Really stupid questions regarding pop rivets.

[sixdogs]

I am embarrassed to even ask but I know nothing about pop rivets. Since I always viewed them with suspicion as a poor solution, I steered totally clear of them and now know nothing about them and need to learn.

When I went to the hardware store recently to get some brass rivets to put nameplates on dog collars, I could not find any. Like a bigger dope, I asked and the guy said everyone just uses pop rivets. Anyway, do pop rivet tools come on different qualities? Can I get a good one at Home Depot or Lowe's. Does more expensive mean a better tool?

Do pop rivets just come in aluminum or maybe brass or stainless steel as well? What is a common size that is used? Do you just buy a rivet longer than you need and the tool snaps it off at the right place or do you need to be more accurate in selection of length? Once riveted, are they hard to get back apart?

What else do I need to know or is it pretty much impossible to screw up this simple task?

 

[EarPlug]

Pop Rivets are a very effective fastener when used properly. You must have the proper size hole and the proper length rivet for the size of material you are fastening. Tools range from simple hand tools (cheap and quality) to air and electric powered.

Here is a bunch of reading material for you Document Library | Stanley Engineered Fastening

 

[3930dave]

I like the swivel head style tool. It comes with a few different tips, for different diameter pop rivets. Pretty well any tool will work for what you want to do right away, I like this style for general home/shop use.

Stanley Swivel-Head Manual Riveter-MR77C at The Home Depot

The rivet package will spec the thickness range it can cover. You can use backing washers if you want extra insurance about the rivet pulling out, or just need to add thickness for the rivet to work.

I've bought steel rivets at times. Stainless might take a trip to a specialty industrial supplier to find - should be available since they are likely used in food handling equipment.

For what they are, aluminum rivets are pretty durable. I like them for certain repairs.

For brass, there is this style too:

Brass Rivets - Lee Valley Tools

Haven't used these brass ones myself. They talk about shortening the rivet, so it may be an internal interference fit. If a knife builder happens along, they'll know, or just contact Lee Valley - they are usually pretty good at handling questions.

Rgds, D.

 

[k0ua]

I am embarrassed to even ask but I know nothing about pop rivets. Since I always viewed them with suspicion as a poor solution, I steered totally clear of them and now know nothing about them and need to learn.

When I went to the hardware store recently to get some brass rivets to put nameplates on dog collars, I could not find any. Like a bigger dope, I asked and the guy said everyone just uses pop rivets. Anyway, do pop rivet tools come on different qualities? Yes Can I get a good one at Home Depot or Lowe's. probably. Does more expensive mean a better tool? Generaly yes, get one with multiple size screw in dies to fit different sizes of pop rivets.

Do pop rivets just come in aluminum or maybe brass or stainless steel as well? I have not seen any brass ones, but that doesn't mean someone doesn't make them, Aluminum is the most common materiel but SS is also available. What is a common size that is used? Do you just buy a rivet longer than you need and the tool snaps it off at the right place or do you need to be more accurate in selection of length? No, you need to size the body of the rivet to the thickness of the two or more pieces of material you are fasteniing together.. Imagine what the rivet will look like when the rivet gun pulls the head of the rivet up. there is some slop or fudge factor, but you still need to consider the length of the rivet for the job you are doing. You normally have a selection of rivets of different length and sizes. Once riveted, are they hard to get back apart? Yes, you have to drill them out, and that can be difficult as they often want to rotate in the hole when the drill bit catches them.. Consider them permant fasteners, just difficult to remove, by drilling or grinding the heads off with an angle grinder.. Remember you often cannot get at the "blind" side of the fastener, which is the reason for using pop rivets in the first place as you can fasten something with a "blind" side you cannot get to to put a conventional bolt/nut into.
What else do I need to know or is it pretty much impossible to screw up this simple task? You will have a learning curve if you have never done it. before.

see responses in red above

 

[wolftree]

sixdogs,

You need to ask for Copper Rivets and Burrs to find the rivets were hunting for to attach dog license, name plates etc.

 

[GaryM]

Everybody should have a Pop Rivet tool. As stated they are very good in the proper place. You can also get rivets that are internally threaded and work with a threaded mandrel. They are used to put threads into sheet metal so you can use machine screws. These aren't used with the same tool as the pop rivets though.

