Thomas78
New member
My Rear Lift Arm (Rightside) keeps disconnecting from the Rockshaft??? On my JD3032e
Rear Lift arm problem
- Thread starter Thomas78
- Start date
- Views: 6218
Leejohn
Elite Member
I would look at the lift side and see what is holding it on.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,629
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Lift arm is held to the shaft with a bolt and washer. Is it missing?
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,629
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
I'm now not understanding what you describe, so at a loss as to what you did, or did not do.
Someone else may follow your explanation.. and give you some help.
Someone else may follow your explanation.. and give you some help.
Leejohn
Elite Member
When you pulled the shaft out the arm it goes thru dropped down. You might have to pull the rock shaft off to put it back together. You can try fishing it up into place with a small rod and hold it up then try getting the shaft started.
Kurtiz
New member
My left rear lift arm pin, came out, detatching the arm from the tractor. Not knowing this, when I lifted my bush hog, the arm came forward, hitting the drain plug underneath the tractor, knocking out the plug, along with a chunk of cast iron housing. If I can't get it welded back, on, it looks like the entire housing will have toi be replaced, costing BIG bucks. This isn't the first time that pin had come loose. The right side had never come loose, and I don't see any to keep it from coming loose...
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,629
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
:welcome: to TBN
I replace the lynch pins with bolts and lock nuts. Too easy for a stick to poke them just right and cause the problem you have.
Is this the Kubota? (question only because this is in the Deere forum, and not that it changes anything).
Sorry to hear of the problem..
I replace the lynch pins with bolts and lock nuts. Too easy for a stick to poke them just right and cause the problem you have.
Is this the Kubota? (question only because this is in the Deere forum, and not that it changes anything).
Sorry to hear of the problem..
Spanner
Veteran Member
I take it he is referring to the K-L4600 in his 'Profile'... yes.
The lynch-pins can be dislodged by brush or vegetation or terrain when using the tractor. You need to keep checking them or replace with bolts/locking nuts as 'beenthere' suggests.
As to your current problem - It is virtually impossible to weld the broken cast steel upside down and with oil contamination of the metal grain structure. So you would have to dismantle the rear-end and clean the housing thoroughly and even then few welders will guarantee a successful 'leak-free' weld when oil has been in the broken casting.
You could have a 'Patch Plate' made which would be bolted over the damaged area. Bolt holes around the perimeter and drilled/threaded into the casing. Like an inspection cover plate if you can visualise what I mean?
A drain hole could be incorporated into the patch-plate with a suitable bung. RTV silicone sealant could be used as a 'gasket'.
This MacGuyver repair would save you dismantling the rear-end of your tractor as it could be accomplished in-situ.
Good luck. :horseshoe:
The lynch-pins can be dislodged by brush or vegetation or terrain when using the tractor. You need to keep checking them or replace with bolts/locking nuts as 'beenthere' suggests.
As to your current problem - It is virtually impossible to weld the broken cast steel upside down and with oil contamination of the metal grain structure. So you would have to dismantle the rear-end and clean the housing thoroughly and even then few welders will guarantee a successful 'leak-free' weld when oil has been in the broken casting.
You could have a 'Patch Plate' made which would be bolted over the damaged area. Bolt holes around the perimeter and drilled/threaded into the casing. Like an inspection cover plate if you can visualise what I mean?
A drain hole could be incorporated into the patch-plate with a suitable bung. RTV silicone sealant could be used as a 'gasket'.
This MacGuyver repair would save you dismantling the rear-end of your tractor as it could be accomplished in-situ.
Good luck. :horseshoe:
Here are some similar links:
