Rotary Cutter Sharpening the blades

[ParkWhite]

The blades on my 5 foot Woods got in terrible shape so I got replacement blades at TSC and installed them. Afterwards the mower was shaking so bad the tractor fenders were rattling. I tried to figure out what I did wrong. I thought the blades might be sticking at the bolt end and cleaned that up to no avail. I finally removed the blades to inspect and found out that one blade weighed about 12 ounces more than the other. It was too late to take them back as they were all dinged up as per normal use. So, I used a grinder to cut the back side of the heavy blade until I got the weight down to match the other blade (not easy to do). This finally solved the vibration problem.
If you get replacement blades, weigh them before you install them.

 

[diesel85]

The blades on my 5 foot Woods got in terrible shape so I got replacement blades at TSC and installed them. Afterwards the mower was shaking so bad the tractor fenders were rattling. I tried to figure out what I did wrong. I thought the blades might be sticking at the bolt end and cleaned that up to no avail. I finally removed the blades to inspect and found out that one blade weighed about 12 ounces more than the other. It was too late to take them back as they were all dinged up as per normal use. So, I used a grinder to cut the back side of the heavy blade until I got the weight down to match the other blade (not easy to do). This finally solved the vibration problem.
If you get replacement blades, weigh them before you install them.

This also goes for finish mower blades and flail knives. I've run into this before. Even on Gator blades!

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Did you watch the video? I have a 6 foot Woods that the blades look like and attach like in the Bush Hog in the video.

Same bolt, etc. The difference being on the Woods the access hole to loosen the nut is rectangular instead of round.

I also understand the newer Woods have a different bolt blade attachment.

My OLD Woods rotary cutter (more than 30 years) has the blades attached just the way as I described in my last post.

Perhaps you have the cheapest Woods rotary cutter, and that's why they saved some money on blade attachment?

SR

 

[dieselscout80]

My Woods C114-1 has a tool-less means to change the blades and in about 15 minutes I can change all three pairs.

 

[Gator6x4]

My OLD Woods rotary cutter (more than 30 years) has the blades attached just the way as I described in my last post.

Perhaps you have the cheapest Woods rotary cutter, and that's why they saved some money on blade attachment?

SR

Nope not the cheapest. It is a Woods Brush Bull 72 with the Stump Jumper. The stump jumper is a very-very heavy duty circular disk that the blades attach to. It prevent gear box and drive line damage when you encounter a low stump or rock and allows the mower to slide up and over the object rather than strike and stop. The picture shows the top of the stump jumper. Also it takes two of the cheap $25.00 bolts to attach and hold the blades. And yes the torque on those things are 685 foot pounds. I use a 1200 foot pound battery powered impact wrench ratchet to remove and replace the nuts through the 6x6 rectangular access plate on the top of the Brush Bull deck at the rear. The plate is held down with a one half inch bolt head bolt.

Stump Jumper Pan for Rotary Mowers with 15 Splines

Protect the blades on your rotary mower by installing stump jumpers. This steel made part measures 20-1/4 in. in diameter, with a 15 spline center.

www.agrisupply.com

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Nope not the cheapest. It is a Woods Brush Bull 72 with the Stump Jumper. The stump jumper is a very-very heavy duty circular disk that the blades attach to.

All three of my cutters have stump jumpers. Anyway, does it look like this?

If so, the blades are NOT held on by the stump jumper...

The Woods Brush Bull 72 IS their cheaper cutter...

Lets see a pict. of yours...

SR

 

[Gator6x4]

All three of my cutters have stump jumpers. Anyway, does it look like this?

If so, it is NOT hooked to the stump jumper...

The Woods Brush Bull 72 IS their cheaper cutter...

Lets see a pict. of yours...

SR

That is a stump jumper your blades are attached to. Be prepared for a battle if you ever have to remove the stump jumper. I see you also have the debris chains on your unit.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That is a stump jumper your blades are attached to. Be prepared for a battle if you ever have to remove the stump jumper. I see you also have the debris chains on your unit.

