I have a pretty good idea but I'd like to hear from more experienced operators. I have a SQ480 shredder I use behind my B7300. I want to know how you set the cut height. I know about setting the height of the crazy wheel but is there anything about setting the 3pt height? I set the top link so the shredder picks up to an adequate height when transporting the shredder without cutting (lifted position). I normally just lower the shredder till the crazy wheel carries the rear weight then continue lowering till the shredder is level. Is this the proper way?
Setting shredder height?
- Thread starter bikerdib
- Start date
- Views: 14964
ritschner
Silver Member
I set mine the same way and then set the lever stop. Of course living in the hill country I have a few rock outcroppings that I have to lift the mower over and the stop allows me to set the mower back down to the original setting.
johnrex62
Platinum Member
I have the 3pt set with the lever stop marking the lower limit with the shredder about an inch off the ground and the rear fully on the wheel and the side rails about 3 inches off the ground. This gives me a 3" cutting height and is the lowest cutting position I would want to use. The lever stop makes it easy to drop to this point when cutting the yard like areas. My 3pt arms rise about 2.5-3 inches per number on the lever, so it is easy to change the cut to whatever height I need.
I keep the front an inch or two lower than the rear because the manual says to, the majority of experts in these forums said so, and because it seems to work very well that way.
My shredder is a rear discharge, so it makes sense to keep the rear up to permit the debris easier exit from the deck. The slight height diff does not cause an uneven cut and creates less load for the tractor in high grass.
I keep the front an inch or two lower than the rear because the manual says to, the majority of experts in these forums said so, and because it seems to work very well that way.
My shredder is a rear discharge, so it makes sense to keep the rear up to permit the debris easier exit from the deck. The slight height diff does not cause an uneven cut and creates less load for the tractor in high grass.
MMagis
Veteran Member
I set it wherever I want it. Nothing special. Sometimes I want to almost scalp the dirt, sometimes I'm cutting 12" off the ground. Try not to over-think it.
See, I told you I had a pretty good idea.
Johnrex62; I've always set shredders up with the front lower than the rear. I've used both tow behind with lift-able wings like the Terrain King (they still in business, they used to make some great machines) and 3pt hook up type. Setting it up this way makes it less work for the tractor since the blades are trying to cut only once at the front. Plus, if you hit something solid there may be less chance of doing major damage since the blades only hit in the front. In fact, I have the mower deck on my JD lawn tractor set that way also.
Johnrex62; I've always set shredders up with the front lower than the rear. I've used both tow behind with lift-able wings like the Terrain King (they still in business, they used to make some great machines) and 3pt hook up type. Setting it up this way makes it less work for the tractor since the blades are trying to cut only once at the front. Plus, if you hit something solid there may be less chance of doing major damage since the blades only hit in the front. In fact, I have the mower deck on my JD lawn tractor set that way also.
I assume you have some kind of flexible link, or you're using a chain. I don't think you want to leave a rigid top link in place while you're mowing unless you're mowing a sod farm.
I mow my pasture grass at about 9-10". The longer the grass the deeper the root system, so you'll survive the dry spells better. Of course the neighbors might squawk if you live in a subdivision and have 9" long grass in your front yard.
What the man said about not over thinking it is right on,make it as level as you can side to side,mine doesn't really cut any different if fronts lower than rear,generally just eyeball it about level,front to back,I generally cut about 5-6 inches high,sometimes a little higher,sometimes a little lower,I use a chain for a toplink too.
My shredder has the swing link (flex link) on the top. I wouldn't use it without one because I'm mowing at my weekend cabin in the woods and the ground was never leveled.
I'm kinda kicking myself because I just mowed down to about 5 inches and we are coming into the intense heat/dry season. I probably killed my bahia grass.
I'm kinda kicking myself because I just mowed down to about 5 inches and we are coming into the intense heat/dry season. I probably killed my bahia grass.
MMagis
Veteran Member
Why are so many people so scared about something that they clearly don't have any experience with? How did some of you become convinced that it's not safe to use a rigid top link on uneven ground? That's how these things are DESIGNED to be used. I can't understand how using a chain ever became an accepted practice, to the point of scaring people out of using a cutter how it was designed.
I use a flexible link because when I had my B7100 with the cheap line of King Cutter sold by TSC I used to sometime get in a bind enough that the tractor would spin, the blades would chop the ground or some other form of havoc. The flexible link lets the shredder float more easily over uneven ground. Besides, it was already on the shredder I now have.
MMagis
Veteran Member
I’ve never used anything other than a standard top link and have never had that happen. And the only thing flat around here is my garage floor. 
I can back my cutter up a hill and there’s enough movement that it won’t bind unless the hill is extremely steep. A little bit of flex built in the cutter makes sense, but I can’t understand the “chain is the only safe way” mentality. The chain is far from safe in my opinion, and I’ve used one before.
I can back my cutter up a hill and there’s enough movement that it won’t bind unless the hill is extremely steep. A little bit of flex built in the cutter makes sense, but I can’t understand the “chain is the only safe way” mentality. The chain is far from safe in my opinion, and I’ve used one before.
TripleR
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Messages
- 18,538
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M8540HDC, L5740HSTC, BX2200, BX2660, John Deere 425&1025R, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford
I set mine pretty much the same as everyone else; pretty much by the manual though I don't actually measure anything.
Both of my three-point models are designed with a flex attachment to my solid top link and I mow some fairly uneven terrain; don't see a need to modify it. I do have a hydraulic top link that really is nice in some situations.
Both of my three-point models are designed with a flex attachment to my solid top link and I mow some fairly uneven terrain; don't see a need to modify it. I do have a hydraulic top link that really is nice in some situations.
