Rebuilding a retaining wall

   / Rebuilding a retaining wall #21  
I always liked terraced walls with the lowest terrace about the right heigth to sit on. The terraces also double as a place to plant flowers and small shrubs.
 
   / Rebuilding a retaining wall #22  
I learned about tie backs at an early age. My dad told me to go get an old truck axle by the barn and dig a hole in the upper yard to match the outline of the axle and to put the axle in the hole. I thought he was crazy but the way I grew up I did not have any choice but to comply. Later I learned that he (I) was replacing the retaining wall between the upper and lower lawn and that axle was the tie back.

That's a good Improvisation...I first encountered tiebacks as a young field engineer overseeing seawall projects...They didn't even coat or sleeve the rebar back then...!
 
   / Rebuilding a retaining wall #23  
I have used those stacking blocks. The base course I put on compacted modified, with a 1/2 sand layer to level. The course was even or only 2'' taller then the ground. Then you start stacking. I filled behind with 2b gravel until I got to the last block and then put down some weed cloth soil and grass. I also put caps on it and used construction adhesive to attach them.
 
   / Rebuilding a retaining wall #24  
I build stone walls as a hobby. I looked at a home to buy in Vermont with a fieldstone basement foundation wall that had begun to bow inwards like you describe. It was 9 feet tall by 33 ft long.

Though I didn't buy the place, I watched with interest how the new owners had it repaired. I was allowed to hang out with the contractors and watch.

This is similar to the system they used.


Jesse Trebil Foundation Systems - Fixing Bowed Walls and Foundation Repair - YouTube

This is in effect a tieback after the fact.

As nice as that wall seems to be, I'd hate to see it torn out.
 
   / Rebuilding a retaining wall #25  
I have built, and also repaired a number of walls.

- Most folks do not make a suitable base. All the block companies have great websites with details on how to install the base. In some cases, the base might require a major digout. For a 3' wall you'll have 6-8" of compacted base and a whole block at or slightly below grade to support the wall properly. It is a lot of work, and appears to be a waste of the first course of block, but it is important to the integrity of the wall. That is why so many walls fail; the foundation is not done properly.

- Lack of drainage. Water will push a wall out. The wall must have drainage. Again, it is a lot of work; a lot of folks skimp on this and the result is failed walls.

- Lack of rock around drainage. For most walls, the first foot(1') behind the wall should be drainage rock. A lot of people put dirt right up to the wall. And it pushes against the wall...

There are lots of directions on proper installation.

Here is an example. Country Manor makes a really nice looking wall. Not, the base trench is 12" deep, with 6" of compacted base material. Then the first course of block is added. That top of the first course is barely at grade level. That is a lot of expensive block that you will never see... But it is crucial to the foundation of the wall.

http://keystonewalls.com/application/files/9415/0794/2438/CountryManor5pc-PSS2017.pdf

http://www.yorkbuilding.com/wp-content/uploads/Keystone-Construction-Manual.pdf
 

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