Refinishing options for backhoe paint

[tractortroof]

Sandblasting quote was $1700, I want to remove the rust for sure, maybe not $1700 worth of want. This would be a family heirloom and would be worth preserving. I’m gathering that any other method of removing rust on something of this size could take excessive labor? Any ideas?

I could do it in sections, but is there anything that’ll remove the rust? Giant wire wheel? What’s the biggest wheel I could use? There is no salt here in Florida

 

[tractortroof]

Got a second quote today, if I bring it to them, they’ll knock down the rust spots for $3k

 

[3Ts]

How are you going to protect the bearings and other critical parts from the sand blasting? Sand will get into everything even when protected.

 

[4570Man]

I wouldn’t sandblast a put together and workable machine. You’ll have sand in absolutely everything. I’d leave it alone and do nothing but if you we’re going to paint it I’d start with preferably a hot water pressure washer and degrease everything. Then I’d hit the rust with either a wire wheel or a flap disk.

 

[tractortroof]

Some people are telling me that rust converting paint would work on surface rust? Not sure who to believe

 

[xrjohndeere]

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Sandblasting quote was $1700, I want to remove the rust for sure, maybe not $1700 worth of want. This would be a family heirloom and would be worth preserving. I’m gathering that any other method of removing rust on something of this size could take excessive labor? Any ideas?

I could do it in sections, but is there anything that’ll remove the rust? Giant wire wheel? What’s the biggest wheel I could use? There is no salt here in Florida

I would not sandblast it unless you are taking it apart. Like previous poster said the sand will get into every crack, crevice, bearing. Take off what you can to blast. Wire wheel the rest. You can use rust converter on surface rust once you get the loose rust off. It will turn it black and stop further rust. It works. Painting a machine and making it look good is very labor intensive and costly to do it right. You may try and buff some of the main tractor and see if there is enough paint left to get the shine back. Good luck. Big project.

 

[CADplans]

Go to Lowes, get "purple cleaner",, apply undiluted.

After setting, pressure wash,,
then
apply muriatic acid to the rust. (also at Lowes, in the swimming pool supply area)
Hose off, then pressure wash again.
Heat with a propane weed burner from HF,,

I paint as soon as dry,,

No sand blasting needed, maybe a wire brushing,,

 

[spitter]

Wire wheel . Cup type , flat ,pointy whatever it takes to get scaly rust off. Ospho rust converter . Then top coat of paint . Lots of beer . that's what it takes to keep my older equipment looking good . Oh everything I have is old .

People always ask when did you get a new one ? Never just gave the old one a little touch up . They always seem to run better when they get a little TLC.

 

[Boss 302]

POR-15, it's a very good rust encapsulating paint that contains it. You should at least check it out.

 

[caver]

This guy just hired some guys to come out and steam clean it. He may have done a little sanding but he wasn't clear he just mentioned sanding.

 

[nyone]

POR-15, it's a very good rust encapsulating paint that contains it. You should at least check it out.

No it dosnt..it just makes a layer of paint that water will get into causing more rust. Same for the "rust converting" paint. It's all junk and you can tell this by how they want you to prep the surface

Good old fashion elbow grease with a 4.5in grinder and knotted cup brush is the way to go. then an epoxy primer followed by your paint of choice.

 

[Egon]

Old equipment & rust.

Lots of work. Pressure wash, wire wheel, sanding disks, needle scaler and sand blaster can all be used for the original clean up. This should be followed by a rust inhibitor agent and then some rust inhibiting paint.

The rust inhibitor will cancel surface rust and also the inter-granular rust you can’t see. (Yes, a well wire brushed shiny surface can still contain rust that is not seen by one’s eye.)

 

[supratreo]

if your just painting and not restoring then id say used a combination of wirewheels/cups/sanding disks. you dont need to remove all of the paint, just degrease well and paint. also, if this machine get used often or sits outside, dont expect it to look pretty for long.

 

[droy]

No it dosnt..it just makes a layer of paint that water will get into causing more rust. Same for the "rust converting" paint. It's all junk and you can tell this by how they want you to prep the surface

Good old fashion elbow grease with a 4.5in grinder and knotted cup brush is the way to go. then an epoxy primer followed by your paint of choice.

I’ve used Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulater for many years on many items, mostly on the frame of my “over the road” 2007 Kenworth. Very satisfied & continue to buy & recommend it, especially after seeing other eighteen wheelers the same age or newer with so much more damage from road chemicals. It’s not a total cure by any means, washing especially after a road run, & quickly painting over a bare area go a long ways.

 

[3Ts]

I'm a believer in Ospho rust converter. It's essentially phosphoric acid that converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. The rust as you know flakes off and does not adhere to the underlying metal. Iron phosphate on the other hand does cling to the underlying metal to slow down corrosion and forms a really good primer for paint.

It works best with a light surface coat of rust so it has something to convert. It does not work all that well on heavy rust.

 

[spitter]

Ospho is my go-to for surface rust also. To many projects to list no failures.

 

[Hay Dude]

This guy just hired some guys to come out and steam clean it. He may have done a little sanding but he wasn't clear he just mentioned sanding.

Nice job! My Massey 7495 needs painted. Give me your address. Where do I send the check?

 

[DJ54]

I have to agree with the knotted cup and/or straight knotted brush then going over it with Ospho. I've done more than several pieces of older equipment, tractor rims etc. Go over it good with the brush then brush on the Ospho. Kills remaining rust left in pits the brush can't quite get to. Put on a decent primer then topcoat. Oldest job has only been 5 years or so but no rust bleeding back through so far. It goes on like water so it goes a long way.

 

[mikester]

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This would be a family heirloom and would be worth preserving.

LOL. You shouldn't sandblast OR paint the family heirloom, that will decrease it's value!

 

[MF243RedTop]

I'm a believer in Ospho rust converter. It's essentially phosphoric acid that converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. The rust as you know flakes off and does not adhere to the underlying metal. Iron phosphate on the other hand does cling to the underlying metal to slow down corrosion and forms a really good primer for paint.

It works best with a light surface coat of rust so it has something to convert. It does not work all that well on heavy rust.

With pitted rust keeping working the Ospho in with a hand wire brush and wipe away excess rust that's brought up to the surface... repeat, repeat, repeat.. time consuming but it works..

Or go buy a sandblaster...