Loader Repair vs replace bucket links

[Husaberger]

My 2000 hr L4740 has seen some pretty heavy use and the bucket has a fair amount of slop
6 replacement links will cost me about $600
Has anyone out there repaired them?
060, 070, and 080 in the drawing

 

[big bubba]

pins that connect those parts must be worn too? # 10 & 20

 

[Husaberger]

pins that connect those parts must be worn too? # 10 & 20

Yup
Got those already

 

[mikester]

If you have your own machine shop and work after hours your time is "free". If you have to hire a machine shop to repair then $600 is probably cheaper and faster to buy replacements from K.

 

[Schmitty1]

I've got the same issue. I replaced the 6 lowest pins on the FEL with no improvement. I bought the 6 link pieces and swapped them in a few weeks ago with no improvement, either. With everything apart it is easier to see that there is significant slop around the bucket curl rod eye, which has a $160 bushing that I have not replaced, yet. There is also significant slop at the barrel end eye that does not have a bushing.

My next step is to remove the rod eye and barrel pins and measure the dimensions to see if they line up with the specs from this (incorrect) table. The table is from an L35, but the dimensions are similar/identical to the LA854, and the LA854/L4740 WSMs do not have a similar table available.

From the preliminary measurements I've taken so far the LA854 appear to be within tolerance, a tolerance that seems to be quite loose...

 

[5030]

What I did was I ordered ONE new link from my dealer and plotted it and cut a complete set on my CNC plasma table and then made my own pins from bar stock but instead of counterboring the pins and recessing the fittings (which I don't like anyway because all they do is fill up with crud), I changed the grease point to the weldment between the linkages. I did pay a restock fee to return the new but not used dog bone linkage to Kubota. Don't need it and I have the plot in my computer now. After I cut them, I added a welded on boss on each one I cut from pipe stock. That distributes the load much better and mitigates the pin and dog bone wear appreciably. In fact, my dealer wants me to cut a couple sets for him as well. I can purchase the sheet stock and cut them for about 1/4th of what Kubota wants for them and I'm sure they are subbing that out to someone with a CNC plasma table anyway. They aren't making them in house.

When I examined the Kubota part carefully, I could see not only the plasma cut line but the piercing point as well.

Not rocket science, just copying a part they have subbed out.

 

[5030]

Construction type hoes and loaders will all have bushings installed that can be renewed. Light duty units will not.

 

[5030]

If you have your own machine shop and work after hours your time is "free". If you have to hire a machine shop to repair then $600 is probably cheaper and faster to buy replacements from K.

Very fair statement however, I own and operate a short run machine and welding shop so I have all the necessary tools and machines to make my own and yes, my time is my own so long as the machines aren't being used for customer work. Far as the rod end bushings are concerned, I would make them from 660 CA oil impregnated bar stock which is easily replaceable and easily machined as well. Steel bushings bearing on steel pins will always wear in an oval manner, depending on how the load is applied over time. I'm sure it's not profitable for Kubota or any other non construction orientated manufacturer of tractors, backhoe's or front loaders to supply their units with replaceable bushings. Much easier and less time consuming to just make them steel on steel.

My take is on any non industrial application, just keep them well greased with a high quality synthetic EP grease. Don't Kubota recommend greasing all the pivot points every 10 working hours? I'd be greasing them every time I used them actually and I do on my loaders anyway. Grease is cheap, rebuilding the linkages isn't.

 

[Husaberger]

I've got the same issue. I replaced the 6 lowest pins on the FEL with no improvement. I bought the 6 link pieces and swapped them in a few weeks ago with no improvement, either. With everything apart it is easier to see that there is significant slop around the bucket curl rod eye, which has a $160 bushing that I have not replaced, yet. There is also significant slop at the barrel end eye that does not have a bushing.

My next step is to remove the rod eye and barrel pins and measure the dimensions to see if they line up with the specs from this (incorrect) table. The table is from an L35, but the dimensions are similar/identical to the LA854, and the LA854/L4740 WSMs do not have a similar table available.

From the preliminary measurements I've taken so far the LA854 appear to be within tolerance, a tolerance that seems to be quite loose...

View attachment 872350

Welp. I bought all the links
Will report back if any improvement

What's the part no for the $160 bushing JIC?

 

[rScotty]

Welp. I bought all the links
Will report back if any improvement

What's the part no for the $160 bushing JIC?

I'm curious what a $160 bushing looks like. It must be plenty fancy.