SEVEN POINT BACKHOE MOUNT

[3RRL]

I went up to the property to rebuild the road that washed out and got a couple of shots of the new subframe with the Nardi backhoe on it. As you remember, I didn't take any last time up. This one shows it ready to work. You can see the red attachments on top and the subframe on the bottom. The tractor's 3 point system is also completely attached. You can see Pat's EZ system.

 

[3RRL]

The backhoe subframe worked great. It sure beats worrying if I'm gonna tear off the rear casting or not. I tend to beat the heck out of the equipment so it was well worth the effort. This picture is a close up of the right side where I tried to show all the connections. You can clearly see Pat's system here and the lower lift arms and stabilizers that clear the subframe. It took me only 10 minutes to get her mounted. I made a little stand to hold up the backhoe so mounting it was a lot easier than I anticipated.

 

[toy]

your shop looks good. I have been looking to get a metal lathe for some time but so far no luck. I was told about a southbend with a eight foot bed and tooling I had the money to buy it in my pocket when I went to look at it but when I asked the guy if I could look at it he told me no with no explination of why and I won't buy anything if I can't see it first so I just left About three month later I thought that there might have been a reason that he couldn't show it to me at the time because he has an auto parts store so I went back to check again and he said that he had sold it to a fellow that said he would pay him payments but after the first payment he said that the guy never made any more payments and the other lathes that I have called about have been about the same success until I was telling a friend about it and he told me about a man that had a smithy smithy metal lathe and a smithy mill [seperate machines not the combo] that he was wanting to sell . Both machines are about a year old and he hasn't used them very much at all. After all this my question is is a smithy lathe and mill a good tool or is it junk or do you know in your opinion? I don't know anything about these types of machines but I know that these machines are the age that I was told and that they haven't been used any except to turn a few bushings and he is reducing the price about $1000 off of the new price and that he has quite a bit of tooling and stands for the machines that he would include also. I will apreciate any information that you might have concerning this before I go talk to him.

 

[dfkrug]

Hey, Rob.....any problem with ground clearance with the
new subframe?

Here is my latest custom-built subframe. The wet weather
wouldn't let my EPA-compliant enamel dry very well, so it
took a long tome to get it painted. This subframe surrounds
the rear axle castings and bolts to the frame below the
engine of a JD955.

 

[Seon]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This subframe surrounds
the rear axle castings and bolts to the frame below the
engine of a JD955. )</font>

Could you have bought a JD subframe and bolted your backhoe on it? Reason I ask is the JD dealer here has several OEM subframe and thought it might be the way to go /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif.


BTW your subframe looks good.

 

[Paddy]

Does your FEL have frame back to the tranny? And is that where you attached?

More photos would be good.

 

[3RRL]

Dave,
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hey, Rob.....any problem with ground clearance with the new subframe?)</font>

Not really any more than before. If you happened to notice I mounted the backhoe up higher than before. By choosing a higher mounting position I lost a few inches digging depth but that didn't matter to me. It's more a compromise between mobility and digging depth, with increased stability being the #1 criteria.

The subframe legs are right under the rear axles so they are above the bottom of rear end by several inches. When I got Pat's EZ changeover system it put the hoe away from the tractor by 4" anyway, making clearance over dips a little more difficult. So mounting it in a higher position makes it the same where the rear legs are now vs where the bottom of the hoe was before. If you saw that area I was grading with my hydraulic scarifier boxblade, I drove up and down that ramp with the backhoe on. I cut some of the corners of the pad with the backhoe first to get the pad level. The rear legs touched going up and down but no more than before. Plus they just slide on the dirt.

 

[Highbeam]

I'm patiently waiting for updated pictures on your site Rob.... I always pick up a few things from the pictures. Thanks for the site.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Joe,

I'll pass that on to Mrs 3RRL. I'm making excuses for her now, but we have been very busy in contracting the solar power contractor and also the general contractor to start building our home. That means we are on the phone or email with those guys after work instead of updating the website. Then there's filling out loan docs, appraisels...jeez...

You're not alone though, everyone else has been asking too. I'm not sure how many episodes she's behind, but I know it's a lot. Sure am glad you and some of the others have taken the time to visit the website...watching our antics...LOL...makes it worthwhile making a fool out of myself up there. But I sure love it!

