Sewing grass

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

Trying to extend yard into area where I cleared out some trees (mostly pine) Been trying to sew grass and it never seems to really catch. The soil here seems to be primarily clay'ish, so I've been bringing soil over from other side of farm where I found a nice pocket of "black dirt" (probably an area of sediment eons ago... this "topsoil" layer is probably 5 or 6 feet deep before turning into clay)

Might bear to mention, the area this "topsoil" is coming from was ALSO timbered for pine trees at same time my side yard was.

I understand pine trees acidify the soil?

Don't really care if that's true or not, but if it's a factor, what might I put on soil to help prepare it for my current attempt at sewing grass?

Worked it all up last night with boxblade, going to bring couple more bucket loads over & try to finalize the "shape" we want then fertilize/sew..

What might I use to help? The entire yard has grass but it's rather cobby looking, nothing "lawnish" that you see on well manicured houses. I have 1/2 a mind to redo the entire yard after having 10 dump trucks bring in "real" dirt /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Richard

thcri · Mar 26, 2003

Richard,

I believe you are right on the acidity. Around here we would use lime to get rid of the acid's. You also may want to talk to some people in your area about the fertilizer your using also with the lime.

As far as sewing the grass I did a bunch of it myself and it worked great. I just used my broadcast spreeder to spreed the seed around and then used a drag to drag it in. Point being to get the seed to be buried about an 1" in the ground. You want to do this in a cooler time of the year. This way you don't have to keep it as moist.

murph

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

cool time eh? like now lol. My goal (live on slope) is to get it to root some prior to rain so my yard doesn't wash away (again) /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

beenthere · Mar 26, 2003

Re: Sowing grass

Sure got my curiosity up when you said you were "sewing" grass. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I have some of the same dilemna's with what to do given poor soil, and am thinking I will try punching holes in it to aerate it. After 35 years of mowing, maybe it needs a breather.

MossRoad · Mar 26, 2003

See if you can get a soil test kit at a local garden shop. That is probably the only way to make sure the soil is OK. They are pretty inexpensive, alot less than wasted grass seed /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

As for a new lawn, I've had good success with preparing the seed bed, sowing the seeds, covering with lose soil and rolling it to make sure the seeds have soil contact. Plant it too deep or too shallow and it won't work. What's the magic depth? 1/4 to 1/2 inch worked for me, your results may vary. Then water, water, water until it sprouts and then water it some more until it gets high enough to cut. Bag the clippings until the 4th cut. After that, treat it like a normal lawn. Only water it once or twice a week, deeply. If you give it short, shallow drinks, the roots will never develop to reach down for water, then you'll be suceptible to drought.

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

How bout that.. soil test kit.. just called the local box, and for $3.20, I can get a test kit....

Guess what I'm doing today presuming it doesnt' rain /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

cowboydoc · Mar 26, 2003

Are you just sprikling it out there? You need to prepare the soil first. Grass won't grow in clumps of dirt very well. You really should have your soil worked down pretty fine. Then use a drill. If you don't have a drill broadcast it and harrow it. Also it's going to need lots of water to get est. If you can't get water to it pray for rain and plant during the rainy season.

As has been mentioned get a good soil sample. That will tell you where you need to be there. Also I would fertilize a week or less before I plant the seed.

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

preliminary update...

Tested ph and it showed 8 (?) lol

Am currently letting my soil/water mixture settle for rest of sample.

I'd NEVER thought about fertilizing PRIOR to seeding, I'd done it afterwards. Thanks for the heads up.

Will post other results after dinner

SOMEONE on this board is absolutely starving now. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Richard

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

Ok, stomach be darned and all with it's growling at me for sustinence....

Couldn't wait on results, so if I read this scale correctly

PH = 8.0 Alkaline
Nitrogen = very low (or lower than that actually)
Phosphorous = very low or below.. actually, the strip shows light bluish and the vile looks more color of lemonaid.. lol not blue at all
Potash = I'd guess between low and very low

Hmm..seems all I have is black organic material? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

If this tidbit helps, (washing acid out?) the pine trees were harvested maybe 2 years ago, possibly 2 1/2.

Anyway, that's results of my test as best I can tell. I called the test kit company and they close at 5:30 eastern, so I missed them of course.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Richard

MossRoad · Mar 26, 2003

<font color="blue"> just called the local box, and for $3.20, I can get a test kit.... </font>

Pretty cool, huh? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

At least it can get you in the ballpark before you start. good luck. Be sure to take before, during and after pictures for yourself(and us too /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)

Richard · Mar 26, 2003

I've been overruled

Wife & father in law say

PH = 7.0 Neutral
Nitrogen = very low
Phosphorous = low
Potash = very low

if they say it, it must be true /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

MossRoad · Mar 27, 2003

So now you need to figure out how much fertilizer to bring up the numbers. Your local county extension agent should be able to help you with that. Your garden center might, but the county folks usually have more knowledge.

cowboydoc · Mar 27, 2003

Find a farming coop in your area. I would get an official soil test from them. They will then be able to recommend what to put on your soil. Don't even waste your time trying to seed with that poor of soil. It's no wonder nothing was growing. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

thcri · Mar 27, 2003

Richard,

You may find that you have to fertilize a couple of weeks before you seed. Then you may have to fertilize every 6 weeks. I have some land that I sowed grass seed and it gets very brown about every 4 or 5 weeks. I just have to keep putting on the fertilizer.

murph

polo1665 · Oct 2, 2021

kimaelii said:
According to sewing machine One nice thing about such a simple and adaptive technique, is that you can make these bags in any size to suit your needs. Are you someone who buys a lot of celery? Make yourself a long and slender bag specifically for those watery stalks. Do you need a constant supply of large and leafy kale? An extra large mesh bag should do the trick. You are the master of your own grocery shopping destiny!

Solid input to an 18 year old thread.....Thanks

oosik · Oct 2, 2021

It kind of depends upon what type grass you are sewing. My soil is jet black and quite acid. My only trees - Ponderosa pine.

Local Ag extension service recommended I sew with native field grass. It has become acclimated to the acid soil. So ...... that's what I got and it has established very well.

Normal lawn grass would require lots of lime and lime addition almost every year.

Jstpssng · Oct 4, 2021

Huh? How did this 18 YO thread about "sewing grass" (AKA sowing grass seed) suddenly come back as a thread about sewing machines?

Enquiring minds want to know!!!

the old grind · Oct 4, 2021

I wonder if we should pre-treat for echo before sewing our grass.

Diggin It · Oct 4, 2021

Jstpssng said:
Huh? How did this 18 YO thread about "sewing grass" (AKA sowing grass seed) suddenly come back as a thread about sewing machines? Enquiring minds want to know!!!

Spammers in posts 15 and 18.