 

[Farmerjonathan]

Wolftree nailed it. Pop rivets pull the back of the rivet up and make a knob on the inside. Would rub a dog raw on the inside of his collar. What you need are copper rivets and burrs (think copper washer). On a nylon collar use a heated nail to make your holes (won't fray and allow the rivet to pull through easily) the push the rivet through the name tag, through the hole in the collar turn upside down and put head of rivet on an anvil or top of vise, put on the washer/burr and I hold the burr down with a pair of needle nosed pliers so I then hit the end of the rivet with a ball peen hammer and then peen it down around the burr and making sure there aren't any sharp spots. Done, permanent. If you get a rivet that is to long, can cut them with a good pair of sidecuts.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I think that Chicago Screws may be a better solution for the OP. Use the CS's for horse tack all the time. See attached.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/chicago-screws-1290-051.aspx

 

[s219]

I've use pop rivets in brass, copper, aluminum, and steel with great luck over the years. Have owned hand tools and an air tool when I did a lot of work riveting metal drywall studs. Also have a box of stainless rivets for ski boot repair, however they are much harder to pop so you need a good quality tool with hardened jaws.

For some uses, and perhaps dog collars, putting the flat head on the inside might work better, as long as you don't mind looking at the mushroomed stem on the outside. That was often the case with ski boot repairs. Sometimes the stem can be hammered flat or ground down if you're careful.

 

[k0ua]

Blind Pop Rivets, Tubular rivets, Copper rivets and Burrs and Chicago screws all require different techniques.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOlRpig025s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJBL8G8jdx8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8Y1k5HKX0o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fu0TG9_W0I

 

[lostcreekranch]

Blind Pop Rivets, Tubular rivets, Copper rivets and Burrs and Chicago screws all require different techniques. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOlRpig025s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJBL8G8jdx8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8Y1k5HKX0o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fu0TG9_W0I

My point was that Chicago Screws work very well with horse tack. I would never consider using rivets of any kind in anything than can contact our horses. Think same might be true for a dogs collar? All you need is a leather punch and a screwdriver.

 

[Hiltz]

I would take it to a shoe repair shop since you only have one project. (if they are still around in your area) They would be able to properly rivet your item. I would think the cost would be minimal.

 

[k0ua]

My point was that Chicago Screws work very well with horse tack. I would never consider using rivets of any kind in anything than can contact our horses. Think same might be true for a dogs collar? All you need is a leather punch and a screwdriver.

Leather rifle slings are often put together with Chicago screws also. They can be easily adjusted as the Chicago screw is re-usable and can easily be taken apart as you noted with just a screwdriver.

 

[Farmerjonathan]

I would at least recommend lok tite on the threads if a chicago screw is used. Generally name plates are something you want permanently attached. But yeah, they are a solution to the OP's problem.

 

[radioman]

I use pop rivets and here are my thoughts. They are elegant solutions for light duty work and poor replacement for bolts. I use aluminum rivets for gutter work and it looks great to me. Stainless steel is great for interior sheetmetal work that is not used for weight. The holes must be straight, and right length used. googling rivets will help. I would not however use the rivets that you use a pull type mechanism for a dog tag. Its not strong enough esp. with aluminum rivets. You need to get steel or brass or copper type that uses a punch and hammer to round over the large size rivets , not the mechanical rivets for the dog tags.

In lowes they have the copper rivets you can get and you can use a ball peen hammer on your vise anvil to make an ugly rivet, but it works. If you did it right, you can get a nice looking rivets with experience and they are strong enough for dog tags.

 

[jaotguy]

drilling the end of a #2 grade bolt will give you the mushroom dome end on the ends of the brass/copper rivets...

 

[jaotguy]

or use the furniture leg securing fasteners with 2 small tangs to lock them in place with a regular flat head screw... file the excess thread flush with the end of the fastener.

 

[DJ54]

I'd second the Chicago Screws, although you will probably need to drill out the dog tag large enough to accept the one side.

And yes, they will occasionally undo themselves. But, instead of loc-tite, an ex-gf/horse person told me to use clear fingernail polish on the threads, to keep them from coming apart. I told her I didn't use clear.... Or, any other color for that matter. Got a good laugh out of her, and offered to buy her a new bottle, for a partial one she had.

 

[bandaidmd]

Like others have already said the rivets for leather and such are made to be peened over and are not "pop" rivets.
They make a pop rivet thats made to cover a variety of thicknesses that's really handy to have around the 2 most common diameters are 1/8 and 3/16 " Any rivet other than the multi grip should really be sized to the thickness of what your working on. Also pay attention to what you buy, a lot of alum bodied rivets will have a steel pin which helps up pull up tighter but it leaves behind a little steel ball that will rust.