rear wheel for brush hog

[defed]

the round "axle" was salvaged from an old hay crimper. i need to make some stops to keep it from sliding side to side. i left it long in case i ever want to put dual swivels instead of the one in the center.

when i get everything set in position, i will probably add gussets to the support arm to stiffen it to side to side movement.

 

[FlaDon]

Having the trailing wheel change the angle is common on a 3-pt hitch mower. They all swivel to the front and raise the rear of the deck in the process. It actually helps keep the rear from digging in when backing.

 

[defed]

but by how much? the ones i looked at were closer to vertical on the swivel spindle (like the pic i added in post #13). mine will raise 3" or so, which seems like alot. i don't like the fact that the wheel bracket is nearly vertical in the reverse position either.

 

[FlaDon]

but by how much? the ones i looked at were closer to vertical on the swivel spindle (like the pic i added in post #13). mine will raise 3" or so, which seems like alot. i don't like the fact that the wheel bracket is nearly vertical in the reverse position either.

That varies by make. They angle them so the wheel stays clear of the supports. Otherwise, the shaft would have to be longer or the forks longer to keep the wheel clear. Both of which would make the tailwheel assembly weaker. It basically is a tradeoff with the advantage of the rear of the deck not digging in in reverse. You could always build a 4-link setup but that would add to the cost.

 

[defed]

finished the wheel. basically the same as the previous pictures, but changed the angle of the swivel to be closer to vertical when in cutting position, and added some angle iron gussets from the 2x3 arm to the 3" round axle.

made up a quick flex link, but i think i have to modify it. the current top link bracket hole is already in line w/ the lower lift pins. i think the flex link should be in line w/ the pins, so now it sticks out too far. still seems to work, but the geometry is off.

 

[Chilly807]

made up a quick flex link, but i think i have to modify it. the current top link bracket hole is already in line w/ the lower lift pins. i think the flex link should be in line w/ the pins, so now it sticks out too far. still seems to work, but the geometry is off.

A piece of chain works well for a flex link, allows the mower to float over high spots but still lifts it too. With a mower, the only load is tension, you don't want/need compression strength.

Chilly

 

[soulasphil]

I wish I were as good as you all are to add wheels like that! But I'm missing the whole point of having wheels at the back of a bush hog. I've been using my 5 foot bush hog for over 15 years without back wheels and still don't need them.
The implement isn't so heavy that the tractor cannot hold it above the ground most of the time. By turning the pins on the lift arms 90 ° you allow the implement to lift when the reinforced sides touch the dirt, so that it doesn't make a rut. The chains supporting the rear give flexibility. This should be much more efficient than wheels getting cought in holes or roots. What am I missing ?

 

[defed]

i had been using it for a couple of years w/o a rear wheel also. it DID work. tractor has no trouble holding the mower up. but w/o a wheel, it doesn't follow the contour of the ground properly. if the rear tractor wheels fall into a rut, the mower bottoms out on its side rails. if the rear tractor wheels go up on a mound, the rear of the mower raises way up as well.

the rear wheel and floating 3pt link allow the mower to maintain a more consistent cut height. i usually run the front (with the lift arms) lower to the ground than the rear. the rear height is adjusted w/ the wheel.

 

[sal64]

[/ATTACH]

 

[defed]

how do those fixed front wheels work w/ the 3 point? i figured they would have to swivel if it wasn't a tow behind. at one time, i was going to add more wheels and a floating hitch like my 3pt finish mower, but i never did.

 

[soulasphil]

i usually run the front (with the lift arms) lower to the ground than the rear. the rear height is adjusted w/ the wheel.

From what I can see on the pictures posted here, you seem to use rigid rods to support the back of the mower and not chains as we do here. We use the length of the chains to adjust rear hight and also to offset the implement. I can quite see how a rigid support of the rear would be an issue at the bottom of a slope. Hence the necessity to float the 3 pt and support the rear with wheels. I still don't understand the point of front wheels though.

 

[defed]

how do you run the cutter w/ chains? do you always ride it setting on the side rails, and then slack in the chains? i never run mine w/ the sides touching the ground...so w/ rigid supports and no wheel, it was never very smooth.

as far as front wheels...my finish mower rides on 4 wheels, floating 3pt, and a chain to the rear for lifting. it rides very well, and at one time, wanted to add the same stuff to the brush hog. i wouldn't add fixed front wheels though, as this seems like a bad idea on a 3pt cutter.

 

[sal64]

there only antiscalping weels they are set 3 inches under deck .

 

[defed]

there only antiscalping weels they are set 3 inches under deck .

ah, i see. not a bad idea. even w/ the flex link, i still bottomed out the front with sharp grade changes.

 

[soulasphil]

how do you run the cutter w/ chains? do you always ride it setting on the side rails, and then slack in the chains?

Nothing of the kind. The length of the chains is adjusted to keep the deck horizontal and a few inches above the ground as you can see in the pictures. It is important to keep it in the air (and use front weights) to be able to steer the tractor easily. The chains carry the weight of the back of the cutter, so no slack. The side rails only touch the ground when a tractor wheel is in a hole or when the slope changes abruptly, and then the chains allow the rear to come up as much as is needed. The cleverly designed pin heads on the Deere give some flexibility to the front, which was not the case on my Massey 35. Nothing like a finishing mower but the results are quite good.

 

[defed]

Nothing of the kind. The length of the chains is adjusted to keep the deck horizontal and a few inches above the ground as you can see in the pictures. It is important to keep it in the air (and use front weights) to be able to steer the tractor easily. The chains carry the weight of the back of the cutter, so no slack. The side rails only touch the ground when a tractor wheel is in a hole or when the slope changes abruptly, and then the chains allow the rear to come up as much as is needed. The cleverly designed pin heads on the Deere give some flexibility to the front, which was not the case on my Massey 35. Nothing like a finishing mower but the results are quite good.

looks pretty good for a 'rough cut' mower!

 

[Wayne801]

I have two brush hogs with single crazy wheel behind. They are very strong and I have never had any problem with them.

 

[maps]

Looks like you are well on your way to rehabing your cutter. Congrats. Just wanted to share that while the single wheel config is very stout and pretty forgiving, I still managed to bend one up pretty well on a JD MX6. Backing into trees, stumps, and rocks didn't hurt much but the unseen groundhog hole was another story...just looked like a thick bunch of grass from the tractor seat! Anyway, the wheel dropped into the hole and lodged 90 degrees from normal travel. Before I could jump on the clutch the pickle-fork holding the tail wheel took a pretty good lateral shot. I still used the cutter the rest of the season with the wheel following a good 15 degrees off verticle. Unfortunately, I didn't have adequate shop tools to attempt to straighten the fork so I ended up buying a new one. Now if I can just avoid the next groundhog hole...