Replacing starter and ignition coils on PT422

[BobRip]

I am checking to see if I have the updated starter and ignition to eliminate cold starting problems in my PT422. It looks like I might have to remove the engine to do this. Has anyone already done this? Is it necessary to remove the engine?
I have disconnected the front pump, but there is not enough room to slide the engine fan shroud out. Any suggestions would be appreciated. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[DHS]

I have a three year old 422. Two years ago I replaced the starter and the ignition coils. I performed the operation without removing the engine from the compartment. However, I had to disconnect the hydraulic pumps on both ends of the main shaft and I removed the engine mounting bolts. I did not have to break any hydraulic hose connections. At that point pulling the engine would have been easy but I didn't need to. It was not a hard job but it was tight.

The coils and starter helped cool weather starting. When the temperature is between 30 below and 20 above I cover the rear section with a couple tarps and warm the engine and oil tank for an hour with a 115 volt baseboard heater that fits neatly under the engine compartment.

The coils and starter helped but mine still needs warming when it is very cold. In fairness to Robin, the three hydraulic pumps with cold oil is a considerable starting load to spin. I really like the Robin. I would like to hear if the non-Robin PT-425 owners have starting problems at zero degrees.

DHS

 

[BobRip]

Thanks for the reply. Did you disconnect the engine from its mounting bracket or the bracket from the power trac?

Bob Rip

 

[toy]

Didn't someone say that there was a mark on the starter maybe a color spot on the starter? If my memory is correct couldn't you maybe use a mirrow and hold it to reflect on the starter so you could see the mark without taking anything loose, I don't know if this is possible since I am not looking at it myself but it is a suggestion that might work for you.

 

[BobRip]

I was given a model number by Jack Gawecki of Robin. Nothing about a spot. Maybe Jack will see this. I will call him Monday if I don't have it resolved by then.

Thanks,

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Oh, there is a white mark on the coils if they are new. Mine do not have them. Does this also mean the starter is the old verson?

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> I would like to hear if the non-Robin PT-425 owners have starting problems at zero degrees. </font>

No problems with the Kohler yet. This will be my 4th winter with it.

From what I've read, Robin is making some excellent decisions in dealing with the problems that they have been made aware of. Their future looks bright.

 

[DHS]

I disconnected the engine from its mounting bracket. The mounting bracket supports the forward pump and it is easier to rotate and move the engine when it is separated from the mounting bracket. Disconnecting the engine from its mounting bracket requires engine alignment with the forward pump during assembly. I eyeballed it and have not had any alignment problems. It takes some time and luck to line up the shaft and pumps when assembling but it is not to frustrating.

DHS

 

[BobRip]

Ok, I will start this procedure now. What a great resource this site is.

Thanks,

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Well, a couple of hours later I have the starter out. I could not easily get to the engine bolts, so I removed the engine bracket bolts from the frame of the PT422. I then removed the fuel pump and both hydraulic pumps and the gas tank. I was able to slide the engine about 2 inches towards the fuel pump side and this gave me clearance to remove the cylindral baffle (sheet metal part which is around the starter and directs air to the cylindral). I was then able to remove the starter. It is the older starter as it is labeled 0.8 kw. I will call Jack of Robin tomorrow and request a new starter and coils.

I do have the Robin service manual and it was some help, although the starter was a little different than pictured.

Many thanks to those who answered my questions and gave me the courage to do this. I took a few pictures and will post them soon.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

I am sending a few pictures.
The one of the fuel pump side does not really give you an idea of the advantage of this removal, but by removing the fuel pump I was able to slide the engine and bracket about two inches towards the fuel pump side and then was able to remove the start which is on the other side.

 

[BobRip]

This picture shows the starter motor side of the engine. The starter motor has already been removed. Please note that one ignition coil is visible. Also both front and back hydraulic pumps have been unbolted. It may not be necessary to unbolt the back pump. I have rebolted it with one bolt and will try to finish the job with it installed. Also note that the gas tank and gas tank bracket have been removed.
I am not quite sure how to get to the coil on the fuel pump side of the engine, but I will investigate this further once I have replaced the starter motor side coil and the starter motor.

 

[BobRip]

This is a picture of the gas tank. Pretty boring. Please note that on the left side is a little white valve. I had previously installed this so that I would not have to drain the fuel tank when I removed it. This saved me a little time.

So far I have not had to disconnect any hydraulic lines.

 

[duane]

Hey BobRip,

What is the part number of the NAPA filter that you are using for a hydraulic filter.

Duane

 

[BobRip]

It's NAPA 1551. NAPA crossed referenced it from the number of the original filter. I have been using it for four years.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

I called Jack Gawecki of Robin today. I gave him the model number off of the old starter and the engine model number, spec number, and serial number. I sent him a fax with this info and my address and then called him back. He stated he would send out a starter and two ignition coils today. My hat is off to Robin. The tractor is four years old and they still send me parts free.
Jack stated that I should be running synthetic oil in the engine and transmission to help with cold starting.

I have one of the valve covers off and it looks very clean inside. I will be adjusting the valve clearance while I have it off. Robin recommends this at 500 hours and I am over 400.

Again, thanks Jack for the support. It looks like Power Trac made the right decision in going with Robin.

 

[BobRip]

I thought it might be a good idea to attach a picture of the starter. The left end of the starter goes towards the front of the tractor. You can see the 0.8 KW rating. The new one is 1 KW. This is about 25% more power and probably torque.
The label on mine was coated with dirt and I could not read or see the label until I removed the starter and wiped the dirt off. The label is up and maybe you can see it with a mirror when the cylinder baffel is on. I did not try that.

 

[BobRip]

I got the new starter and ignition coils today. It took about a week. I started the installation of the new coils. It looks like the gap between the coil and the armature is about 0.014 inches. Does anyone know exactly what it should be.
I hate to set it wrong.

BobRip

 

[DHS]

I checked my notes. Jack told me .012 to .020 was the spec. That is what I used and they work. Replacing the coils is an interesting project isn't it?

DHS

 

[BobRip]

Thanks again. Yes this is tight. I had to remove the battery last night. I have a lot of bolts out right now. I am going to adjust the valve backlash and clean the cooling fins while I have it apart.

Bob Rip