Roller Build!

[Msalzwe]

Hello all!
I'm getting ready to build a BIG yard roller. I welcome your input and ideas along the way.
So the design I'm shooting for it to be able to use it both mounted on the 3pt as well as a removeable tow bar that can be attached to the draw bar like a trailer.
To achieve this I will fabricate a 3pt mount on one side and a tow bar on the other.
The main use for the 3pt will be primarily to load it onto a trailer to be used at some other location. It will also make a great counter balance as well!! It is VERY HEAVY!!
The roller I've acquired is half inch plate 66" long rolled 24" in diameter. It is capped with 1" plate and has a 3" solid shaft running all the way through.
It is also chrome plated around the outside :thumbsup:

 

[teg]

SWEET!!!! That should do the job!

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

That is quite the find! I am jealous. What was it?

 

[Wagtail]

One recommendation I can make regards the mounting of the roller to whatever frame you'll be using... do not 'hang' the roller from the frame. Have the frame 'hang' from the roller. This will save on bearing wear and, when lifting the implement, support it better.

Like this:

 

[Big Barn]

You would probably benefit from a pivoting spring loaded scraper plate. I'd take a closeup of mine but I just sold it last month.

Six foot diameter. 60 inch working width. 3/4" plate. Water filled with up to 500 gallons.

Only pic I have is of it leaving my yard.



Terry

 

[Msalzwe]

That is quite the find! I am jealous. What was it?

The guy I got it from thought it was used in a tire factory for some part of the process that sculpted the rubber.

 

[Msalzwe]

You would probably benefit from a pivoting spring loaded scraper plate. I'd take a closeup of mine but I just sold it last month.

Six foot diameter. 60 inch working width. 3/4" plate. Water filled with up to 500 gallons.

Only pic I have is of it leaving my yard.

View attachment 505725

Terry

Any particular material for the scraper blade? I was kicking around the idea of some UHMW sheets I've got laying around.
For the spring loaded part, what benefit would that have over a fixed blade? Does material want to stay attached that well on a roller?

Now that's a roller!!

 

[Msalzwe]

One recommendation I can make regards the mounting of the roller to whatever frame you'll be using... do not 'hang' the roller from the frame. Have the frame 'hang' from the roller. This will save on bearing wear and, when lifting the implement, support it better.

Like this:

My plan currently for the bearing is to machine some thick plate out and insert a bronze bushing and some grease fittings. The shaft size where the original bearings rode are 2 7/16". That's a mighty pricy pair of bearings.

 

[Big Barn]

Any particular material for the scraper blade? I was kicking around the idea of some UHMW sheets I've got laying around.
For the spring loaded part, what benefit would that have over a fixed blade? Does material want to stay attached that well on a roller?

Now that's a roller!!

Mine was a piece of 6" X 3/16" plate the full width of the roller.

Hinged and spring loaded. A fixed scraper blade will create problems with pebbles or other debris getting wedged between it and the rolling drum.

Terry

 

[Wagtail]

My plan currently for the bearing is to machine some thick plate out and insert a bronze bushing and some grease fittings. The shaft size where the original bearings rode are 2 7/16". That's a mighty pricy pair of bearings.

That's fine. I still recommend 'hanging' the frame for better support.

 

[ning]

My plan currently for the bearing is to machine some thick plate out and insert a bronze bushing and some grease fittings. The shaft size where the original bearings rode are 2 7/16". That's a mighty pricy pair of bearings.

These are in my general area - New pillow block bearings 2 3/4 dia - $40, 2.75". Is there a cylindrical shim you could use that's ~1/8" thick?

 

[Msalzwe]

These are in my general area - New pillow block bearings 2 3/4 dia - $40, 2.75". Is there a cylindrical shim you could use that's ~1/8" thick?

I'm not sure if a shim is available for that but I've got a lathe and mill. I could turn one out easily. Thanks!

 

[Densleigh]

Hi,

If your roller build is for field use why not use a hardwood block bearing (oak) these are fitted to commercial field rollers here in UK - they are able to absorb shock loads and are cheap to replace.

link to a Uk based manufacturer

Land Roller Bearing 65mm • Fleming Agri-Products Ltd

 

[Wagtail]

Hi,

If your roller build is for field use why not use a hardwood block bearing (oak) these are fitted to commercial field rollers here in UK - they are able to absorb shock loads and are cheap to replace.

link to a Uk based manufacturer

Land Roller Bearing 65mm • Fleming Agri-Products Ltd

That is a bloody good idea. And probably an 'old as dirt' idea to boot.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

That is a bloody good idea. And probably an 'old as dirt' idea to boot.

X2.
How does the grain run on these? Parallel to the shaft or perpendicular?

 

[dragoneggs]

X2.
How does the grain run on these? Parallel to the shaft or perpendicular?

From the pic it looks perpendicular... thinking parallel would be better, no? I do like the wood idea though!

 

[Msalzwe]

Very interesting! Ive got no experience with wood bushings. Is there some sort of housing I would need to fab for this or is that another part I can purchase? I didn't see anything about using grease or oil. Is it possibly intended to be run dry?

 

[Wagtail]

Very interesting! Ive got no experience with wood bushings. Is there some sort of housing I would need to fab for this or is that another part I can purchase? I didn't see anything about using grease or oil. Is it possibly intended to be run dry?

I very much doubt it... there'd be some lubrication involved; even if it's 'old school' lard or beeswax. Friction is still friction and you'd want to have it last as long as possible. You'd also want to protect the wood from the weather/sun over the long periods between usage. I only use my ballast-roller annually, but I still spray the bearings with lanolin 3-4 times a year as it's my only implement that sits 'outside'.

 

[Densleigh]

Hi,

Glad the wood block bearing idea is liked.

The grain is horizontal. i.e the bolts stop it splitting along the grain. Lubrication (grease is required) and yes a simple tin cover will stop it rotting either from rain or sun. they can be any hardwood - Lignum Vitae is probably best but very expensive and very very hard (used in lawn Bowls and sinks in water!) should be cut whilst still green as when it has dried out it is harder than steel a tungsten blade will not touch it.

Yes its old school all farm wagons used these sort of things before we had steel / bronze etc bearings.

 

[Renze]

From the pic it looks perpendicular... thinking parallel would be better, no? I do like the wood idea though!

Perpendicular or dirt particles will rub off grains.. And boil the bearing block very slowly in used oil to impregnate the wood. Now if a bearing runs dry, it will suck oil from the wood to the friction surface. Its the archetype of self lubricated bearings and easy to do on an outdoor stove.