I assume that is a pretty thick member. If you can get to the opposite side it would be good to vee both sides rather than one side. If the cracks go all the way through; can you block the two pieces so they wll not move? If not you may have to put on a temporary splice to hold it in place. Make sure you cut out all cracked/flawed material. If you don't, you may build the same flaw into your new work. Be sure to grind out all bad materials. If it is say 1" thick material grindig the vees(s) can be tedious. I would burn out with a scarfing tip on the O/A cutting head and then grind it bright. On the vees(s) leave as much thickness in the bottom as the diameter of the rod. I would use 6010 for the first pass or 2 passes if it is over 1/2" base material. and finish up with the 7018. 6010 is easier to control in the bottom of the groove and get unflawed full penetration. As shieldarc said; keep a short arc for good puddle control. It never fails that if you have a minor flaw in the root pass it will carry through on every subsequent pass. That is why pipe welders always are meticulous on the root pass (always use 6010 unless the approved procedures different) and even grind it well before starting the next pass. A leak in a 24" pipeline can get you sent back to the hall.
Ron (old UA pipefitter)
