Rotary plow any tips?

[db556]

Well, it stopped snowing and its time to plow. I was given a bunch of attachments, and one was the rotary plow and the other was the rototiller attachment for the plow attachment.

Now I'm debating which to use the rotary plow, or the rototiller.
The garden in question is mid size I guess 50'x100' with a freshly mowed layer of winter grass or something(it my grandfathers garden) that we normally rototill under before planting.

So which would do the best job?
Also which gravely would be the best to run the attachment my 5240 or the L8?

 

[SandburRanch]

Well, it stopped snowing and its time to plow. I was given a bunch of attachments, and one was the rotary plow and the other was the rototiller attachment for the plow attachment.

Now I'm debating which to use the rotary plow, or the rototiller.
The garden in question is mid size I guess 50'x100' with a freshly mowed layer of winter grass or something(it my grandfathers garden) that we normally rototill under before planting.

So which would do the best job?
Also which gravely would be the best to run the attachment my 5240 or the L8?

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Try all your all your attachments. Plow half and till half then you can tell us which works best on your garden dirt.

 

[RichardTX]

The rotary plow is for plowing and the cultivator is for cultivating. When breaking up virgin soil or plowing in the spring, use the plow. It is what it was designed for. Trying to plow with a cultivator is like using a chisel as a screwdriver.

People have been misusing common roto-tillers ever since I can remember. The rototiller was never designed to break up hard ground but people do it anyway.

Since you are a first time user, I recommend you read the plow manual carefully. Start off by plowing at a shallow depth, then plow again using deeper passes.

Once set up properly, it should be super easy to control. A properly set up plow will just track with almost no effort just like the picture below.

Make sure it is filled with gear old before you start.

 

[2manyrocks]

Newer rotary plow manual here: http://www.oldgravelys.net/pdf/Rotary_Plow_NewStyle_Op_Man_0786.pdf

Good idea to go through all the manuals on that site and get every one that you might possibly need so you have them.

Best advice I was ever given was to be sure not to get my hips between the handle bars in case the plow hit a rock or stubborn rock. Something has to give and it does not need to be your body.

The rotary plow is amazing for its ability to plow and make a seedbed at the same time.

If you don't have a dirt shield on your plow, you may want to get one because it will throw your dirt quite a distance. You just want it broken-not thrown 4 feet to the side.

Which unit you use depends on how well it is running. L8 was probably king of the hill in it's day, but after years of use, you just have to look at what you have and how it runs now.

 

[whistlepig]

Well, it stopped snowing and its time to plow. I was given a bunch of attachments, and one was the rotary plow and the other was the rototiller attachment for the plow attachment.

Now I'm debating which to use the rotary plow, or the rototiller.
The garden in question is mid size I guess 50'x100' with a freshly mowed layer of winter grass or something(it my grandfathers garden) that we normally rototill under before planting.

So which would do the best job?
Also which gravely would be the best to run the attachment my 5240 or the L8?

You have to give the rotary plow a try. You will be amazed. People that haven't ever used a Gravely rotary plow have missed something in life.

 

[db556]

Just tried it out before dinner today, IT CAN THROW DIRT! ITS A DIRT CANNON! :thumbsup:

I was able to get down farther than I think that garden has ever been tilled in 93 years! (other than that time we had to dig out that burnt mattress)

I found for some reason it tilled better going in reverse? That sound odd? Going forward it jumped up a bit and didn't bite in as much. I'm going to have to put on the rototiller attachment and go to town on it tomorrow morning it it doesn't rain and even it out.

 

[whistlepig]

Just tried it out before dinner today, IT CAN THROW DIRT! ITS A DIRT CANNON! :thumbsup:

I was able to get down farther than I think that garden has ever been tilled in 93 years! (other than that time we had to dig out that burnt mattress)

I found for some reason it tilled better going in reverse? That sound odd? Going forward it jumped up a bit and didn't bite in as much. I'm going to have to put on the rototiller attachment and go to town on it tomorrow morning it it doesn't rain and even it out.

You have to have the wheels angled just right. It is an amazing device. It was thrown in with a Gravely I once bought. I took one look at it and said it could never work. You don't need to till after using the rotary plow. The ground is already pulverized.

 

[RichardTX]

Are you sure you have the plow itself angled correctly? Take a look at the pictures and instructions published in the old Model L tractor manuals.

Operate it at low rpm and at the lowest ground speed possible.

 

[db556]

I looked at the manual on old gravelys and figured out the problem the small arm that goes from the plow housing tube housing to the mount on the advance housing was missing and I didnt' even notice it, No wonder it jumped around. So I fabbed up a short term replacement out of a little piece of angle iron and it worked 100% better when going forward :thumbsup:

Tilled the crap out of the garden again just to make sure......double tap.......

I tried out the cultivator but I found the only 3/8" bolts I had were too long and locked up the ring gear need to put on some lock washers and try it again.

