Sharpening Brush Hog Blades

[Soundguy]

Tip it up on a side a few feet, then cribb it like it is/was the empire state building.. then do the other side..

gewar lube is most usualy.. sometimes 0# grease..

soundguy

 

[Slippy]

Thanks. I did just buy for a few bucks a kit from Lowes that has a stone with an angle on it and a plastic guide. Supposed to give you the correct angle on the blade. It is for mower blades, but I think it will work. Do want it pretty sharp as you suggested to cut grass.
Also got a gadget you attach to the side wall of the mower deck which pins up the blade so it won't turn while trying to remove or sharpen.
Still don't like the idea of beining under that thing even with the best blocking.

 

[Oleozz]

[john_bud]Yowzers!

Either you have some short and stubby blades or you don't hit many large hard objects. My blades are lucky to still be with me in 24 months!

jb[/quote]


The hardest thing I've hit were two steel dog tie out stakes that I had put in the high grass and forgot about them. Usually mow about 40 acres every summer and blades are still in decent shape.

 

[sandman2234]

Slippy,
If you have a trailer that you haul your tractor on, load it on but leave the bush hog extended just a little bit past the end of the trailer. That will give you a enough to get to one side of the blade, and you just rotate the stumpjumper to get to the other one. You can sit on the ground and work under the end of the bush hog with no fear of it falling. Might put a jackstand under the rear of the trailer if there is any chance that it is rear heavy.(safety first!)
David from jax

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Slippy,
If you have a trailer that you haul your tractor on, load it on but leave the bush hog extended just a little bit past the end of the trailer. That will give you a enough to get to one side of the blade, and you just rotate the stumpjumper to get to the other one. You can sit on the ground and work under the end of the bush hog with no fear of it falling. Might put a jackstand under the rear of the trailer if there is any chance that it is rear heavy.(safety first!)
David from jax

Aw man....! You just gave away my secret trick! Works like a charm, safe, and you don't even have to get all the way down on the ground to see or reach the blades.

 

[Slippy]

My cutter is a pull behind, not 3pt. I guess it would still work, have to move around the ramps. Is that what you ment?

 

[Soundguy]

That gizmo that pins to the deck to stop the blades from turning probably only works with fixed blades ( like a lawnmower.. or finish mower.. )... most brush cutter blades are a floating blade and can pivot on the rear blade bolt at the blade carrier / stump jumper....

soundguy

Thanks. I did just buy for a few bucks a kit from Lowes that has a stone with an angle on it and a plastic guide. Supposed to give you the correct angle on the blade. It is for mower blades, but I think it will work. Do want it pretty sharp as you suggested to cut grass.
Also got a gadget you attach to the side wall of the mower deck which pins up the blade so it won't turn while trying to remove or sharpen.
Still don't like the idea of beining under that thing even with the best blocking.

 

[AllWaysBreakinSomething]

I have two 5ft brush hogs and have never "sharpened the blades" over the last 10 years. I do however grind some as if sharpening to balance the blades when needed. Very rare though. Usually I check this after hitting something that "wasn't suppose to be there" (one of the kids put it there things).

I cut 10% trees, 20% thick brush, and other grasses or weeds.

I do however use a 52hp tractor so I never have a power issue. My father always told me grinding on the blade is a waste of time and your just grinding away the blade. I only notice a difference in cutting thick fescue. I don't really care if that gets a good clean cut anyways in the pastures.

However the lawn mower or finish mower is a different story. If you have dull blades you have to go slow to keep from leaving high patchy spots. I have a large 27 Hp Husqvarna and can go 17-18 mph cutting on sharp blades. 6-10 Mph on dull ones.

Seems like a lot of typing for just sharpening blades but this is my experience.

 

[AndyMA]

I also never sharpen Brush Hog blades. Just replace them when a piece breaks off. Perhaps if you don't have enough power and are actually trying to cut with them. The blades I use have pretty rounded edges even when new.

Andy

 

[RegL]

Thanks. I did just buy for a few bucks a kit from Lowes that has a stone with an angle on it and a plastic guide. Supposed to give you the correct angle on the blade. It is for mower blades, but I think it will work. Do want it pretty sharp as you suggested to cut grass.
Also got a gadget you attach to the side wall of the mower deck which pins up the blade so it won't turn while trying to remove or sharpen.
Still don't like the idea of beining under that thing even with the best blocking.

