Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

[bryn67]

I have just purchased a new hydraulic top link and find when I use my box blade the ram moves in and out as it’s grading, even in soft soil. I own a Kioti DS 4510 . Thanks any help appreciated.

 

[ptsg]

You may be pushing the lever too far, causing the remote to go into float, which would make the ram move freely.

 

[bryn67]

You may be pushing the lever too far, causing the remote to go into float, which would make the ram move freely.

The lever has three positions.
Middle for the 3 point hitch and then up or down for the rear remote so the lever is always in the middle after setting the top link.

 

[ovrszd]

This is a common complaint. Both of my tractors do it. If I lengthen/shorten the top link an inch or two it will then hold it's position. Then later when I use it I have that problem again until I cycle it once.

I've read some very lengthy discussions about this here. The only plausible answer I've heard is this. If the return to tank line from your valve enters the tank above the fluid level, and with a load on the cylinder you open the valve to extend, it will actually extend faster than the valve flow can keep up with. This causes a vacuum and can suck air thru the return to tank line.

I'm not saying that's the answer. I'm just saying it's the only answer I've gotten that I couldn't refute.

Most will say your cylinder is bad. Or your valve is bad. I don't believe that both of my tractors have bad valves. I don't believe both of my top link cylinders are bad.

Anxious to hear other's opinions about this common problem although your thread title may not draw the right attention.

 

[ptsg]

I've read some very lengthy discussions about this here. The only plausible answer I've heard is this. If the return to tank line from your valve enters the tank above the fluid level, and with a load on the cylinder you open the valve to extend, it will actually extend faster than the valve flow can keep up with. This causes a vacuum and can suck air thru the return to tank line.

I do have this issue on my homemade backhoe. Specially when moving the boom down a bit to fast or even the stick. The return on the tank is way above the fluid, and it will suck air. Then I have to wait till the cylinder fills up again when moving back up.

Not sure if this the OP's issue either.

 

[/pine]

Add a double pilot check valve...

 

[ovrszd]

I do have this issue on my homemade backhoe. Specially when moving the boom down a bit to fast or even the stick. The return on the tank is way above the fluid, and it will suck air. Then I have to wait till the cylinder fills up again when moving back up.

Not sure if this the OP's issue either.

Yeah, me either. After I posted that I reread his first post and realized I didn't have enough information to know.

 

[ovrszd]

Add a double pilot check valve...

Yep, just realize you lose "float".

 

[bryn67]

This is a common complaint. Both of my tractors do it. If I lengthen/shorten the top link an inch or two it will then hold it's position. Then later when I use it I have that problem again until I cycle it once.

I've read some very lengthy discussions about this here. The only plausible answer I've heard is this. If the return to tank line from your valve enters the tank above the fluid level, and with a load on the cylinder you open the valve to extend, it will actually extend faster than the valve flow can keep up with. This causes a vacuum and can suck air thru the return to tank line.

I'm not saying that's the answer. I'm just saying it's the only answer I've gotten that I couldn't refute.

Most will say your cylinder is bad. Or your valve is bad. I don't believe that both of my tractors have bad valves. I don't believe both of my top link cylinders are bad.

Anxious to hear other's opinions about this common problem although your thread title may not draw the right attention.

I only used mine for a short time before reverting back to the screw type top link so will top up my hydraulic level a bit even though it shows well up on the dip stick and see if it makes any difference.

 

[ovrszd]

I only used mine for a short time before reverting back to the screw type top link so will top up my hydraulic level a bit even though it shows well up on the dip stick and see if it makes any difference.

Low fluid level isn't an issue. In what I described the return to tank fitting enters the reservoir above the fluid level. Nothing that can done about that.

But we're not sure that is your problem yet.

The DPCV will help with this problem if you can be without float?

 

[Rustyiron]

Is all the air purged out of your new t/l cylinder?

 

[bryn67]

Low fluid level isn't an issue. In what I described the return to tank fitting enters the reservoir above the fluid level. Nothing that can done about that.

But we're not sure that is your problem yet.

The DPCV will help with this problem if you can be without float?

In your previous post you said after you cycled it the fault was gone until you used the ram again ( reset ) which does indicate air getting in but that doesn’t seem to be my issue. Even though I did cycle it a few times it has never worked at all correctly but will have another go to make sure but it’s a pain going 700m away just to give it a trial, maybe try hanging on it but 58 kg might not be enough.

 

[/pine]

If you don't need to make adjustments on the fly (sort of defeats the purpose) you can always just disconnect the hoses...it will lock the cylinder...

 

[bryn67]

If you don't need to make adjustments on the fly (sort of defeats the purpose) you can always just disconnect the hoses...it will lock the cylinder...

I suppose I could try that to test the cylinder.

 

[ovrszd]

If the cylinder has air in it uncoupling the hoses will have no impact.

 

[/pine]

If the cylinder has air in it uncoupling the hoses will have no impact.

Sure it will...the air can't go anywhere the same as the oil...enough force will compress any air which will push back when said force is lessened...If the cylinder has been fully cycled I doubt there is any air anyway...

 

[bryn67]

Sure it will...the air can't go anywhere the same as the oil...enough force will compress any air which will push back when said force is lessened...If the cylinder has been fully cycled I doubt there is any air anyway...

Further tests. I have cycled the cylinder many times. It does work fine when cycled. I have then left the ram in the fully extended position, turned off the engine and disconnected the two hoses. Then allow the 3 point hitch to lower the implement ( stick rake ) . The ram on the top link goes back in with the weight of the rake. This indicates to me that it’s not on the tractor side.
So is it still an air lock or hydraulic leaking in the cylinder. Thanks to all.

 

[bryn67]

Is all the air purged out of your new t/l cylinder?

Is there a correct way of doing this. In the instructions I received with the cylinder it says not normally required to do anything other than cycling it a few times, do you know of another method. Thanks

 

[pmsmechanic]

I made my own top link cylinder. The first time I hooked up the hydraulic lines I cycled the cylinder with the ports up. That way I was sure that here was no air left inside the cylinder. Then I attached the hydraulic cylinder to the top links. Mine doesn't move as far as I know, once the lever is in the neutral position.

 

[bryn67]

I made my own top link cylinder. The first time I hooked up the hydraulic lines I cycled the cylinder with the ports up. That way I was sure that here was no air left inside the cylinder. Then I attached the hydraulic cylinder to the top links. Mine doesn't move as far as I know, once the lever is in the neutral position.

Sounds just the same as mine except mine goes in and out as it goes over the bumps.