Satoh S650G tractor

[Bl8tant]

I'll second the pipe wrench idea if the head is rounded. Also, take a hammer and lightly tap the bolt for a few minutes. Just light to moderate tapping will often help a siezed bolt.

You mentioned a drain plug. Where is the drainplug located? If you removed the one on the belly of the tractor, you drained out the 80W-90 gear oil from the transmission. You may already know, but he 650 has a seperate reservoir for the hyraulics and the tranny. Tranny takes 5 gallons of 80W-90 gear oil. Hydraulics use approx. 1 gallon of universal hydraulic fluid.

 

[Devil-Dog]

B/8...the drain plug I removed is EXACTLY where you pointed in the pic for where the SCREEN Filter was suppose to be.Except when i removed this plug,,it was MAGNATISED on the end of the bolt and had NO screen WHATSOEVER behind the bolt.Just a Magnatized bolt. So,,,I was tring to remove the OTHER bolt in the pic which was a BIGGER bolt in hopes this was where the screen filter is. This bolt is like maybe,,,twice the size of the drain plug for the hydraulics and DIRECTLY in front of the bolt which you showed me in the pic. If this bolt ALSO doesnt have a screen behind it,,,then my conclusion is SOMEONE else who owned the tractor BEFORE us,,,Removed the screen filter and REPLACED the bolt with a magnet on the end of the bolt instead of the screen.

And Kernopelli,,,,Yes I tried a BOXED in wrench as well as a 6 point scocket and YEs its rouned on a point or two on the bolt,,I havent tried a pipe wrench yet but NOW Im not sure this SECOND bolt Im trying to remove is a bolt or not cause directly on the opposite side of the tractor in the SAME EXACT location is another bolt the SAMe EXACT size and it WONT budge either. If you look at B/8 s pic where he is pointing,,,I removed that bolt and all that was there is MAGNATIZED bolt instead of a screen. Now DIRECTLY in front of B/8s finger to the RIGHT of his finger is the NEXT bolt Im trying to remove to see if the screen is there???????
Hope this makes since to Both of you guys and Ill wait to hear from BOTH you guys before I proceed any further...Thanks my New Found tractor friends
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Kernopelli]

I am not familiar enough with your tractor to say for certain if that is supposed to be the filter screen location. My Mitsubishi is quite different even though it is a "family" member. Bl8tant does however seem to know quite a bit about this model so I am confident he has given you good information and if a screen isn't there, it is MIA.
This leaves me to think that someone probably has removed the screen and replaced it with the magnet.
I would contact Bill at Valley Power 1-800-609-5110 vppinc@cox.net satohparts.com he is a Satoh expert. Explain the situation and tell him about the post you have made here on TBN ( he is a member here and he may want to look at the thread to better familiarize himself with the situation). He can probably supply a new filter and give any additional help you made need.
Let us know how it all turns out.

 

[mit]

just a hunch here. not familar with your model but the filter screen is normally on the suction of the hydralic pump.this position has to be near the lower portion of the transmission.on my tractor it is in front the rear axle. same side where you remove the bolt.there is a plate secured by bolts.behind that plate is my screen.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Great News & Bad News
Great News is,,,,After flushing out the hydraulics and putting in fresh NEW hydraulic oil AND cleaning the screen,,,,the Arms lifted HIGHER than they EVER did before. Bad news is now that everythings clean,,,Oil is POURING out BOTH seals on BOTH Arms. Guess I need to remove the entire Arm assembly and try to put NEw bushings and new oil seals so oil will stay FULL.

Now on to another problem...Tractor is OVERHEATING so I tried to REMOVE the thermostat housing so as I can take out the thermostat. I removed every single bolt and hose I saw and I still cant get the housing to break the seal and let the water out so i can remove the therostat. On her tractor,,,the Fan and thermostat housing is made together. looks like someone had been in it before me due toa lot of CLEAR silocone arond housing. I even tried to PRY housing loose can cant get it to budge. Dont want to pry to hard in fear of breaking the housing,,,,Any suggestions???
Sincerely
Devil-Dog

Semper-Fi to all my tractor fans who have helped me learn a lot about these Tractors

 

[oliver28472]

I don't think you'll have to remove the hydraulic case to replace those seals. Go to satohparts.com, choose "parts" on the left, scroll down to the 650, then hydraulic case (for a diagram). Looks like you might need 18, 20, 21 and 22 for both sides. Call them before you order to make sure. Bill or Lemuel will help. Looks like for each side you can remove the bolt holding the lift arm on the shaft, pull the lift arm off the splined rockshaft. Remove the three bolts and pull that piece off the side too. Shouldn't be too bad. I did this on my Buck but it's a whole different and smaller tractor.

 

[Devil-Dog]

thanks Oliver will do that,,,but now need help on breaking the seal on the thermostat housing to remove the thermostat,,,,tractor running hot after only 15 minutes of running

 

[mit]

if you cannot remove the thermostat housing try to put water thru the hose to see if it goes down.if water passes there may not be a thermostat there.the trouble could be the radiator.

