Saving a 5g fuel can

[etpm]

Since you have a steel can just solder it. Before patching the leak I suggest you use a pointed hammer or a pointed punch and a hammer to tap the bottom. This will help you find any more weak spots that are just waiting to rust through that last little bit. After testing for more leaks use plumbing paste flux and lead based solder if you have any. The old lead based solder is more ductile than the new lead free solder, so it is less likely to crack over time. If you don't have any of the lead based stuff don't worry, the lead free stuff will still work fine. Just to be on the safe side fill the can with water before soldering because you will probably need to use a torch when soldering. I have soldered several gas tanks this way and the repairs never failed. Though I did repair a Jeep gas tank that started to leak from a bunch of different places about a year later, which is why I suggested the hammer test. The original repair I made on that tank was a line of maybe 30 holes about 18 inches long. My repair solder patch was about 1 inch wide and about 19 inches long. The new leaks were adjacent to the patch. Tapping the tank bottom with a chipping hammer poked a bunch more holes. That tank was really rusted out.
Eric

 

[ovrszd]

You guys that say "replace it" just don't get it......

Eric, JB Weld is a very good product. Applied to the outside. I'd want the hole to be evident enough that I could squish the product thru the hole into the can a little. This would give it the best chance of bonding and staying put.

Keep us posted.

Awesome can!!! I have a smaller version with the more modern cap/vent system.

 

[nyone]

I've got my cherished collection of non "epa - osha" 5 gallon "cans" and one has developed a little leak on the bottom. All of them are in use and as I was planning services and the funeral, a spark of hope entered my thinking.
They have some stuff to repair automotive gas tanks so ....
Any recommendations or ideas? This particular can was for my 2 stroke "mix" for particular cleaning recommendations.

Fyi they still make non EPA cans. VP racing fuel jugs. There about twice as thick and I have seen them for $100-$120 a 4 pack. There caps also have O rings to seal.

I have started throwing my old cans out when they even leak air.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Solder would hold with a propane torch. If you don't have one, get one, handy for lots of things. I carry one with me daily. Step up to silver solder, if it's available. MAPP gas is in the yellow cylinders on the propane aisle, burns hotter. Lead core solder should do lovely. If you have oxygen acetylene, braze is a fine option. As for me, I can use a roll of metal tie wire. Or, my favorite, brown, non painted, clothes hangers. Thirty years ago I was in a field in Choctaw Oklahoma with a wrecked truck, donor truck, torch on two wheel cart, a few clothes hangers. Cut the frames in two at the exact scientifically measured location. Wrecked truck had straight frame again. Worked fine.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I have crimped the bottom of it's leaking on the seam. You might can get by with some gass tank epoxy. I have used it with good results evéry time. We used to buy used cars at auction. Sometimes a thief would hammer a hole in gas tank to steal gas. I'd use epoxy to fix. Also held on plastic radiators. Sand, clean, burn area with a torch, apply epoxy. Fixed car batteries that were cracked or busted. Now, I have a plastic welder, which has saved me some bucks.

The gas tanks were metal.

 

[ruffdog]

Fyi they still make non EPA cans. VP racing fuel jugs. There about twice as thick and I have seen them for $100-$120 a 4 pack. There caps also have O rings to seal.

I have started throwing my old cans out when they even leak air.

Scribner is another brand of HD jug.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've seen those racing jugs, they appear to be well over 5 gallons. They do have my curiosity up and I figured that's where I'll end up one day.
I am careful to not store my metal cans on the ground, always on a board or stick to allow air space. But the reality is they are well over 30 years old and it's becoming a personal challenge now. Iirc they were $8-9 when I bought them and it cost $5 to fill it up.
Thanks I think I'll try JB, easy and although I have propain and O/A I haven't brazed anything forever and beyond sweating a pipe, not much experience soldering there, especially galvanized steel.
I'll keep you informed on this ground breaking exciting project!

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

I've got my cherished collection of non "epa - osha" 5 gallon "cans" and one has developed a little leak on the bottom. All of them are in use and as I was planning services and the funeral, a spark of hope entered my thinking.
They have some stuff to repair automotive gas tanks so ....
Any recommendations or ideas? This particular can was for my 2 stroke "mix" for particular cleaning recommendations.

If it's a rust through' then toss it. If it rusted through in one place, how many others are not far behind? The only other solution I can think of that doesn't involve flame in a gas can, would be cleaning the bottom to bare metal and J B Welding a patch over the hole, or over the entire bottom. The bigger the area cleaned and the bigger the patch, the better.

 

[Topzide]

You could purge the can with a hose on the exhaust of a gasoline engine. That way you could then pass a flame by the opening to see if vapors are still present. Have used this technique to weld on a fuel oil cell. Prop the cap open at all times during the repair. Get some good soldering paste for steel and Siler solder as others have mentioned. Stronger repair potential with Silver solder. Check the whole can bottom to make sure worth the time and effort. Have soldered up many a galvanized steel drip tray.

 

[gstrom99]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the prospect of decreased value of this "restored vintage fuel container". Maybe it shouldn't be repaired... The good thing about the "sealer kits" is that nothing shows on the outside.