Using a rake is to much work to level it all out.

 

[jdboy4410]

yes,the rotary plow is the shiznit,once you have it set up right,it makes plowing quite easy.the tiller attachment is a cultivator only,never designed to dig the garden up,just till the surface for weeding purposes.i usually start at one side,set the plow at about a 45 degree angle,the wheels lowered to the highest position for unbroken ground,get to the end of the row,and return to where i started,drop the wheeles in the furrow,and start again until i get the whole garden plowed.then i go back and rake the dirt back into the last furrow.it is ready to plant then.the wheels have two adjustments,depth and width,the width of the cut is goverened by the position of the wheel bracket in relation to the depth wheel in the furrow.the closer the wheel bracket is to the depth wheel in the furrow,the narrower the cut and vice versa.the rotary plow can also be used as a trencher,and is also good for digging a hole to plant trees and shrubs.again,it is all in how you have the plow set up.i use my plow with my L model,i have used it with the commercial 10 as well,but the L model has more ground clearance at the engine and is why i choose it over the commercial 10.all in choice i guess,my old 62 model L does a fine job,i prefer it over the commercial 10,i just like the old gravely's,one mean machine !:thumbsup:

 

[RichardTX]

I looked at the manual on old gravelys and figured out the problem the small arm that goes from the plow housing tube housing to the mount on the advance housing was missing and I didnt' even notice it, No wonder it jumped around. So I fabbed up a short term replacement out of a little piece of angle iron and it worked 100% better when going forward :thumbsup:

Tilled the crap out of the garden again just to make sure......double tap.......

I tried out the cultivator but I found the only 3/8" bolts I had were too long and locked up the ring gear need to put on some lock washers and try it again.

Using a rake is to much work to level it all out.

When I break new ground, I start at a modest depth and plow per the manual which means starting at the center of the area and always make a right hand turn at the end of the furrow.

Then I set the depth a bit deeper and reverse the process meaning that I start at the edges and work my way in to the center. I then set for max depth and finish up using the book method. The reason for alternating is so that the dirt is more or less level when I am done and no raking is required.

Having a ditch on both sides of the garden is good. It helps keep excessive rain from flooding the seedlings.

 

[Grave Lee]

I inherited an old Model L8 with a ton of attachments.

Right now it has the rototiller on it, but I need to switch it to the rotary plow.

Do you just remove the rototiller from the 4 bolts under the safety shield?

Thanks.

 

[db556]

Ya, you remove the four bolts and then put in a little bit shorter ones to hold in the bearing/seal.

 

[RichardTX]

Make sure everything is full of oil before you run it. Old dried up seals can leak badly. Here is a picture of one plow drive I disassembled. There was about 4 tablespoons of nasty oil left in it.

 

[Grave Lee]

Thanks for the replies.

I removed the bolts and put in the shorter ones.

The attachment dog was bone dry on oil, so I put in about half a quart of SAE 90. I started her up and engaged the PTO and the oil went everywhere

Looks like I will have to get news seals for the attachment dog. Any suggestions on where I might find these seals and a blow up of the take down and reassembly of the gear housing?

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[RichardTX]

The attachment dog was bone dry on oil, so I put in about half a quart of SAE 90. I started her up and engaged the PTO and the oil went everywhere

Looks like I will have to get news seals for the attachment dog. Any suggestions on where I might find these seals and a blow up of the take down and reassembly of the gear housing?

Can you post a picture of what you are referring to? I haven't the foggiest notion of what you are talking about.

 

[Grave Lee]

If you look at the manual here:

http://www.oldgravelys.net/pdf/Model_L_Instruc_Man_0364.pdf

On page 16, figure 25 and page 17, figure 29 it shows the picture of what I was told was called the "attachment dog."

I need to take it apart and replace the seals in this "hound." If I had an interior blow up pic of the the device, I could be more secure in stripping it down and putting it back together.

Thanks.

 

[RichardTX]

Replacing the seals in the rotary plow drive is not difficult. There can be shims under each bearing cap. Do not mix them up or lose them. The shims were selected when it was built at the factory.

Here is a better parts diagram.

http://oldgravelys.net/pdf/Rotary_Plow_OldStyle_Own_Man_0774.pdf

I would remove one cap, install the new seal in the cap and reassemble. Then do the other side. If you need to replace the horiz shaft seals, remove that shaft and housing assembly from the drive and then disassemble on the bench.

Don't damage the seal retainers. Things will get complicated if you do..

Richard's (gravelyparts.com) has seals. Just call them and tell them what you want.

Their quick parts guide for the rotary plow is on page 12 at http://www.gravelyparts.com/pages/CustomPage/Index/3124

If the link above does not work, this one will...
http://www.gravelyparts.com/richard...tal/base/GravelySalesServiceparts16pg2011.pdf