Setting shredder height?

[MMagis]

I’ve never used anything other than a standard top link and have never had that happen. And the only thing flat around here is my garage floor. I can back my cutter up a hill and there’s enough movement that it won’t bind unless the hill is extremely steep. A little bit of flex built in the cutter makes sense, but I can’t understand the “chain is the only safe way” mentality. The chain is far from safe in my opinion, and I’ve used one before.

 

[bikerdib]

Yea' I don't think I'd like a chain either. That would just add WAY to much movement.

 

[TripleR]

I set mine pretty much the same as everyone else; pretty much by the manual though I don't actually measure anything.

Both of my three-point models are designed with a flex attachment to my solid top link and I mow some fairly uneven terrain; don't see a need to modify it. I do have a hydraulic top link that really is nice in some situations.

 

[RobJ]

My shredder has the swing link (flex link) on the top. I wouldn't use it without one because I'm mowing at my weekend cabin in the woods and the ground was never leveled.

I'm kinda kicking myself because I just mowed down to about 5 inches and we are coming into the intense heat/dry season. I probably killed my bahia grass.

Mine has a moveable link on top to, but these days 9 times out of 10 I don't use any top link. The think floats alone just fine.

BTW, I don't think anything can kill bahia grass!

 

[RobJ]

Why are so many people so scared about something that they clearly don't have any experience with? How did some of you become convinced that it's not safe to use a rigid top link on uneven ground? That's how these things are DESIGNED to be used. I can't understand how using a chain ever became an accepted practice, to the point of scaring people out of using a cutter how it was designed.

To be honest, I don't know how they were designed without something flexable at the top.

Put a ridgid top link connection then go mow a ditch crossways. To me the proper design is to allow the tractor and mower to form a V if then need to. Don't really need a ^ movement but no top link allows that.

 

[MMagis]

Like I was saying, I get that movement with a top link. But, the movement is not unlimited and I don’t think it should be. The no top link idea is a problem waiting to happen, but that’s just my opinion.

 

[gauthier]

I don't think anybody was saying its safer to use a chain instead of top link,,its unsafer,I know,I use a chain.

But it depends on your land,I just cut rough pasture but not real rough,its hilly and not level,but its stump free and big rock free,I cut the same ground 2-3 times every year,know it like I know my yard,,,so...

Using a chain allows back wheel to stay on ground more on uneven ground,you can adjust it to how ever tight or not tight you want it,it allows you to pick the back up some,it keeps rear from going down too low when you go over a rise so top link don't come apart,it allows for more even cutting,,,it helps keep you from getting wedged up when you go through a dith or the like,,,
But,the one thing it won't do is keep back from coming up if front lip of mower hits a stump or the like,,,thats the one and only benifit of a solid top link over a chain,,and for some that might be a very wanted benifit,for me its not.

 

[rjkobbeman]

Modern cutters have an extra linkage that allows the top link to "float". This allows for the rear (tail wheel end) of the cutter to move upward.

I don't know if rotary cutters from the dawn of time have always had this or if it is a recent invention. My guess is the floating mechanism has not always been around and that is why chains were adopted. Another reason for chains is for extreme movement of the tail end of the cutter. Some people's land requires more movement than what is provided by the floating top link.

My cutter provides MORE THAN ADEQUATE movement for my property. This includes driving through a small ditch.

My Land Pride Quick Hitch on the other hand does not. By design, a quick hitch does not allow for the top attachment point of the implement to float. To allow for this an extra linkage is provided, however it is severely limiting and I actually bent my cutter uprights because of it. Knowing what my 3-point went through to do this really issed me off. My quick hitch is now sitting unused in my garage.

Since all my implements are on dollys, my quick hitch is really useless. Of all the things I bought, the quick hitch is the one I did not think though long enough.

Oh well, rant over (for now, he, he, he).

As far as chains, I really can't see an issue as long as they don't get tied up in the PTO shaft. Some think the toplink will save you from going over in certain situations -- which makes the use of chains unsafe. After bending my cutter's uprights (as explained above), I can assure you the cutter will NOT save you... it will fold with or without a top link.

 

[beenthere]

I have a pretty good idea but I'd like to hear from more experienced operators. I have a SQ480 shredder I use behind my B7300. I want to know how you set the cut height. I know about setting the height of the crazy wheel but is there anything about setting the 3pt height? I set the top link so the shredder picks up to an adequate height when transporting the shredder without cutting (lifted position). I normally just lower the shredder till the crazy wheel carries the rear weight then continue lowering till the shredder is level. Is this the proper way?

Do you set it so when the front tires of the tractor go into a dip, the "crazy" wheel doesn't lift off the ground?

Lengthen the top arm long enough so the 3 ph all the way up raises the crazy wheel about 10-12" off the ground. Then lower the 3 ph so the front edge of the deck is at the height you want to cut grass/brush. This should put the top arm connection to the u-shaped bracket hanging loose, so the rear wheels stay on the ground when the front wheels of the tractor go into a dip. Also will follow the undulations of the ground much better.

I hook my rotary cutter (shredder) to my iMatch, and replaced the straps to the rear of the cutter with chains. That gives the flexibility needed to adapt to ground dips and humps.

 

[bikerdib]

Thanks for the input everyone.

Beenthere; what you describe is pretty much what I do. I will never get into a situation like in your second pic so the u shaped flex link on the shredder where you attach to the adjustable top link of the tractor takes care of everything I'll ever encounter. BTW, thanks for taking the time to take the pics.