 

[dfkrug]

For you JD experts out there.....

The x55 tractors are a bit different that many CUTs in
that they have a full frame on which the engine, trans, and
rear end mount. The loader connects to this frame and
does not have a subframe like you see on most CUTs. My
backhoe subframes for my 955s have used an exisiting
mounting bracket factory welded to the frame and intended
for the MMM. I will post pix shortly.

If you have access to a JD factory subframe cheap, get it
and adapt it. Adapting is usually easier than starting from
scratch. Realize that JD 7 and 8 (and 447, 448, 47, 48) b/hs
have a different hoe-side connection than my Woods 7500
clone hoes use. I have studied the parts diagrams for the
factory JD 7 subframe and mine is simpler and mounts the
hoe closer in to the rear wheels. The 955 weighs just under
2000# naked, even though it is 33hp.

 

[Mrs3RRL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm patiently waiting for updated pictures on your site Rob.... I always pick up a few things from the pictures. Thanks for the site. )</font>

well, if Rob'll let me off the hook, and not try to bribe me to cut a tree down, clean out a culvert, spray the road, hand him tools, grease the tractor or lift it up for him, I'll try to work on it this weekend while we're up at camp.

We do have a homeowner's meeting, and we have to drive into town to order a shed and generator for our solar system, though.

 

[3RRL]

That's BS...listen to that...she's making excuses already! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Seon]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you have access to a JD factory subframe cheap, get it
and adapt it. Adapting is usually easier than starting from
scratch. )</font>

Hey DF, I just ordered that Taylor Ways B/hoe attachment. Being picked up on Monday from MI and once I get it, I'll be able to see which way would be the easiest way to adapt it to my 4210 JD. Thanks

 

[dfkrug]

Getting the 6 1/2 foot model (766)? Even if you do not
get a JD4210 subframe for another hoe, the subframes are
not hard to build and there are a lot of threaded holes
in the bottom of your tractor's castings. I will post
a couple more pix on Sunday or Monday.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is a photo of the subframe and how it wraps around the
rear axle.

 

[dfkrug]

.....and how it bolts to the frame under the engine.

 

[3RRL]

Dave,
Does that subframe (above photos) stay mounted to the tractor? How easy is it to remove and unhook the backhoe?

 

[dfkrug]

All stays on the backhoe (see first photo from a few days
ago). No brackets on the tractor at all. Not too bad to
mount (with practice). Not that I plan to take it off many
times.

 

[3RRL]

Update on my 7 point mount. I take the backhoe on and off a lot to use my other implements.

I re-mounted the hoe this weekend to dig some trenches for a water line running to my camp. I dug the first 50' in a little over an hour, only going 12"-18" deep. It goes from the well to the East fence line and is an area where we rarely drive anything on (except the ATV occasionally). Well, the rest of the water line follows the fence down to South Camp....about 1600 feet. So I decided to just lay the pipe on top of the ground since it is temporary anyway. The sideways slope in some areas was just too much for my pucker factor. I crawled up to the fence line in one place, and nearly tipped the tractor over...PHWEW...man, that was scarier than heck. I lowered the bucket quickly to stabalize and backed out of there. Other areas along the fence line are steeper than this was so there's no way I'm doing it. There were many dips, humps and rocks hidden by the tall grass. I'd rather eat $h!t and die as far as I'm concerned, but I aint doing it.

Anyway, back to my subframe...
I told you I fashioned a sort of "stool" for the backhoe to sit on when off the tractor for easier mounting. And also that the subframe sides are about 3" inside each rear tire. I found this was a very easy way to estimate lining up the backhoe when backing up to it. The subframe legs slid right into tractor mounts every time I've done this and then I lift up the 3pt arms and hook the lift pins on the backhoe. Then I hook up the pump to the PTO and use the backhoe legs and bucket to align the other 5 connections. Slide all the hitch pins in and I'm good to go.

I was pleasantly surprised, again, that this whole process took less than 5 minutes total. Initially this was my worst fear that it would take FOREVER to hook up and un-hook but it's very easy now.

Attached pic is some of the trench work.

 

[dfkrug]

Hey, SEON
I hope you are not the poor guy selling a new Taylor Way
766 out of Lodi for $5700.....