My experience with a sharpening stone like that, is that it makes a pretty good paper weight. But go ahead and try it. You may have better luck.

 

[1bush2hog]

I also never sharpen Brush Hog blades. Just replace them when a piece breaks off.
Andy

Andy - How big of a piece are you talking about here? Also, what should be done with blades that have bent places in them? Straighten, or will this weaken the blade further causing this area to eventually break off?

 

[AndyMA]

Andy - How big of a piece are you talking about here? Also, what should be done with blades that have bent places in them? Straighten, or will this weaken the blade further causing this area to eventually break off?

I don't think I have ever bent a blade. But if I did I would not straighten it. If it were still in balance I would just run it. As far as broken off pieces they are usually just small chunks on the cutting edge. I might touch the edges of it up with a hand held grinder. Usually when a piece breaks off it is most of a blade.

Andy

 

[BTI]

If you are on the "edge" with HP sharpening the blades can help a good bit.
Especially if just cutting grass and other stuff that tends to bend instead of cut.
For years we only used a Rotary Cutter to cut our grass.
We kept the blades sharp and other than the edges of the "hog" digging in occasionally,
you'd never know we hadn't used a finish mower.

BTI

 

[scott_vt]

you'd never know we hadn't used a finish mower.

BTI

Afternoon BTI,
I agree, I have done it and it works OK, but boy watch out when the edge of the hog digs into the lawn ! Tomahawk scalp job !

 

[DTCOOPER]

well guys, I removed the brush hog, turned it up to a large tree on its side, and went to work. I removed the nut for the stump jumper, and when it was almost all the way off, I gently tapped the nut with a small sledge. The jumper begand backing off.. I got it off, cleaned and oiled the shaft. Then I tightened all the bolts up, that hold the gearbox onto the deck. Then I took the blades and went to work on them.. I got them all cleaned up, removed all the knickks and chips, and got what I feel is a good blunt but sharp edge on them..
thanks once again for everyone's help !!
Daniel

 

[Cog-Noggin']

Take 'em to a welding shop and have them lay down some hardened rod on the cutting edge before you sharpen them. They may even do the sharpening for you.

 

[BRUSHTAMERS]

I don't sharpen my brush hog blades, they actually self sharpen. Usually run the mower low to take advantage of the lift that newer blades create, and generally run over sandy soil, or on sandy dunes. When they quit pulling the grass or light brush up, I look underneath the mower to see if the trailing edges of the blades are feathered off.The leading edge of the blades will wear from bottom to top in sandy conditions, keeping a fairly sharp edge on the blades. But as soon as the back edge of the blade starts to wear out, the lift capability goes away. Disadvanage of using the mower that way is wearing away the blade edge from the front,the cutting height changes as the blade wears away from bottom to top. As far as newer blades I refer to, all of the brush cutters I ran as a kid were flat deck, and straight blades, absolutly different from modern brushcutters.Have tried that trailer trick for working under a mower, gives a great sense of security when working under a deathtrap. Happy Memorial Day weekend to everyone!!! I'll spend mine mowing my property in Tillamook, per wifes agenda, yay!!! Sidey P.S. A set of blades are only $50- $70 bucks, with new hardware.

 

[srjones]

Take 'em to a welding shop and have them lay down some hardened rod on the cutting edge before you sharpen them. They may even do the sharpening for you.

That's exactly what I did, and I was very pleased with the results. It was like a brand new blade for a fraction of the cost.

 

[Glowplug]

So, why not make the blades sharp. I had not heard of this before.

Also, I have used my FEL or Pallets Forks to lift mine up on its end to sharpen...

If they're "sharp" they chip and wear down quickly. Don't want them truly "sharp" for multiple reasons.

 

[Glowplug]

Also, what should be done with blades that have bent places in them? Straighten, or will this weaken the blade further causing this area to eventually break off?

Don't try to straighten bent blades. That will weaken them and they may break and next thing you know you have a piece of metal shrapnel travelling at 190mph toward you or a loved one's head!!