Rear Blade Rear blade for snow

[s219]

As a start for snow removal, I'd say to adjust the top link so that the frame of the blade is horizontal when the blade is on the ground. That should put the blade in a vertical stance, and you'll be operating at the design point of the blade curvature (for whatever reason they spec'd that shape). That has worked well for me so far. From there, shorten top link to be less agressive, lengthen it to be more agressive.

 

[GManBart]

If you are grading gravel or topsoil and want to move it and spread it at the same time, shortening the top link will angle the cutting edge back and down and do a much better job. Just the opposite of what works well for cutting into hard packed snow or dirt. The first drags the dirt/snow and spreads it out into shallow dips etc, the second cuts into and basically shoves the dirt/snow forward more.

Not arguing, just clarifying in case someone gets confused

Saying the cutting edge is angled back or forward can be a matter of perspective. The actual cutting edge doesn't really move...the top of the cutting edge, and top of the blade move back, or forward. So, is the cutting edge moving back, or the top of the blade moving forward....one of those silly perspective things.

If that's still hard to follow, the easy version is: Shortening the top link moves the top of the blade closer to the tractor and decreases the angle between the blade, and ground....less aggressive cut. The reverse is also true. This also works for box blades.

 

[diesel lover]

Not arguing, just clarifying in case someone gets confused Saying the cutting edge is angled back or forward can be a matter of perspective. The actual cutting edge doesn't really move...the top of the cutting edge, and top of the blade move back, or forward. So, is the cutting edge moving back, or the top of the blade moving forward....one of those silly perspective things. If that's still hard to follow, the easy version is: Shortening the top link moves the top of the blade closer to the tractor and decreases the angle between the blade, and ground....less aggressive cut. The reverse is also true. This also works for box blades.

thanks for the information to the both of you! One of our blades is a heavy duty type and one is sloppy and worn out with a dull cutting edge

 

[RG1]

As a start for snow removal, I'd say to adjust the top link so that the frame of the blade is horizontal when the blade is on the ground. That should put the blade in a vertical stance, and you'll be operating at the design point of the blade curvature (for whatever reason they spec'd that shape). That has worked well for me so far. From there, shorten top link to be less agressive, lengthen it to be more agressive.

Well said. This is exactly how I set a new rear blade up to start, then play with it from there as needed.

 

[RG1]

Not arguing, just clarifying in case someone gets confused

Saying the cutting edge is angled back or forward can be a matter of perspective. The actual cutting edge doesn't really move...the top of the cutting edge, and top of the blade move back, or forward. So, is the cutting edge moving back, or the top of the blade moving forward....one of those silly perspective things.

If that's still hard to follow, the easy version is: Shortening the top link moves the top of the blade closer to the tractor and decreases the angle between the blade, and ground....less aggressive cut. The reverse is also true. This also works for box blades.

True, true. I maybe should have been more clear, but I figured most people that have never used a rear blade would quickly see what I mean by playing with the top link.

Technically though, the cutting edge does move. The blade mounting point(s) is/are fixed on the two lower link pins through the draft arms, so the top and bottom of the blade move in relationship to that mounting point when you shorten or lengthen the top link. Lengthening the top link angles the cutting edge of the blade forward from the fixed mounting point, while shortening the top link moves the cutting edge backwards/rearwards from the mounting point. This is also what s219 posted.

 

[Chilly807]

I welded some pipe to the back edge of my moldboard and made some skid feet to adjust the cutting height of the blade. Adding or removing washers raises or lowers the edge.




Sean

 

[thcri]

Well lengthened my upper link and then plowed. It was worthless for getting down to my concrete. It left about a 1/2" of snow on the driveway. It didn't jump up. This was lengthening it about an inch or so. I shortened it back up and went back across where I went and it cleaned it right down to the concrete. The next pass next to my test spot I cleaned right down to the driveway. I will keep it as short as I can.

 

[Chilly807]

I've set my top link so the main frame of the blade is level and have never moved it.

Sean

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

I have an old beat up 72" woods blade that works great on the back of my L275. It definitely works better pulling than pushing.

 

[thcri]

Hey Kevin, I tried the stall mat edge a few years ago. It works great ... Frank Look here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/138608-rear-blade-rubber-edge.html

This will still clean right down to the concrete even after the snow has been driven over multiple times? It just doesn't seem to me it would.