Rear Remotes + 3rd Function Option

[SNKETR]

Looking for some confirmation.

I’m new to tractor hydraulics so i’ve been spending my time learning everything I can to make the right decision.
I have a 4720H. I’m looking to add a 3rd function for a grapple. I’d also like to run rear remotes for top/tilt, but i’m also thinking about getting an offset flail mower which would require an additional two valves.
I think I have 4 options to accomplish this. They’re listed in order of cost.

1. Summit Hydraulic 4 spool kit. I’d run one spool to the front for the grapple, and could get by with disconnecting the tilt if/when i want to run an offset flail mower.
2. Branson rear manual remote, Summit Hydraulics 3 spool kit running one to the front for the grapple. This would allocate everything with its own valve. This is assuming i can run the Branson rear manual remotes and the Summit electric 3 spool kit in series. Is there any reason that wouldn’t work?
3. Summit hydraulics 4 spool kit and Summit/WR Long 3rd function kit. This would allocate everything with its own valve.
4. Branson rear manual remote, Summit/WR Long 3rd function, and Summit 2 spool kit. accomplishes the same thing as option 2 just seems more complicated and unnecessary.

Option 1 would be cheapest at probably 60% the cost of the next cheapest option. Options 2 or 3 seems like the most efficient and functional route. I’d appreciate any input, recommendations, and/or corrections from those of y’all with more experience.

I've also heard the electronic spool valves are a little touchy and might require flow control.

 

[Torvy]

Another option...

Unless you think you will really need the top and tilt while using your flail, just need 2 sets. Swapping is easy and cheap.

I have a ditch mower flail and don't see what I would use top and tilt for with it. Already tilts -50 to +90 degrees.

 

[SNKETR]

I don't see myself using top/tilt with a flail mower. But i'd assume I still need to raise/lower the 3pt? That would require swapping out the top link for a manual one? I don't have a flail mower so please correct me if my thinking is wrong.

 

[Torvy]

The arms do the lifting. I'm not sure, but I think a hydraulic top link would work fine without the hydraulics attached (as long as it is set to the right length first). I don't have hyd.TnT yet.

Worst case, you already should have the original top link, just leave the one end attached to your flail and hook it up on the tractor end when swapping.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When you disconnect a hydraulic cylinder at the quick couplers, that cylinder is locked in place.

You just need to be sure that the hoses are tied up and out of the way.

Not only do the electric valves typically need some flow control, but these electric valves are known to have internal leakage and do not hold cylinders in place very well.

They are not the ideal set of controls for top & tilt cylinders.

Good luck with your research and final decision.

 

[SNKETR]

When you disconnect a hydraulic cylinder at the quick couplers, that cylinder is locked in place.

Thanks Brian. I didn't know that. Right now i'm leaning towards Option 2, and just starting with the Branson factory kit. Grading my community 1 mile long private driveway is the most frequent use for the tractor right now.

 

[WinterDeere]

That's what I do. I have only 3 channels on my machine, so when I need the 3rd to angle my loader-mounted snow plow left/right, I just unplug my hydraulic top link. I set it where I want it before unplugging, and then it holds just fine for at least the several days I might have the snowplow mounted. My hoses are set up such that I can just wrap the unused hose ends around the top link cylinder and tuck then under the opposite cylinder port, YMMV. The hoses that route the 3rd function (rear) up to the loader are Deere OEM, and just sit under my seat when not in use.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian. I didn't know that. Right now i'm leaning towards Option 2, and just starting with the Branson factory kit. Grading my community 1 mile long private driveway is the most frequent use for the tractor right now.

Maybe get both of the factory rear remotes and then go with some diverters if you decide that you need more sets of couplers.
I have one tractor with one factory rear remote with a triple diverter and my larger tractor has 3 factory rear remotes with a double diverter.

 

[LouNY]

One thing to think about many offset flail mowers will work better with a float position on at least one valve. Isee that Summit offers a float spool option on their monoblock valve bodies. I'd be tempted to go with a 4 port valve with at least one having the float spool and detent

 

[WinterDeere]

Thought the tractor was already owned? If configuring to buy, always get more remotes than you need. Buyer’s remorse over too few remotes is common here.

 

[dstig1]

A diverter works great for 3rd function. Nothing is ever cheap when it comes to hydraulics, so get used to that, but if you pick your battles you can make decent use of your spending. The factory rear remotes will generally be very well-integrated and should be the "easy button" for those.

 

[tulenutn2o]

I wish I had another set of rear remotes. I have 2 sets and hate having to ditch/disconnect hydraulic top link When I use the offset ditch flail. Would like to have tilt. 4 rear remotes would be perfect.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I wish I had another set of rear remotes. I have 2 sets and hate having to ditch/disconnect hydraulic top link When I use the offset ditch flail. Would like to have tilt. 4 rear remotes would be perfect.

So add a double diverter. This takes care of the additional sets of couplers that you need.
A triple diverter is pictured on the tractor.
Controls for the diverters would be on the factory rear remote lever.
You would be able to control 3 separate functions without ever taking your hand from the control lever.

 

[ericm979]

The factory Branson rear remotes are decent, and a decent price. I use mine to run my top and tilt. Mine do not have float or detent, which is fine for my use with top and tilt. They hold position well so I don't think they leak as much as some valves.

I have a 3rd rear remote added by the dealer that is mounted on the fender. With the handle mounted pointing forwards it's pretty close to the joystick. I was going to operate a side shift flail with it but never got around to buying one. Instead I bought a grapple. I ran hoses from the 3rd remote to bulkhead fittings on the loader and plug the grapple into those. A joystick operated diverter or 3rd function buttons would be better. I just haven't gotten around to doing it.

I think for your situation I'd start with the Branson remotes and run the top and tilt off them. I would get a summit 3rd function kit for the grapple. It's a decent price for the parts and includes a high quality joystick knob with buttons.

I don't like switching hydraulic hoses all the time when I switch implements, which I do a lot, so I'd spend the extra $$ for a fender mounted two valve unit to operate the flail. You might be able to get a kit from my dealer, Dave's Tractor in Red Bluff CA. Or make one. With dedicated valves you can get some with float if the flail needs that.

You can chain all the valves in series. The lever operated valves will need power beyond ports and the solenoid valves for the 3rd function, don't need power beyond.

 

[SNKETR]

I ordered and have received my Branson rear remotes and a hydraulic top link. Should be installing them this week if i can get a break in the weather. Still gotta order the hydraulic side link, but i'll do that as soon as i'm done installing what i current have. I'll add some Summit or WR Long spools in the future when it's time, but for now having top/tilt will be awesome for taking care of my road.

 

[Rvrrat14]

I”m waiting on my WR Long kits for TnT now…….Reading over this I have a question….

Yanmar 347 with factory front and added additional factory rear hydraulics. If I decide not to use TnT for an implement and remove it, can I not bleed the cylinders down from the quick connect so pressure is not on them. My main function for TnT is box blade. Thanks.

 

[LouNY]

"Bleeding" a cylinder through the quick connects when disconnected will be a dirty mess. If the cylinders are extended to the maximum length, then the tractor shut down and then the valves actuated a few times there should be no differential pressure in the lines. Your cylinders will be sitting on the mechanical stops builtin to the cylinders

 

[Rvrrat14]

@LouNY, thanks!

 

[WinterDeere]

... and to add to what LouNY was saying, this might mean turning your key back to Run position after shutting down, to actuate any solenoid valves. I have to do this with my rear and loader 3rd function valves.

 

[Rvrrat14]

@winterdeere……..I don’t think mine does that, but I will check. My third function is electric diverter/switch. Thanks!