 

[Bl8tant]

What are the symptoms you are seeing from overheating?.......water spewing out of the radiator, missing, knocking, or just the indicator light coming on? If all you are getting is the indicator light on the tach, then I would confirm overheating. A faulty sending unit can cause the light to come on...as an example, the oil light on mine comes on frequently, so I installed an actual gauge in the sending unit port.....plenty of oil pressure, faulty sending unit.
Just trying to cover the simple things first.

 

[Devil-Dog]

B/8
After mowing for only 10 or 15 minutes the radiator actually boils over hot and hisses. Didnt do this before so I figured my t-stat must be stuck closed and
Mit when i pour water down the neck leading to the t-stat it fills up the neck and stays full...I have ALL bolts removed from the housing but it JUST wont BUDGE and WONT break the FACTORY seal to let the water out and come off to replace t-stat and clean up. Talked to BILL last night on the phone and he says the Japs used some special stuff when they put this EARLIEST model together and it was a BEAR to remove,,,,Dont want to litterly BEAT the crap out of it and break it,,lol But i have to get it off somehow????? thanks ALL you guys for your Loyal support and help for helping this disabled vet turned farmer try to be a machanic on this OLD tractor. So far with all your advice I have done great BUT,,,,it was only because I had All YOU GUYS help for guidence,,,,,Semper-Fi my new found friends
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[Bl8tant]

That's definitely overheating for real

You are right to be cautious about beating on the housing. Be particularly careful about the "ear" that the coil bolts to..it breaks off pretty easy. I would suggest using a little bit of heat (just get it hot, not glowing red) and then try to tap a small screwdriver into the seam to try to seperate the housing.
Good Luck!

 

[Lucky1]

The radiator on these tractors is small and will over heat easy. make sure you have it blown out good. One of mine was over heating and it turned out the fan belt was not tight enough.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Ok,,,,,,
Whewwwwwww,,Finally took the t-stat housing OFF and OMG ,,,The thermostat feel apart in the housing...All I could find was the BIG metal ring that recessed in the housing and the tip to the thermostat,,,the big round medtal pellet I call it was GONE,,,have NO CLUE where it went. I took a garden house and FLUSHED the block of the engine out REALLY good 4 times,,,Twice through where the t-stat was,,,I flushed it out and it over-ran through the bottom radiator hose,,,,then twice I put the hose in the bottom radiator hose and let it overflow through the hole where the t-stat was,,,,,I then took the radiator and FLUSHED out out twice too top and bottom and FOUND NOTHING when I flushed ALL of them out. Should I replace the T-Stat or run the tractor WITHOUT a t-Stat??????? And if you say repl;ace the T-Stat,,,,,what type since I cant COMPARE my old one to a NEW one at parts store since mine was desentagraded???????Also broke the housing when removing but Bill says he has plenty so MONDAY afternoon Ill be callinh him to order the new or Used T-stat housing....Thats about it so far guys till I get some parts here at home from Valley...Just for now need some info as to run tractor WITH or WITHOUT a T-Stat??????
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog
thanks.....Lucky,,,,B/8,,,,,Mit.........Oliver.....Kernopelli & anyoneone I missed

 

[Bl8tant]

Since you live in Florida, I would NOT replace the thermostat. Just my opinion though.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Good enough for me B/8
Will NOT replace thermostat,,,,thanks,,,,Ordering another t-stat housing today from Bill and ship NORMALLY to Florida so dont know how long it will take but will keep ALL my friends here updated as I get this unit back together,,,,Thanks again
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[mit]

can you have the housing welded back as a spare?

 

[Devil-Dog]

No mit,,,,
Already threw it away,,lol
Didnt think of it to be honest,,,,,Will be putting tractor back together 1st weekend og August,,,,Got the parts today,,,,Friday
Semper-Fi to all
Devil-Dog

 

[Devil-Dog]

OK guys
I removed the ENTIRE top plate to see what type of hydraulic screen I DO HAVE and its about the size of a small cigar in diameter and goes completely from one side of the bottom of the tank to the other side,,,,Filling the ENTIRE floor of the tank. There is a BIG bolt directly in line with this screen on the outside of the box,,,On the right hand side of the tractor,,,And using 100 psi of air pressure and a HIGH dollar 1/2 impact wrench and a 6 point socket,,,,I CAN NOT GET THIS BOLT to BUDGE,,,,Any suggestions???????? ON the left hand side of the tractor,,,in line with this same screen is a METAL tube with the same size bolt and washer and I REALLY DONT want to remove this side in fear of maybe starting another LEAK in the future. Awaiting any replys. Thanks Guys and SEMPER-FI to ALL
Semper-Fi
Devil-Dog

 

[gregj783]

Since you have the top off can you clean it in place?

Other alternative is a really good 6 point wrench and a looooong cheater bar. Of course, sometimes things break when doing this.

I have a satoh 650 but have never tried removing the screen. Is there any chance this has left handed thread? I can't imagine why it would.

 

[Devil-Dog]

Yes Greg I can clean it,,,,BUT,,,It has holes in it and would like to replace it,,,,Will try a pull bar with a pipe or go buy a LONGGGGG wrench and try,,,,Dont know how else to get it off after attempting it with an air-impact driver?????? thanks for the reply & Semper-Fi my friend