RobJ
Elite Member
Mine has a moveable link on top to, but these days 9 times out of 10 I don't use any top link. The think floats alone just fine.
BTW, I don't think anything can kill bahia grass!
RobJ
Elite Member
To be honest, I don't know how they were designed without something flexable at the top.
Put a ridgid top link connection then go mow a ditch crossways. To me the proper design is to allow the tractor and mower to form a V if then need to. Don't really need a ^ movement but no top link allows that.
MMagis
Veteran Member
Like I was saying, I get that movement with a top link. But, the movement is not unlimited and I don’t think it should be. The no top link idea is a problem waiting to happen, but that’s just my opinion.
I don't think anybody was saying its safer to use a chain instead of top link,,its unsafer,I know,I use a chain.
But it depends on your land,I just cut rough pasture but not real rough,its hilly and not level,but its stump free and big rock free,I cut the same ground 2-3 times every year,know it like I know my yard,,,so...
Using a chain allows back wheel to stay on ground more on uneven ground,you can adjust it to how ever tight or not tight you want it,it allows you to pick the back up some,it keeps rear from going down too low when you go over a rise so top link don't come apart,it allows for more even cutting,,,it helps keep you from getting wedged up when you go through a dith or the like,,,
But,the one thing it won't do is keep back from coming up if front lip of mower hits a stump or the like,,,thats the one and only benifit of a solid top link over a chain,,and for some that might be a very wanted benifit,for me its not.
But it depends on your land,I just cut rough pasture but not real rough,its hilly and not level,but its stump free and big rock free,I cut the same ground 2-3 times every year,know it like I know my yard,,,so...
Using a chain allows back wheel to stay on ground more on uneven ground,you can adjust it to how ever tight or not tight you want it,it allows you to pick the back up some,it keeps rear from going down too low when you go over a rise so top link don't come apart,it allows for more even cutting,,,it helps keep you from getting wedged up when you go through a dith or the like,,,
But,the one thing it won't do is keep back from coming up if front lip of mower hits a stump or the like,,,thats the one and only benifit of a solid top link over a chain,,and for some that might be a very wanted benifit,for me its not.
rjkobbeman
Platinum Member
Modern cutters have an extra linkage that allows the top link to "float". This allows for the rear (tail wheel end) of the cutter to move upward.
I don't know if rotary cutters from the dawn of time have always had this or if it is a recent invention. My guess is the floating mechanism has not always been around and that is why chains were adopted. Another reason for chains is for extreme movement of the tail end of the cutter. Some people's land requires more movement than what is provided by the floating top link.
My cutter provides MORE THAN ADEQUATE movement for my property. This includes driving through a small ditch.
My Land Pride Quick Hitch on the other hand does not. By design, a quick hitch does not allow for the top attachment point of the implement to float. To allow for this an extra linkage is provided, however it is severely limiting and I actually bent my cutter uprights because of it. Knowing what my 3-point went through to do this really issed me off. My quick hitch is now sitting unused in my garage.
Since all my implements are on dollys, my quick hitch is really useless. Of all the things I bought, the quick hitch is the one I did not think though long enough.
Oh well, rant over (for now, he, he, he).
As far as chains, I really can't see an issue as long as they don't get tied up in the PTO shaft. Some think the toplink will save you from going over in certain situations -- which makes the use of chains unsafe. After bending my cutter's uprights (as explained above), I can assure you the cutter will NOT save you... it will fold with or without a top link.
I don't know if rotary cutters from the dawn of time have always had this or if it is a recent invention. My guess is the floating mechanism has not always been around and that is why chains were adopted. Another reason for chains is for extreme movement of the tail end of the cutter. Some people's land requires more movement than what is provided by the floating top link.
My cutter provides MORE THAN ADEQUATE movement for my property. This includes driving through a small ditch.
My Land Pride Quick Hitch on the other hand does not. By design, a quick hitch does not allow for the top attachment point of the implement to float. To allow for this an extra linkage is provided, however it is severely limiting and I actually bent my cutter uprights because of it. Knowing what my 3-point went through to do this really issed me off. My quick hitch is now sitting unused in my garage.
Since all my implements are on dollys, my quick hitch is really useless. Of all the things I bought, the quick hitch is the one I did not think though long enough.
Oh well, rant over (for now, he, he, he).
As far as chains, I really can't see an issue as long as they don't get tied up in the PTO shaft. Some think the toplink will save you from going over in certain situations -- which makes the use of chains unsafe. After bending my cutter's uprights (as explained above), I can assure you the cutter will NOT save you... it will fold with or without a top link.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,658
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Do you set it so when the front tires of the tractor go into a dip, the "crazy" wheel doesn't lift off the ground?
Lengthen the top arm long enough so the 3 ph all the way up raises the crazy wheel about 10-12" off the ground. Then lower the 3 ph so the front edge of the deck is at the height you want to cut grass/brush. This should put the top arm connection to the u-shaped bracket hanging loose, so the rear wheels stay on the ground when the front wheels of the tractor go into a dip. Also will follow the undulations of the ground much better.
I hook my rotary cutter (shredder) to my iMatch, and replaced the straps to the rear of the cutter with chains. That gives the flexibility needed to adapt to ground dips and humps.
Attachments
Thanks for the input everyone.
Beenthere; what you describe is pretty much what I do. I will never get into a situation like in your second pic so the u shaped flex link on the shredder where you attach to the adjustable top link of the tractor takes care of everything I'll ever encounter. BTW, thanks for taking the time to take the pics.
Beenthere; what you describe is pretty much what I do. I will never get into a situation like in your second pic so the u shaped flex link on the shredder where you attach to the adjustable top link of the tractor takes care of everything I'll ever encounter. BTW, thanks for taking the time to take the pics.