NO they are NOT just attached to the stump jumper, the jumper is attached to what the blades are attached to!!

SR

 

[Gator6x4]

NO they are NOT just attached to the stump jumper, the jumper is attached to what the blades are attached to!!

SR

Look in the center of the round circle. You will see a nut screwed onto a threaded shaft. This shaft comes from the gear box sitting on top of the rotary cutter which is attached to the tractor by a pto shaft which contain either a shear pin or shear bolt or a slip clutch assembly. The shear pin or bolt or the slip clutch is there to prevent transferring a huge stress load into the PTO gears on the tractor when a solid object is struck and the blades suddenly stop moving.

The shaft coming down from the gear box is also splined. The interior of the round hole also is splined. This is where the great problem occurs. Over the years the splines rust together and when the stump jumper get bent or the bottom seal in the gear box needs replacing and you have to remove the stump jumper is when the sweating time starts.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Look in the center of the round circle. You will see a nut screwed onto a threaded shaft. This shaft comes from the gear box sitting on top of the rotary cutter which is attached to the tractor by a pto shaft which contain either a shear pin or shear bolt or a slip clutch assembly. The shear pin or bolt or the slip clutch is there to prevent transferring a huge stress load into the PTO gears on the tractor when a solid object is struck and the blades suddenly stop moving.

The shaft coming down from the gear box is also splined. The interior of the round hole also is splined. This is where the great problem occurs. Over the years the splines rust together and when the stump jumper get bent or the bottom seal in the gear box needs replacing and you have to remove the stump jumper is when the sweating time starts.

Did you bother to watch the vid YOU posted? It clearly shows that the blades are NOT attached to the stump jumper.

Also, MY Woods cutters do not have the blades attached with threaded pins/nuts like he torched off in the vid, either.

SR

 

[Gator6x4]

Did you bother to watch the vid YOU posted? It clearly shows that the blades are NOT attached to the stump jumper.

Also, MY Woods cutters do not have the blades attached with threaded pins/nuts like he torched off in the vid, either.

SR

I don’t know what to say other than if that is your Bush Hog you posted a picture of in post#46 then your blades are attached to a part called a stump jumper, by the same pins the gentleman torched off in the video.

The stump jumper, and pins are clearly visible in the photo you posted.

My lawn mower blades are not attached to a stump jumper, neither is. Anyone else’s.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I don’t know what to say other than if that is your Bush Hog you posted a picture of in post#46 then your blades are attached to a part called a stump jumper, by the same pins the gentleman torched off in the video.

The stump jumper, and pins are clearly visible in the photo you posted.

My lawn mower blades are not attached to a stump jumper, neither is. Anyone else’s.

How about looking at what is on the other side of the jumper before you post! IF you do, you will find what the blades are bolted to, and the "pins" on mine are not just threaded bolts, they are held in by "keepers" not threaded nuts like you keep indicating.

You have a cheaper Woods cutter, so they saved some money on YOURS by bolting the blades on.

I can't be much plainer about this, so if you don't get it by now, you aren't going to get it. lol

SR

 

[Gator6x4]

How about looking at what is on the other side of the jumper before you post! IF you do, you will find what the blades are bolted to, and the "pins" on mine are not just threaded bolts, they are held in by "keepers" not threaded nuts like you keep indicating.

You have a cheaper Woods cutter, so they saved some money on YOURS by bolting the blades on.

I can't be much plainer about this, so if you don't get it by now, you aren't going to get it. lol

SR

The picture you posted does not support what you are saying. If you consider my rotary cutter cheap you also consider millions of others cheap.

Know why the gentleman in the video cut the heads off of the bolt? He could not get the nut loose on the other end.

I have helped a neighbor replace the gear box on a bush hog and the lower seal so I am fairly familiar on what is on top of the stump jumper and what the stump jumper is attached to and how it is attached and most importantly how heavy a stump jumper is.

I guess I will have to tell my neighbors we have been according to you paying top dollar for cheap equipment.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The picture you posted does not support what you are saying. If you consider my rotary cutter cheap you also consider millions of others cheap.

