Rear Finish Mower Sharpening blades on RFM

[tld]

Is there a good procedure to use when sharpening blades on RFM? Are concrete blocks OK to use to hold up the mower. I know I shouldn't rely on the hydraulics. What about a difficult blade removal?

 

[sandman2234]

Concrete blocks are a good way to get killed if you crawl under it and they give way. They are not made for stacking stuff on, so if you need something, try solid wood blocks, or better yet, jackstands.
However, I just load my tractor on the trailer and leave a couple of feet of the bush hog sticking out past the trailer. Take a short stool and sit down while I grind the blades. Be sure to wear your safety glasses!!
David from jax

 

[kenmac]

ditto on the concrete blocks being a killer. They aren't made for that. I use a 4.5'' angle grinder on mine after I weld up the bad spots where I always hit rocks

 

[tld]

Thanks. Not ready to check out of this world yet!

I don't have a trailer, but could buy jackstands. I was thinking about taking the blades off to sharpen. Would PT 6 x 6 work if laid on their side, or maybe a 6 x 6 and a 2 x 6 to give 8 inches of clearance to get blade off.

Just trying to get SAFE ideas....and thanks for the conc block info.

 

[kenmac]

That should do it.Anything solid.. I also take my blades off to sharpen

 

[Kernopelli]

Is there a good procedure to use when sharpening blades on RFM? Are concrete blocks OK to use to hold up the mower. I know I shouldn't rely on the hydraulics. What about a difficult blade removal?

I use jack stands and an angle grinder. If I have to remove the blades I use an impact wrench but have found that a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar works fine...sometimes have to give the breaker bar a good smack with a heavy hammer to make a sudden impact to break the nut loose. If using a wrench or socket to take the nuts off it is helpful to wedge a small piece of wood between the belt and pulley to keep the blade from spinning.

 

[kenmac]

If / when you get them off. Use some anti sieze on the threads. They won't be so hard to get off next time

 

[cperky]

if you have a front end loader then you can simply lift up one end of the mower and easily remove the blades or just sharpen them in place

 

[EddieWalker]

I have two dirt piles that I drive my dozer up on to get under it that I use for my mower also. It's just wide enough to lower both ends of the mower onto and allows me plenty of room to get under it. My blades come off with two bolts and one nut. With my impact gun, it takes all of ten seconds to remove a blade.

Eddie

 

[have_blue]

I have two dirt piles that I drive my dozer up on to get under it that I use for my mower also. Eddie

Ditto on the dirt ramps.

It takes just 1 or 2 scoops of dirt to make a quick ramp. With the rear wheels on the dirt and the front wheels on the ground, the mower will be pretty high off the ground.

 

[wedge40]

Thanks. Not ready to check out of this world yet!

I don't have a trailer, but could buy jackstands. I was thinking about taking the blades off to sharpen. Would PT 6 x 6 work if laid on their side, or maybe a 6 x 6 and a 2 x 6 to give 8 inches of clearance to get blade off.

Just trying to get SAFE ideas....and thanks for the conc block info.

Being a home owner, jack stands are like 2x4's you can never have enough of them. When I did my blades on the bushog I used the 3pt and jack stands. I also use them to hold up attachments so I can hook them up easier.

Wedge

 

[sandman2234]

PAB,
Your right, concrete blocks are great! My home and shop are both made of them and I prefer them to wood. However, most people that use concrete blocks either stand them on end for extra height, and/or set the steel piece directly onto the block. Either way becomes a serious liability, so I figured the best thing was just to advise against it, in the interest of a long life.
David from jax

 

[MarkLeininger]

Seriously? I wonder what they were thinking when they built all the load bearing walls of my home with concrete blocks?

They were thinking that when blocks are installed as part of a wall, with mortar to completely distribute the load uniformly, and the weight of the whole house applied vertically so no part of the wall can go into tension, then blocks are really strong and safe. When you pile them individually on the ground and apply a load that allows them to go into tension, or apply any transverse loading, or subject them to point loading, then they perform very poorly, and can easily break. Brick layers can break a single concrete block with a few strikes with the edge of their trowel. Once the blocks are installed as part of a wall, it takes a bulldozer to break it up.

The safety police can make you crazy, but don't let them drive you so crazy that you put yourself at risk to prove them wrong.

 

[tld]

I saw something on TV where they were testing the strength of concrete blocks. However, they were testing the force needed to break the block that was standing normally (as in a wall) and distributing the pressure evenly on the entire block. The block held very well.
Resting the pressure of 1/4 inch steel in one spot would probably be like a knife going thru it.

Mow I'll have to decide on which jackstands to buy!

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I unbolt mine and sharpen on a grinder.

 

[WH401]

Impact wrench for on and off, jack stands & wood blocks for support, and a 4" angle grinder for sharpening, I won't even mess with a bench grinder anymore, its horribly slow and can know where near give you the long, sloping edge needed for a nice cut and the strength of the edge.

 

[RobJ]

You mean yall don't just raise the 3pt, stick my...errr your long skinny arm under there with an impact and zip them off in 10 seconds? And them vice them and grind them with an angle grinder?

Me neither. Far to dangerous!!!

Actually I only sharpen them once then replace. We have some ore around the place and it can do a number on the blades. Plus I tend to mow places with the RFM that I should use the bushhog.

Rob