch the other panels some.

and I hope to make the bottom panel into a break away panel, Patent US5584333 - Releasable panel for overhead door - Google Patents

or about mid way down the page,
Edwards Door Systems Limited - Strip Doors

If I would have had some thing like this in the first place would not have a problem,

I have an idea on a lock that would lock the bottom section solid when closed, by a moving rocking lock that works when the door and the latch hits the floor, by rocking into a slot on the panel,

and the panel held in place up either spring loaded, pins with rollers, Abbey Trading 081368 HD SPRING LOADED GATE WHEEL

or a hose type seal, in two channels or angle irons set at a 45 degree angle with some space between, with a soft hose that would seal and yet soft enough to allow it to slip out if hit.

or even just use a few plastic bolts or a few zip ties,

as the bottom panel would be secured by the rocking locks on the edges of the door when closed,

that is my current plan,