rustydollar
Silver Member
My flywheels are at the machine shop, the Mazda wheel is very thick. Both the Kubota and Mazda engines were internally balanced so interchanging the flywheels is a snap. just have to reposition the crankshaft holes and use the Mazda pressure plate and disk.
The Mazda gear case has been cast to position the starter on the RH side and you need to position your starter in the same location otherwise there would be no room for the Bendix gear to engage.
To re-purpose an engine just remember that all the bell housing bolts radiate from the crankshaft center, for those that know their geometry the layout would be a simple task.
My math skills suck, went this route using cheater disks to find my centers, then placed my marks using a transfer punch. Once the fist bell housing was marked out the seconed housing was doweled to the crank center.
Satoh front frame has a cross member welded with bolt holes that attach to the lower gear case housing the previous fellow who did this swap notched it out. I'll be grinding the welds free then re welding it into its new position as I'm using a full faced adapter plate.
He also ground some external ribs from the Kubota engine block to make room for the starter, I'm going to cant the engine 6 degrees to the right to allow for clearance with out destroying the future core value of the block should the need arise.
He also notched the frame to clear the oil filter, remote filter adapters are available for the Kubota.
Hydraulic lines have to be extended, rad moved forward.
Going with what little information given on the engine swap, my first adapter plate is a disaster. The new plate as I said will be full face with a repositioning and welding of the frame brace - no notching.
My cheaters that I used below to locate centers.
The Mazda gear case has been cast to position the starter on the RH side and you need to position your starter in the same location otherwise there would be no room for the Bendix gear to engage.
To re-purpose an engine just remember that all the bell housing bolts radiate from the crankshaft center, for those that know their geometry the layout would be a simple task.
My math skills suck, went this route using cheater disks to find my centers, then placed my marks using a transfer punch. Once the fist bell housing was marked out the seconed housing was doweled to the crank center.
Satoh front frame has a cross member welded with bolt holes that attach to the lower gear case housing the previous fellow who did this swap notched it out. I'll be grinding the welds free then re welding it into its new position as I'm using a full faced adapter plate.
He also ground some external ribs from the Kubota engine block to make room for the starter, I'm going to cant the engine 6 degrees to the right to allow for clearance with out destroying the future core value of the block should the need arise.
He also notched the frame to clear the oil filter, remote filter adapters are available for the Kubota.
Hydraulic lines have to be extended, rad moved forward.
Going with what little information given on the engine swap, my first adapter plate is a disaster. The new plate as I said will be full face with a repositioning and welding of the frame brace - no notching.
My cheaters that I used below to locate centers.
