Rust conversion

[trainman607]

Anybody have great experience with a rust conversion product?
Just bought a machine that spent a lot of time outside and it has some heavy rust on the cab and the attachments. Plan to wire brush and then treat with a conversion product before painting.

I have had GOOD luck with Benjamin Moore, Rust Converter, M82 00.

 

[MARK FROM LI]

I use Evapo Rust...it works as well as anything else

 

[macdoesit]

I used a pressure washer with sandblaster hook up on a brush hog and worked great. I had pics on my pc, now poof they are gone.

 

[Rovcketman357]

I used a pressure washer with sandblaster hook up on a brush hog and worked great. I had pics on my pc, now poof they are gone.

I appreciate all the replies to my question. And I forgot I bought a sandblast attachment with my pressure washer maybe 30 years ago and never used it!
What kind of sand did you use and also what protective equipment?
With the water do you get a lot of back in your face sand?

 

[Gord Baker]

I appreciate all the replies to my question. And I forgot I bought a sandblast attachment with my pressure washer maybe 30 years ago and never used it!
What kind of sand did you use and also what protective equipment?
With the water do you get a lot of back in your face sand?

 

[Gord Baker]

Depending on the severity of the pitting you might want to cart that assembly out to someone who has full size equipment. They could blast ( ask for SP 6 Blast {Commercial Blast})and prime it for you at a competitive cost to you doing it.

 

[Marauder]

Harbor Freight. Worked well for me with play sand
This one looks to be even better and only $5 more https://www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-59483.html

 

[bumperm]

The active ingredient in rust converters is phosphoric acid, as noted in previous posts. The acid converts or changes the iron or steel rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate. Phosphoric acid can also be used on bare aluminum so that primer will adhere properly when painting - Aluma-Prep is commonly used on aircraft for this purpose. The important thing is to remove all loose rust prior to applying the acid. Typical instructions say: Remove all loose rust, apply rust converter and let stand for 30 minutes. Rinse with water and dry or let dry.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Anybody have great experience with a rust conversion product?
Just bought a machine that spent a lot of time outside and it has some heavy rust on the cab and the attachments. Plan to wire brush and then treat with a conversion product before painting.

Scrape off the scale, that's not worth treating as it's not really attached to the metal. I use a hand-held wire brush and just brush off the loose stuff, then treat with the rust converter (phosphate something or other) that leaves a blackish coating that can then be painted. If the metal is eaten all the way through, you may be better off replacing the part or doing some serious strip down, rewelding, and rebuilding.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I use OSPHO - get it at a Paint Supply Store.

I used it and NAVAL Jelly some years ago on a Datsun hood (engine cover) that had never been painted; the exterior / upper surface was covered in rust. I used up a bottle of Naval Jelly covering teh entire thing. I let it set overnight or more, then hit it with the OSPHO and let it set. Then, I primed and painted it. It held up until somebody stole it!

The OSPHO turns the rusty surface(s) dark/black, You can wire brush it first or after. The OSPHO needs to penetrate beneath ALL the rust - so I like to do it a couple times before primer and paint. Use an etching primer first, then - if the smooth finish is important, Sanding/'Sandable' Primer and go through the grits to get to a baby's ass smooth before painting.

Stole it? Heh. You did too good of a job, obviously! ;-)