Rust removal tool

[Dougwatts]

A friend gave me 9 corral panels. Although they're only 3 years old, they're rusting badly, so I'd like to clean them up and paint them. Any suggestions? Specifically, what tool would you recommend for removing rust (easily)? I have an air compressor, so it could be an air tool.

I plan on buying a sprayer, but would appreciate any thoughts you have on type of sprayer.

 

[BIGUN]

My preference would be a sand blaster. Harbor Freight has several for not a lot of money. Your compressor may have enough CFMs to run some of them. The larger the blaster and compressor the less time it will take.
They got sprayers too. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[mahlers]

Will you be painting the panels? If you're going to paint them, why not just treat them with a rust converter - that's the easiest way to tackle it. Have a look at POR-15 as an example of a product that seems to work really well.

 

[JimMorrissey]

If you get a sand blaster you had better make sure to get a tyvek suit and the full head gear (over your shoulders). You will also need an area far away from automobiles or anything with a nice finish. The sand will travel for many 10s of feet and "etch" anything it hits. Sand blasting is highly effective with the right gear, but very messy.

 

[JJT]

I'd use a wire brush in an angle grinder, (air or electric). Then give the panels a coat of primer and 2 coats of finish.

 

[TonyC]

I've got quite a bit of experience in this area, both good and bad. The first thing I always do is try to shy people away from sandblasting. Don't get me wrong...sandblasting is terrific. The problem is you can't do it half way when you're working with large items. I have a rig I use quite well for small parts the size of my hand. For items like you have...trust me...you need a BIG compressor with a good dryer and a high quality sand blast unit, suits, headgear, nozzles etc. Anything less will end up in a lot of work and a big mess.

I agree with JJT. Go with a high quality wire wheel on a hand held grinder. Cheap ones will wear out quickly and send wire everywhere. You might also consider a good rust preventative. I use a product called Rust-Mort. It's usually available at good auto body paint stores. It's a little bit expensive but works great. Unlike the jellys it is almost like water so you can spray it on. It is made to work on rust and NOT bare metal so all you need to do is knock the worst of it off with the wire wheel first.

As far as sprayers go, I'm no expert there. I can tell you that I own this one from Harbor Freight and I have been very happy with it for several years. For heavier paints, you'll need this nozzle set.

Good luck!

 

[BIGUN]

On second thought I would have to agree, there are probably too many things on the downside of sandblasting. I was just thinking of the fine looking job they do on rusted metal. The performance of a blaster that would run off the size compressor you likely have at the house would be painfully slow. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif As for protective gear I was thinking heavy clothes, leather gloves, ear plugs, face shield, upwind on a real windy day. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Probably not good enough. Forget the sandblasting. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[DiskDoctr]

Anyone used a needle scaler? I was considering getting one of these for rusted items and wondered how well it would work?

Maybe it would work here?

As far as I can tell, it would be like using a welding chipping hammer to chip off rust, but MUCH faster.

Here is a picture of one... Northern Tool- Needle Scaler

Any advice?

Thanks.

-JC

 

[SPIKER]

do you have a good battery charger?

rreason I ask is there is a electrical method which works like crazy!. If you look under the "Projects forum and I think I postecd links under Painting a tractor, lots of links about this. uses plane ole water & a soada type soap. you will also need a pool/(plastic laid out so that water can cover the treated parts.) some sacrficial metal (rebar works great). and some copper wire...

(not at at home so I am missing my lniks )

anyhow it works great and have less effort involved.

Next method is grinder & wire brush with lots of hard work... then paint with metal prep/conditioner as a base then dry & top coat..


Mark M

 

[BobReeves]

Here is the link, Rust Removal

A cheap plastic play pool should work great

 

[daedong]

Bob,
I had to print that for my DIY library, These always a smart cookie out-there, just brilliant. I need an emotion-icon for brilliant. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bird]

JC, the needle scaler was the first thing I thought of when the original post was made. But I've never actually used one; just repaired a couple of high dollar ones that customers had broken or worn out. From what I've been told (remind you again; no personal experience), if you have something that's so rusty it actually has layers or scales, then the needle scaler is a great tool, but not worth using on light surface rust. And of course, I expect it would really dent thin sheet metal.

 

[BIGUN]

I would agree with Bird. I have watched them used at the plant and they are great for knocking off large chucks of rust on heavy iron. The metal isn't real clean afterwards and it would mangle light gauge metal tubing pretty badly.

 

[Junkman]

I can suggest with confidence a few cans of Oven Off oven cleaner. Spray it on and let it sit for a while. Then rinse and give another rinse with baking soda and water to neutralize the lye in the oven cleaner. It will leave a clean shiny surface that will immediately start to rust if you don't get some form of paint on it. I have done this many times with rusted items.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I can suggest with confidence a few cans of Oven Off oven cleaner. )</font>
And don't forget to use good protective gloves. That stuff can be very injurious to your body!
The navel jellies are really dangerous. You don't even know you've done any damage until it's pretty late. It can go through your clothes and you won't know it until it's hurt you. John

 

[Ozarker]

I've used scalers in the past. They are great for removing heavy scale from thick material such as frames. They are not good for light material such as car bodies and thin walled tubing.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks to all for the info on the needle scaler. I was thinking of using it for heavy parts, like when we changed the tires on an old dump truck and the rust in the edge of the rim or welding a split bucket.

I really like the battery charger idea, but haven't tried it yet. It should work quite well. I do understand that it is "line of sight", meaning if your rust can't see the sacrificial rod, it won't work on that part. Just a note...

-JC