Know why the gentleman in the video cut the heads off of the bolt? He could not get the nut loose on the other end.

I have helped a neighbor replace the gear box on a bush hog and the lower seal so I am fairly familiar on what is on top of the stump jumper and what the stump jumper is attached to and how it is attached and most importantly how heavy a stump jumper is.

I guess I will have to tell my neighbors we have been according to you paying top dollar for cheap equipment.

OK, I'm going to try this one last time, look at this pict. of one of my Woods Rotary cutters,

I torched the stump jumper off, does it look to you like the blades were held on by the stump jumper??? Take two looks before you answer. lol

NOW, look at the pict. Willy posted earlier,

Look at numbers 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13! Does it STILL look like the blades on the more expensive Woods cutters are held on by a large pin/bolt with a big nut that requires huge torque to get on or off?? This is how my "upper end" Woods cutters have the blades held on, it has NOTHING to do with the age of the cutters!

I'm not driving down to hillbillyville to show you, so if you don't get it now, with the above picts., you are a lost cause! lol and I give up!

SR

 

[Gator6x4]

OK, I'm going to try this one last time, look at this pict. of one of my Woods Rotary cutters,

I torched the stump jumper off, does it look to you like the blades were held on by the stump jumper??? Take two looks before you answer. lol

NOW, look at the pict. Willy posted earlier,

Look at numbers 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13! Does it STILL look like the blades on the more expensive Woods cutters are held on by a large pin/bolt with a big nut that requires huge torque to get on or off?? This is how my "upper end" Woods cutters have the blades held on, it has NOTHING to do with the age of the cutters!

I'm not driving down to hillbillyville to show you, so if you don't get it now, with the above picts., you are a lost cause! lol and I give up!

SR

By the picture(s) you again have provide, What you did is torch the stump jumper off, leaving the heavy duty steel attachment bar that was attached to the top - back of the stump jumper. The heavy duty bar is also what contains the splined connector to the gear box shaft protruding downward thru the deck. What you have created by your action is create a catastrophic Rotary Cutter gear box or tractor PTO drive line failure from shock stress if the bar your blades are attached to ever hits a stump or rocks and stops suddenly with the tractor running at PTO speed. Trust me the damage will not be taken care of under warranty nor be the fault of the Rotary Cutter or tractor.

The Woods Brush Bull which I have is considered Woods Premium Rotary Cutter. So if you disagree with that labeling by Woods and consider the Rotary cheap, my suggestion is for you to tell Woods that not me.

Woods latest version of the Woods Brush hog contains pin removal for the blades.

• "Greasable Quick-change blade pins are easy to maintain and remove from top of the deck through large blade access window
• High-strength steel bumper with a Z-channel frame for added durability when backing over tough brush"

With the modifications you have made, I would not recommend backing or driving over tough brush.

Brushbull BB72.60 with three-point hitch - Woods Equipment

The Woods Brushbull BB72.60 cuts brush and saplings up to four inches in diameter and twelve inches tall. Six-year limited gearbox warranty.

woodsequipment.com

I personally don't think you should be driving. Your pictures, the modifications you have made and saying that is standard on "HIGH DOLLAR ROTARY CUTTERS " do not match or coincide with facts.

Your modifications to what was already a dangerous piece of equipment when in use is a very good example of why we should never be around or near when someone is operating a Rotary Cutter or Flail Mower.

 

[Williy]

ROUND STUMP JUMPER ASSEMBLY (OPTIONAL)
REF
PART
QTY
1 610124 1 Round stump jumper kit - BB60.60
1 603839 1 Round stump jumper kit - BB72.60 / BB84.60
2 62153 12
3 14350* 12
*
40 Parts

willy

 

[JasperFrank]

Every old timer I've talked to said you don't sharpen Brush Hog Blades. I do anyway, as my Bush Hog, after most of the heavy duty work has been done on the property, morphed into a high grass mower. I only use it when the grass has gotten out of hand. I flip mine over, and then use a grinder. It does an Okay job at grass cutting. Not great, but then I use the Garden Tractor mower to clean up the cut.